ARareBreed
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Yeah, my yard has a lot of 97+ Cherokees though. Not sure off the top of my head if the cruise servo & cable parts interchange.
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I'm looking for the cruise control servo that gets mounted to the passenger fender. I'll also need the cable and fender mount. Anyone have this?
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I'd like to know the durability of this stuff too. I had a friend suggest it rather than a 500 dollar line-x job.
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My hazards blink, but do not stay on long enough for the filaments to illuminate. I think it may be my flasher module. Are the turn signal flasher and hazard flasher different parts, or are the interchangeable? -
Third brake light/cargo light
ARareBreed replied to Dzimm's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
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I think the solution for adding an additional brake switch for the clutch to turn off the cruise is this: 1. Cut either the YL/RD or DB/RD wire on the existing brake switch. Image Not Found 2. Add the brake switch (see attached link) in series to the cut wire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Z1NEUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. Connect the wire ends to the normally open side of the brake switch (the brake switch has 4 contacts, one side is normally open and the other is normally closed) Can anyone agree with this? This will allow the cruise to shut off when the clutch is pressed OR the brake pedal is pressed.
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I have a wiring diagram of the brake switch for my 91, I'll post the picture of it when I get home tonight. I have a hunch on which wires to tap into for the switch I might get for the clutch. see below. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161102006220?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I don't understand what you're asking.
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I think I'm going to add a normally open generic brake switch and tap into the pins on the existing brake switch. I just have to figure out the wiring to ensure the brake lights do not illuminate when the clutch pedal is depressed. I believe there are wires from the existing brake switch solely to disengage cruise when the brake switch is depressed, I'll just tap into those!
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Sorry to bring back an old thread but I am installing cruise into my 91 4.0ho 5 speed. I got the stalk, cruise servo motor, cable and vacuum tube. My only concern is the clutch pedal.. Does anyone have any information on a clutch cut-off switch?
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The 36 tooth give me about a 2mph faster speed on my speedometer than I am actually going. I'm running 4.11 gears on 255/75/R17 Cooper S/T MAXX.
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I got the bracket only on the passenger side, have about 1,000 miles on the truck since the install and it hasn't given me any troubles.
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Just want to spread the word of Core Shifters of whom is selling a Hurst shifter setup for the AX15. It's advertised to reduce the throw by ~30%. I just got mine for $270. I know it's a bit much but it has awesome reviews, I cannot wait! I'll update the thread.
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You'll never find one, it's crazy rare. Do what I did, buy a high pinion for super cheap and re-gear. Then you'll know the gears are good. if you do find one, who knows what condition it'll be in anyways.
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I can't upload pictures on posts, but that's exactly what I did. I tied a tow strap to an engine hoist on one of my wheel spokes and lifted the front tire until the rear tire was lifting off the ground. I did this without any shocks and front sway bar links disconnected. I follow your logic though, that should be easy to do. Thanks.
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That's what the ride height measurement is in my original post.
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I'm measuring for shock length for my 5.5-6" lifted Comanche. I used an engine hoist to lift off the front tire. I'm interested in the Fox 2.0 shocks, the part numbers I think will work are below. My Measurements: Front Compressed 20.75" Front Ride Height 23.75" Front Extended 27" Rear Compressed 19.75" Rear Ride height 22.75" Rear Extended 23.75" Front 985-24-132 Extended 29.55" - Collapsed 18.45" - Stroke 11.1" Rear 980-24-644 Extended 28.85" - Collapsed 17.75" - Stroke 11.1" The compressed and extended dimensions will fit fine, I'm worried about ride height since I do not know the shock body length, is that something I should be worried about? Let me know what yall think!
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My stock downpipe is 2" and the tail is 2.25". I'd like to go with 2.5" the whole way. I was thinking if maybe a turn down pipe immediately after the muffler..
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What is everyone running for exhaust, I'm rebuilding it from down pipe to exhaust tip. I'd like to stay with 2.5" the whole way. What are you guys running for cat and muffler? Not too loud, but throaty for sure.
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This question is for seasoned vets. I have a Comanche with 5.5" lift, HP Dana30, jks2001 quick disconnects and currie 9701 steering system and clayton long arms and stock pitman arm. My caster is dialed in, wheels are properly centered in the wheel well and when turning right the center tre hits the passenger sway bar mount. I found this, see link below.... http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Su...n-p-21291.html I like this setup, its obvious I need to brush up on my welding. The real question is, since I have adjustable sway bar links do I need to do this on both sides of the axle? The driver side is fine with the stock mount off the axle. Is it okay if the links are different lengths?
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I'm redoing the perches and shock mounts, the pinion angle is off anyway. I also am putting in poly bushings in the shackles and leaf eyes. We'll see if measuring twice and cutting once works this the second time around...
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The pinion is offset to one side, that I know. But that still doesn't explain why the entire axle is offset to one side if the perches are the same distance from perch center eye to WMS.
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This jeep is completely un manipulated and it has not been in any frame bending accidents. I got new poly leaf/shackle bushings and we'll see if that changes anything.
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Short and too the point... My perches are even from wms to center eye on each side and the distance between the perches is 41.6" where factory is 42" (Preload from difference in measurements causing the problem?). But when I measure down from the frame towards the axle with a straight edge the axle is off by more than 1/2" towards the driver side... I do not understand why!! When I measure from hub center to the bottom of the fender I get dead even amounts of lift on each side. I'm almost at the point of cutting off the perches and re-welding them where they'll be uneven on each side on the axle just so the axle sits even with respect to the frame. Suggestions? I'm at a loss.