rearview

How do you get the CPS in? I have to undo the tranny cross member and drop the tail of the trans to get at the bolts

putting truck together after a year and forgot where the vent tubes from the manual tranny/ transfer case go. Seem to remember they bolted onto the bell housing somewhere on the passenger side but the bracket is bent and my memory short. Any photos out there?

Did you check the adjustment on the flux capacitor? You can pick one up at the parts store pretty cheap. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EB00/121G.oap

never mind, was going to say ballast resistor Have you always run it with the exhaust leak?

As good as your monitors settings http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?manuf=AMC&year=1987&con=my&page=1&rows=50&size=large

I bought one from NAPA. Think theirs is Timkin related Just be sure you get the internal slave. Had 320k on mine when it went. Clutch was still good but I changed it and the pressure plate. Did the line and clutch master at the same time. Keeps dirt out of new bearings.

Finally got around to dropping the motor into the truck. Found out using the head bolts with the studs puts the motor at an angle that adds an extra step of rotating the engine towards the drivers side. A punch centered the holes to start bolts to attach the engine to bell housing. Another note, attach chain back a stud from ends, otherwise you hit the fire wall and can't get the angle on the dangle to line the spline. Spent 4 hours fighting with the motor trying to line it up. Finally got mad at it, yanked it back out and rechecked my clutch with the dowel. Looked good. So I set the engine back in the engine bay, lined it up with the spline and went inside to take a leak. Came back out, pushed engine to the right and it fell into the spline. I thought , you turkey,, you could have done that 4 hours ago. Got the new motor mounts in, folded up the cherry picker and noticed the engine sits high. Like above the hood level. I love my Comanche, it has a sense of humor. .

I waited until the head come off in a rebuild.

One of those known jeep defects. I ran mine for 20 years without the stud . It tighens the exhaust side, so you won't find a vacum issue, Easy to get out once you have a direct straight line access to the broken stud. Not machine grade metal.

The dipstick ground is the bolt that mounts the dipstick tube to the engine block. Follow the oil tube to a two sided bolt.

Thank you for the answers. Decided to put a petcock in the block to make it easier to drain the system in the bi annual antifreeze change. Putting one up on the thermostat housing too, just in case it might get the damn air bubble.

So the rear threaded hole, in the same line as the knock sender, is an empty hole?

Think the coolant temp is on the head in the drivers rear side. You take it out hoping to get the air out of the coolant. Mine is an 87/88 renix. Getting ready to drop the motor back in but it is easier to fix my errors outside on the stand thean in the engine bay. I always seem to do some things 2 or 3 times.

nice clean engine you have. I was looking for the stuff in the shadows, underneath the manifolds, Two sensors down there,Trying to see if one went under the exhaust downtube.the other iin the front access hole with a power connector that attaches like the injectors .. I seem to have a hole that looks like it goes into a jacket just above the oil pan on the rear. FSM has the lines and numbers hard to read and the book does not discuss these two sensors.

Is there a page here that has detailed engine photos?

I think Leer still has the molds but you have to special order and spend some money.

My thinking is you are looking for the least amount of detergents. You need percentages in the teens for both zinc and phosphorus. The phosphorus is the component that provides the early protection in the hardening process. Everyone has their favorite brand name. Some prefer the Brad Penn Kendall green oil, some like the fancy names with the dyes to color the product, and some like just plain old run of the mill, brand name, Penzoil , mineral based racing oils, The key is the percentages of zinc and importantly phosphorus content.

The oil filter can be assembled so the filter screws from the top, or in from the bottom. Can not remember the position and the photos don't give me the clue.

Up or down on an 87/88 4,0 It is easier to assemble the extension for the oil filter while out of the truck. Is there any damage/clearance problems with the swinging iron on the install. .

So I open the felpro 260 1424 box and I am seeing cork gasket with neo/rubber on the ends of the oil pan. Am I going to be better of buying the one piece gasket or will cork work?

cool thanks, need to figure the bolt pattern in the timing chain cover also. 2 months of machine work and no time to rebuild makes the memory bad.

The ever famous 2.8 leaker engine.

Now wait a minute. Yours is shiny and mine is all metal color. That a powder coat? You went with AMC blue? Allen screws too/ nice touch. This means I have to hit the band with some fancy paint. Distributor is out already. It is a new oil pump. Why I am thinking a heavy grease to keep gears lubed.

88 4.0 with 12\87 build date. Been a few months since the engine was tore down. Can't remember where the metal band I took off of the rear of the oil pan went. Is it on top of the pan or under the pan? Also whats the normal routine on the one piece gasket. Permatex? Crazy glue? or bare nekkid gasket to metal install? Priming the oil pump with white grease. Any thoughts?