dj5

You searched for VIN : 1J7FT66L5KL415576 This vehicle's data: Country of Manufacture United States Manufacturer Jeep Corporation Powertrain 4-speed automatic, floor gear shift, Select-Trac/ 4 W/D Body Type Jeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 7.0 foot bed, 120 inch wheel base Assembly Plant Toledo South Plant, Ohio, USA Engine 4.0L Model Year 1989 Read more: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/vin.php#ixzz3OpCsP9os and I got: 1989 Jeep Comanche 2dr Eliminator Short Bed VIN: 1J7FT66L5KL415576 Summary Style & Trim Equipment Colors Tech Specs Narrow Down By Style 2dr Eliminator Short Bed General Information MFR model code MJTS61 Body type: Pass Doors: 0 Alternative name: Alternative body: Drivetrain: Original Pricing MSRP $7,757.00 Invoice $7,359.01 Destination Charge $435.00 Engine & Powertrain Type Straight 6 Cylinder Engine Displacement L/CI 4.0/242 Fuel Type Gasoline Fuel Horsepower @ Fuel Economy 0.0 City / 0.0 Highway Fuel Capacity 0.0 Net Torque @ Tech Specs Manufactured By United States Jeep Truck Style & Trim » says eliminator when I looked it up so maybe the column shifter and dummy lights were options the purchaser wanted from factory?

thanks ftpercecracker1 I think I have your number in my messages already, ill shoot you over a text when I'm off work :bowdown:

it works but will flake off as the rust gets worse beneath it I sprayed a $%&@ ton of that stuff on my dj5 on my floor boards and a lot of it flaked off so I ended up sanding it back off and primer then truck bed liner

looks to me like truck maybe didn't have carpet so they put down a paper mat of some sort and the rust/moisture turned it into paper-Mache then covered with a carpet

If there is anybody in southwest Florida that wants to help out a fellow club member, let me know, ill pay for your gas and whatever you want for time...pizza, beer, cash... u name it. would rather help a club member put money in their rig than a mechanic in his pocket. 89 swb eliminator 4.0 needs electrical work... I went to fire it up and it cranked for a second, stopped cranking and puffed smoke from the steering column. I assume a positive wire grounded out melting or shorting something. I'm nowhere near being an electrician so if anybody wants to help that is near by fort Myers, FL 33916, it is greatly appreciated. I'm not sure if this issue relates but when this happened, I got it to fire up and when it did I noticed my oil pressure gauge now reads 20 even with WOT and drops to 0 every time I press the clutch, and when I release it goes back to 20... probably unrelated but my dash lights as well as floor lights work when they want to and getting no power to pillar light sockets. as you can tell I have some electrical demons... If anyone wants to make a trip and have a day on it I can provide what I can for you, if not I'm going to end up taking it to an electrical shop. Thanks for looking . :MJ 2: .

where could I buy the plate to block it off?

nobody knows?

sorry if this is a stupid question but I was always told there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid answers so here ya go. which hoses or lines should I plug up to delete my egr? I want to make sure I get em all :D pics as well please 4.0 renix thanks in advance ps. off topic but anyone know best place to mount a reservoir tank??? I seem to not have much room under my hood.

Ended up needing a breather cap and that somehow stopped the leak...must've had too much pressure in engine. well all seems well for now . :MJ 1: .

okay at least i now know its not supposed to be hooked to anything, i will just zip tie it higher thanks

but it doesnt actually hook up to the engine then? it just sits with the hose open to the air?

where should i hook it up in the engine?

what is this and where does it go? should i hook it up, plug it up or leave it be?

I appreciate the input trust me I know your all here to help that's why I'm here :thumbsup: I am going to send him a link to this page and let him see all the comments Thanks guys

thanks everyone. I got a buddy who is a mechanic who said he would do it for $250 plus parts ($14). he said he has to remove the tranny, I told him from what people were saying it didn't seem that way but he wants to make sure it has a good seal. maybe one day (hopefully not) when my xj rms goes out I can do that seal myself :wrench: and save $235 it is definitely the rms tho, has brand new valve cover gasket and I can see it leaking straight from it, it just blows my mind because the PO just rebuilt and installed this engine and he even left the old one in the bed. if he went through the trouble of replacing the engine, you would think that seal should be good :grrrr: but anyways hopefully it should be done when he gets a chance to get to it in a day or so and hopefully all is good, will update. on to the next problem of why my temp gauge reads 155 right at start up when cold even after replacing radiator and temperature sending unit and still can't get my electric fan to turn on (it does when hotwired) even with a new relay and my tach idles under 0 still after 2nd cluster (temp issue was same on both clusters) :oops:

I just swapped in my new radiator and while getting the coolant in the engine realized there was an oil leak, took a look...its my rear main seal. I lost 2 quarts in a matter of 30 miles and its burning on my exhaust. I'm not competent enough to do this type of thing. would about should I be looking at in costs reasonably to get this fixed?

:jump: :thumbsup: :banana:

lowes will cut plexiglass to size and you can silicone that in...ive done it for windows that dogs have broke from jumping on and barking at people and they can't break the plexi, it just flexes

best of luck to ya :crossfingers: I don't know what I would do if one of my vehicles was stolen.

:rock on: . :MJ 1: .

when vehicle is off, should tach sit at 0? mine sits under...thinking maybe that's it considering my xj sits at 0 when off but my xj is not renix

DJ is dispatcher jeep

:agree:

by the way, also doing a closed to open cooling system swap at the same time, only reason is because old radiator is clogged

I don't know much of the seller or the product but while searching for a new radiator I found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-BRAND-NEW-Aluminum-Radiator-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-2-5-4-0-/170857355687 its $65 shipped. I just purchased because I figured can't go wrong with a 2 row radiator for $65 with a lifetime warranty just curious if anybody has any experience/opinions with this product When I get to installing (delivery will be on or before 11/24), I will let everyone know how it went for anybody in the future looking for a replacement radiator as if it is a good radiator, its a damn good price too.