teamsmith

26 bids with 6 days to go. Will be interesting to watch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Base-Base-Truck-4-0L-4X4-manual-trans-PS-PB-A-C-/201168014336?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ed68c4c00&item=201168014336&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

http://dayton.es.craigslist.org/cto/4653987542.html How can it be leaking gas from the filler neck? Assuming the neck is bad, it's only gonna leak when you fill it up.

Thanks. Although, it's not 100% depressurized. It was pushing pretty hard against the plug as I screwed it back in. I'm sure the pressure is very low but there's a chance it could have pushed all the free air out that was swirling around and causing the air bubbles in the sight glass. This still doesn't solve my problem if indeed the switch is bad.

Quick Update. I took a break from wrestling with my brake upgrade to play with the A/C. I read only Jeepforum that the low pressure cycling switch is attached to the accumulator via a schrader valve and that I should be able to unscrew it and see if the switch is stuck 'closed'. Ignorantly, I unscrewed it. For me, there was no schrader valve. The force of the discharging accumulator blew the switch out of my hand and the howling sound briefly knocked out my hearing. Luckily, I was able to grab the switch and screw it back in against the force of the still discharging accumulator. Does this mean that the schrader valve might be stuck open on the accumulator (I didn't take the opportunity to stick my head in there and look while all the refrigerant was blowing out) or does my '89 system maybe work differently than what they were talking about on JF? If my switch is bad I don't see how I can replace it without completely evacuating my system. I may have already screwed the pooch by letting too much juice out anyway. My current plan of action is to try and recharge the system and waste another ~$30, then rent some manifold gauges to see what pressures I'm actually seeing. the problem with that plan is that it may tell me that I indeed have a bad low pressure cycling switch and apparently the only way to change it is to discharge the system. Any thoughts from the CC wizards, apart from 'take it to an A/C repair shop'?

thanks blue88. gauge shows pressure while filling but drops to zero when I release button. I need to get both low and high read with some actual manifold gauges. Don't know if A/C was added after the fact. I read the diagnostic page (thanks) and the only item relevant is that my sight glass has a lot of bubbles, indicating moisture. However, since the outlet air is ice cold, the system is generally working. I just need to figure out how to get the compressor to cycle off. I'm staring at the wiring diagram trying to figure out how the low pressure switch gets power when it decides to come on. it looks like the in-cabin selector switch is supposed to go to the clutch relay to tell it to send power to the low pressure switch which then decides to send power to the compressor if it needs to come on but it looks like I'm shortcutting all of it by just sending power to the switch without going through a relay circuit.

So last week I decided to tackle the non-functioning A/C system in my '89. It has been converted to R134 per the fittings and official looking sticker on the fan housing. I may have two separate issues. I used a product from Advanced called Interdynamics EZ Chill R134a with a gauge and hose. It was 18oz. As I began to fill, the compressor kicked on and stayed on, even after I emptied the 18oz. I saw the little bubbles swirling around through the sight glass in the accumulator as well. However, per the cheap gauge, the low pressure line still showed zero pressure (it shows ~30-50psi while filling but drops to zero when I let off the button). I read that the system takes 24oz so I bought another bottle, 12oz this time. I nearly emptied this bottle as well, but the gauge still showed no pressure. Given no evidence of backpressure, I assumed I must have a leak in the expansion valve or evap and I have refrigerant filling up a body panel somewhere. However, when I reached in to turn the truck back off, I felt icebox cold air blowing in through the vents. So the system works. 1st problem: no pressure reported: Bad gauge? Second problem: the compressor will not cycle off. I have to pull the plug out of the low pressure switch to cut power to the compressor. Possible third problem? I'm not sure the pressure switch plug is wired properly. I have a wire running from the stud on the starter relay, straight into the pressure switch plug, then back out straight to the compressor. I thought there might be a clutch relay involved somewhere between the power and the pressure switch. For now, I'm leaving the A/C disconnected for fear of burning up something, plus it makes the belts squeal like a pig when I start it up with the compressor clutch engaged. I'm not done poking around but thought I would tap into the CC mothership for any wisdom while I ponder. If the pressure is indeed too low, it could be causing the compressor to keep spinning. If I put in too much refrigerant (due to bad gauge) it might also be forcing the compressor to keep spinning. Maybe the low pressure switch (clutch cycling switch) is stuck open (closed circuit) and needs to be replaced. - Even with the truck off, as soon as I connect the low pressure switch plug to the switch the clutch coil magnetizes, almost like it is stuck open (or electrically closed). I think my first move might be to try a different gauge, but I would like to get some feedback on the wiring to make sure it is indeed wired properly.

Thanks. That is good info. I will drive it for a while and see how it goes. If I run out of things to do one day I may let a little out and add the STP treatment to see if that helps.

I used the Mobil 1 75w-90. What would you recommend? From your responses I believe I'm probably ok for a while. It's a good thing because I just got a line on an '02 WJ booster/MC for $75 so that will be the project for this weekend. I will be on the look out for a low mileage 94+ XJ to rob an AX15+bell housing+clutch+TC.

Thanks guys. I wondered if just staying out of third would prolong the life; although it seems that 3rd is the gear I need most often for my driving. So, since there is no grinding or popping out of gear I'm probably good for a while? Thanks again.

Hello everyone. I finally got my MJ on the road and have put about 400 miles on it. When first driven (first 2-3 miles), I noticed the transmission whined badly in 1st and 2nd. I parked it and changed the gear oil with Mobil 1 GL-5. Now it only whines in 3rd and gets louder with the RPMs, although still not as loud as it did when I first took it out. It seems to stay in gear and generally behave but does like to cry about it in 3rd. I realize that an AX-15 swap is in my future and have read a variety of threads on that subject. My question here relates to the remaining life of the BA10/5. Do you reckon it will start to degrade quickly, like in the next couple hundred miles? Or maybe it will last a few thousand miles? It is stock height with 30x9 tires. I do not plan on taking it off road. Any thoughts? Basically, I'm trying to prioritize the budget and my project time. If I have a couple thousand miles I would like to focus my immediate attention on the inadequate brakes (it has new pads/rotors/front hoses but does not like to stop) and do the brake booster upgrade. Thank you for any advice.

thanks guys. Order placed. Now to tackle the next issue.

So I guess this is what you're talking about? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/shift-boot-bezel-retainer-53000056ab.html Good lord they want a lot of money for it.

I imagine the plastic base is what I am missing. It's just the rubber flopping around with no way to engage the base.

Hey guys, I have a 5 spd 4WD and just put in a mini- console where there previously was none. My problem is that the boot doesn't have a place to secure to the console. It just kind of flops around and gets bound up. What am I missing?

I'm in TN as well and I'm planning to finally register my truck on Friday and was debating this same thing. It's an '89 which puts at 25 years old but, unless I'm misremembering, I believe I saw the build date on the door sticker as late 1988. Do you reckon they'd let that pass as being 'more than 25 years old? Also, are you saying I don't have to pass emissions if I register it as antique?

Thanks for all the advice. We finally got around to installing the carpeting this weekend. With the mass backing it's like trying to wrestle an octopus back into its hole. The rust was scraped off floor first, then applied a paint that bonded to the rusted spots. For others planning to use the carpet from stock interiors; I cut 2.5" off the top (what goes in behind the pedals) and that would put the heel pad and molded sections in their correct spots. It was difficult getting the shift and Tcase lever lined up but it all worked out and the mini-console covers all the hacking nicely.

My '89 Pioneer restoration is nearly complete. It spent way too long at the frame shop getting pulled and then I had to get the rocker panels replaced: Using the good old boy network is cheap but slow. So now I need the following to finish it off: passenger door mirror: the one that has the adjustment stem that goes through the window passenger exterior window trim: the rubber is all cracked on mine gutter rail caps: the things that snap on the top of the rain gutters driver door threshold trim; that piece that screws on top of the rocker panel front wheel well splash liners, left and right: the rubber cowls that goes up in the wheel well to keep mud from getting into the engine compartment/header panel. Mine crumbled like black feta cheese when I removed it. I'm also gonna need a radio, or something, but that will come later.

Can you tell me what is involved in putting in LED headlights? Would I need a new harness for an '89 MJ? new housing?

I miscounted the number of holes. My mistake

I think I have a set of what you're looking for. I only have a pic of them on my truck (below). I ended up getting a tire/wheel combo from a guy so these are now sitting in my driveway. I had thought about swapping them back on to keep the authentic look but I'm getting a little overwhelmed finishing the restore process. Also, I'm within driving distance so make me an offer.

to get them under the clear coat, I'd need them in the next week or so. However, I've come to terms with the fact that's not realistic. Therefore, I am not in a hurry, but the sooner the better

I never heard back from prop-Kulture. I left a couple of voicemails and sent a couple of emails. I would be interested in having a set made if you want to share in the setup.

Pm sent. Do you know what my color is called? I'm trying to pick the carpet color from stock interiors. Powder blue?

It has a blue interior but I would take about anything, except maybe not red. Below is the best picture I have of the interior right now. Pardon the mess. Grey, grey/blue, black, etc. would all be great.

My MJ has a bare floor with only the manual shifter and boot along with the little metal brackets that I assume mount to the surround. I'm planning to add carpet and would like to get a gear shift surround to finish it off. It currently has a bench seat so I'd just need the little surround. Eventually, I plan to swap to buckets+ mini console so if anyone has that it would be nice to do it all at once. Thanks, Tim