Dando

Can’t thank you enough eagle. Awesome off to search for a speedo cable now

I sorry for being a real old thread back to life but it is my own thread and I still need some help with the same problem. It’s been another 2 years and I still have an non functional speedo. So so far we have determined I have a cluster from most likely an 84-85XJ. So that being said what do I need to make this clusters speedo work for me? I literally have nothing parts wise other than the cluster (been installed for years) and the np231 pulled off my old 95xj (the np231 still has the electric speedo stuff from the 95xj installed to block off the hole). Any help? I really want to get this clusters speedo working but will abandon the cluster for one that’s easier to work with if needed. Just want it working again as I finally have the truck in a state the wife can drive it unaccompanied and she wants the speedo working before she tries that. Thanks

I don’t want to question you on this one, but are you certain the shift cable going from my interior shifter, out the trans tunnel, and back to the trans is over 7ft long? The available option I keep seeing for this is 57”

I need one, mine broke due to being overheated near the exhaust. No xjs in nearby Junkyard or that would be my easy way of handling this. I can’t get a straight answer on this, what is the correct length for a floor shift cable for an aw4?

Found the photo I was thinking of. Photo originally posted by JeepcoMJ back in 2014 From this thread:

I just built a simple wooden frame that sits in My bed to hold my canoe, if you search “canoe rack” on here there are some threads from a few years ago, one pic shows an mj with what looks like a small (maybe Xj cross bars) on the roof of an mj holding at least one kayak

It’s a black river canoe, roughly 18-19’. Would love to trade it eventually for a 12-14’ just for the easier one man handling. Sanded it and painted it this afternoon.

Built a quick wooden rack to haul my canoe project to my place from my dads place. Worked great

Bolts: starter upper - 10mm x 1.5 x 25mm starter lower - 3/8” x 16 x 1.5” Bellhousing uppers - 3/8” x 16 x 1 7/8” bellhousing lowers - 7/16” x 14 x 3 1/8”

With mine I’ve always, removed the whole cap, marked the rotor relative to the distributor housing, marked the distributor body relative to the block, then there is one bolt that holds down the distributor locating tab, remove it and lift distributor out.

Just marker the distributor for alignment when putting the distributor back in and it’s a pretty straight forward job. Just important to get the distributor back and and indexed properly when reinstalling. It’s easier than it sounds.

As a heads up the aw4 was different between the 4wd and 2wd version

Amazing, thanks. I knew they were two different bolts but couldn’t get a concrete answer of which went in the top/bottom. Thanks so much. Off to the hardware store

I was driving on the highway yesterday and I’ve been trying to sort out some front end vibrations at speed. Well long story short the muffler (no cat/muffler right near crossmember) vibrates loose and fell off, then when I got home my starter had lost the top bolt and the bottom one was quite loose. What is the top bolts size so I can source a replacement? Also will thread locker stop these bolts from backing out as I continue to work out my vibration issues?

So As others pointed out the lug wrench works just fine. Just tried it to be sure. Works fine for me, don’t use the stock jack anymore anyways. One less piece to keep behind the seat. Thanks everyone

So I’ve searched the forum and can’t find a close up. Can anyone post a good close up of the stock tool used to work the spare tire winch? Specifically a few close ups of the end that engages the winch. Somehow over the winter I have lost mine. Anyways I plan to just take a piece of round bar I have and grind it to the shape I need and adapt it to fit my cordless impact.

*UPDATE* as of today I have a running/driving Comanche again. Thanks to a member here, I got a stock flexplate shipped to me. Spent the day today removing the trans and putting in the flexplate. Started right up and runs great. Thanks everyone.

Thanks I’ll search it out, I did get a timing light on it and it’s jumping all over the place

This is exactly what it seems like. Can you explain what I would have to do to try to slot the cps? My truck hasn’t been driven in over two months now and it’s killing me

Thank you, that explanation of why the timing light will help was what I needed help with understanding. I've already swapped my map sensor with a known good one earlier today, with no response. Reached out to my local jeep club to see if someone has a timing light I can use.

I can work on getting ahold of one. Still curious what this will tell me. It ran before the flexplate broke and now it won't run properly. If the timing is not adjustable I guess I don't see how it could just suddenly be off (need to be explained) and if it's off how could I fix that if yet again it's not adjustable. Would the timing light just confirm if the flexplate is my issue? And if so, how?

I did not as I don't own one. What would this tell me though that checking my distributor doesn't?

No Change with different MAP sensor. I worked my way through thread after thread of broken image links (thanks photo bucket) to finally find a comparison image from someone that has had an issue before. The cps ring on his image is about an inch or so off from the proper indexing, he even compared different aftermarket suppliers to see and they all had that same problem. I am going to try to source down a stock flex plate, the worst part is i can't even compare a new one to my stock unit because the center is completely separated. What a bummer. I called the manufacturer ATP, and when speaking with them they claim to have not a single complaint about this part, claiming i am the first to ever have an issue like this. Bigger bummer. Oh well, i guess i will change the cps just to see if it makes a difference (even though it starts and runs currently) before i rip the trans out again. Anyone have a stock flex plate? (already made a classified post)