USAFAGumby

161 lb-ft @ 1869rpm and 105Hp @ 3673rpm. I was hesitant to run it past 100mph so maybe it had some more HP to give. The graph was going down at that point however so I believe it to be an accurate peak. Any predictions for final numbers after the throttle body, intake, and fuel injectors are installed? I'm guessing a 10-15Hp gain.

Flow bench analysis of the 60mm bored renix throttle body is done. Overall 20% improvement in CFM at a set pressure and flow. 222cfm for the 53mm to 281cfm for the 60mm. I can feel it is more responsive and could possibly have more HP in the top end but little change to torque I think. TPS adjustment was a pain. Now the truck idles around 200rpm and almost stalls when let letting the clutch in a coasting at freeway speeds. Anyone else have this problem with a bored TB? Picture below is the 60mm mocked up on the bench. Yellow tacky tape closed off idle air and MAP inputs. Also, stock dyno run!! Test was 4th gear, 40mph-80pmh. We ended up going to 100mph in the final test run because HP was still climbing at 80pmh. Curves to come soon!

Honestly haven't looked into it since those lights burnt out a while back. I'd be willing to be whitegauges.net would have the right bulb, but I don't know which one.

Came from whitegauges.net They sell as a sticker set and you can by the LEDs also. Super easy install, but they won't dim like they said on the site.

Not sure. It was pulled from a junk yard and there are no markings or numbers at all on it. But thanks! Also, the weld from the clutch gave out in traffic today which was fun. Quick reweld and we are back on the road. Here is a pic from the shooting range the other day. Had fun getting down and back out of that ravine . :MJ 1: .

So, I'm in an automotive class this semester. Final project is do something to your car to increase performance and measure it. I am going with: 60mm bored throttle body from strokedjeep.com Rock It Parts cone air intake and short tube kit Rebuilt Dodge Neon fuel injectors ***Edit: Rock it parts air intake is not made anymore. I went with the spectre cowl CAI instead*** I will dyno before and after swap, as well as do flow bench analysis for pressure drops with both intake set ups. Just bought all the parts today, pretty excited!

Been working on a bunch of other projects lately. Mainly the wagon keeps over heating and started the restoration work. Thought I'd throw up a picture of my truck being a truck still! Due for oil change soon going with Castrol Full Syn 10w30. Creeping up on 200,000mi too!

Finally had time to start on the wagon. Pulled the carpet and minor rust on the floors and trunk deck. Headliner pulled and ground all the surface rust away to prep for por15 and headliner soon. Took for ever and my arms are killing me...... Starting to debate the color I want to paint it again. This time I'm thinking deep cherry red lower, then matte black from pillars up to include roof and hood, then black out all the chrome (keep the shark mouth of course). Any tips on spray painting a car? Also, formula car testing is heavy underway. Trying a new pneumatic shifter system and tuning the engine. Muffler blew out and yes that is me nearly catching fire :thumbsup:

Variety is always nice! I keep the whites with road tires for my cross country trips and to hold that classic look. I agree though, I like the aggressive look more right now!

First day out towing the formula car! Also put the black steelies on again. Formula car wouldn't start, think it had a fried ECU.

I agree here. While all the comments about it fading and pitting are true (I had mine on a full year before re-coating it) It is durable, easy to apply on your own and cheap. Hopefully this thread will let someone know which product works for them!

I have used herculiner in the cab bed and body lines. The other users are right about it's roughness and durability. With the proper prep and coats mine has held up pretty well. For the price and simplicity of the install you can't beat it!

Super easy to use. I rolled it on over the old liner and it holds up good so far. If it is over clean paint you have to scuff it and it may take a few coats.

So it happened again, I slapped the starter relay several times and it cranked right up. At least I know my problem now. Thanks!! Also finally got around to herculining the bed, bed rails, and body line. Turned out great as it always does. Also put it the visor I got from Firemandave334, it's not a Lund, but it is pretty cool.

So truck wouldn't crank. We rolled it off and it has had several good starts since but here are the symptoms. Won't jump start, battery has good power, clank during starting when it does start. New starter (6 months old) Duralast re manufactured. Has had this happen once before about a month ago in CO. Any ideas where to start? I'm gonna do my own research too. Thanks!

Made the drive all the way to NC once again. That's 5 trips total now! No death wobble at all. I just washed and waxed it when I got home and finally figured out how to neatly collapse the topper. Here it is with my new tool box set up as well. Truck bed needs to be repainted and headlight buckets are next on the list!

I have one without the winch mount. I plan on mounting it behind the cross member. I love it! I think it is the best stock looking bumper out there. Came with sandwich style mounting plates which tie in really well.

After driving to alignment shop everything settled into place. Links bolted right up and new alignment finished it. Drove down the worst section of highway today and nothing! That was a lot of work......

A-man930 you were right. There is no more whine or clank with the new hubs. I left the shields off because they ended up breaking during removal this time. You can see new shocks, sway bar links, ball joints and hubs. I know I shouldn't let the caliper hang like that, it was already leaking then fell off the control arm it was resting on. I ended up getting two new soft lines to the fronts and bled the brakes. The track bar install was a pain. I placed the old and new next to each other and they appeared the same, however, when I installed the new it took about a half inch of shift to the drivers side to fit. The sway bar links ended up not lining up so I removed them. I think it may be way off center so I'm going to take it in for another alignment very soon. It did drive pretty well but there was some vibration in the wheel.

I like that color! I was thinking about doing the same thing and now that I see it I have to.

Installed the ball joints, sway bar links, and new shocks. I have a rhythmic scraping sound from the left wheel which I think is the rotor shield rubbing against something. It gets bad when turning left and goes away when turning right. Can I run without those shields? Will it cause misalignment of the hubs? The lower ball joints were pretty blown out when I removed them so I think that was the main cause of the wobble. Now I have a clunk back and forth when I turn sharply. I think It might be the worn hubs/bearings after beating them around. I have two new hub assemblies on the way as well as a track bar. Anything I should look for when I replace these items? thanks everyone!

It's an LTR450. Unfortunately we are not taking this car this year but I will be at the competition to watch and see how it all works. I'll keep a lookout for your car!

31hp and 25ft/lbs of tq. Pretty cool stuff. Also, oh yes, the toy is gonna tow the formula car.

Got this pick of the truck and the toy. The wagon has made three drives to and from Boulder CO (70mi) without any problems. Eats about a quart of oil every two trips. Also, formula car has been completed but still doesn't run smoothly. We are not going to competition this year due to other issues but it is pretty sweet!!

The wobble has gotten worse.....encountered it 4 times in a 70 mile drive. I no longer can wait to afford the lift kit so I got a new track bar, front shocks, sway bar links, and ball joints. Hopefully this and another alignment will fix it.