Blaine

so i need a pressure bottle of some sort can't just put the hoses runnning from t-stat and w/p into the heater core mine is steel tubing with crimped hoses as well

do i have to do this or can i just bypass that valve with the two hoses running into the core without putting a return bottle in?

i have the 4.0 closed system i take it is a rad, with no filler cap. and its on a 87 comanche, would that have to be converted to an open system? cuz on the 4.0 pic above i don't see any coolant bottle.

question, by removing the heater valve and running hoses straight into the core, you eliminate the over flow jug, usually if you overheat coolant will piss out of the jug. now that its gone where will the coolant come out if u were to overheat. J/W?

i would have to use rubber hose, this pic is not mine, its a reference picture of which line was broken

so after ten minutes my truck temp needle didnt go up, after a minute of driving it started to rise, sound like a t-stat that once it warms starts to function right, and doesnt fully close, cause if it was fully open it wouldnt warm up at all

would but i don't have the hose for it right at the moment

alright so there r two hoses going to the reservoir in the front bumper. one is the big hose which comes from the intake to supply the vacuum, the other is small and run into the pass. side firewall next to the purple line that runs the coolant regulator for the heater core, i assume that the one that controls where the air blows in my truck, cause its broken. this is not mine this is a ref. pic from the web. but this is the line that is broke its just further down the line next to my battery, the brighter colored line is the one that goes to the coolant regulator valve for the heater core. so is the broken line the one that controls where my heat blows?

if not anything else it could be?

how can u tell the diff. will they tell you? cuz if its the same as any part store i won't be paying dealer price for something i can get down the road for less, ive also herd of drilling two holes on each side if the t-stat, what does that do?

so the vac line that controls the selector switch for windshield to the floor or vents. where is that? and if the line popped off the ball that would stop it from working as well?

perfect, i did plan eliminating that control valve cause there were some days it was up to temp and only warm air was coming through and other days nice hot air. i was just reading about this mod yesterday and said yep that's getting thrown out, which sucks cuz i replaced this not to long ago with a junkyard one cuz mine was leaking, if i had known this i would have bypassed it then. could i pick up a mopar t-stat at autzone or is it from the dealership? and trust me wouldn't catch me doing that with her pots cuz it would def. be the end of me, found out the hard way once :thwak:

example: Today idling, heat off, it rose to temp (after a long while). turned heat on, temp went down but rose back to to running operation. now say its up to temp and i take off, the temp goes down to the line just above the 100 mark on my gauge. shouldnt it stay up to temp whether driving or sitting still? for the t-stat, to get the mopar one do u have to go to the dealership or would a place like autozone or carquest have one

inside cab or outside, and thats the one that changes where the air blows

planned on it, its been flushed once a long while ago and crud came out of it. but should my temp fall go down once it up to temp. obv. it will a little when the heat is on but what about going down the road.

i have a 195 in it. ive heard of brand new t-stat failing too, so does it sound like it never fully closes to let the coolent reach temp. another thing once it is up to temp. should it ever fall back down a little like when the heater get turned on or when i start going down the road?

1. where are the resistors located 2. I think it cold be vacuum leak cause at times i had to touch the throttle and u cold hear the doors move. so where should i check for the leaks

I heard some cardboard in front of the rad would help keep it up to temp while driving, just don't cover the portion where the fan is so it don't overheat while idling.

idling going down the road it won't go up to temp, prob. caused by the cold air being pushed through the radiator

lol true well mine def. took longer then 10 minutes,

my blower for the heat, it only runs on high, low doesn't work, and recently it won't switch off from my windshield. any suggestions?

87 Comanche 6 cyl 4.0 How long does it take for a jeep to warm up in 32 deg. weather? It seems to me that my truck is taking a long time to warm up. thinking it might be the thermostat but i replaced it not even six months ago. anything else might cause a slow warm up

yea def. not ur T-case if the front drive shaft is spinning, if its a split axle in the front the CAD is not working, easy fix. If it a solid axle well then u have some problems

:agree: also could be clogged radiator and/or hoses, blown head gasket. hard to tell without proper diagnosis. i know when my head gasket went i couldnt keep my truck running for 5 minutes either, started blowing out steam and coolant.

see something simple, exactly why i said tap on the starter to begin with, the brushes get crappy and stick and a little tapping freeing them enough to start the engine. That's what i did to see if my starter went bad and it was. all my truck did was click but as soon as i tapped on it it turned over.