jpnjim

I know the 150's used CJ frames, I think the 170's did too (longer CJ6 frames). These crack alot, even with just the CJ body on them, I don't know what they rated them to tow back then (the 170 was considered fairly stout, even available with duel rear wheels), but I would atleast look at boxing the frame, or swapping something else (maybe a 1976+ FSJ frame) if I was going to tow with it. It would suck to kill the originality by swapping frames (esp since you said this one looks good), but just I don't trust those old flexible CJ frames. Good luck with this build, and sorry if I'm a wet blanket. :cheers:

Oh, I like that . Till you hit the brakes, and t does a nose stand. ;) I'm a BIG fan of these, but if you're going to build one for trails, you almost have to start with the cab, and throw everything else away. :( And then you have to chop up what's left of the cab for tire clearance. :doh: I've seen a few nicely done ones, with modern power & drivetrain, where they kept the stock crack prone frame & other original parts, but I couldn't see using it for more than a very nice Sunday driver. :dunno:

Or adjust the steering stops on the knuckle. Just put a washer behind it. The only time I ever tried that here (New England), I swear I heard the rusted bolt laugh at me, just before it snapped. :doh: New England washer trick: hold the washer on the end of the bolt, and weld it to the head. :smart:

:fs1: :wall: Friggen Ebay :headpop: I 'ordered' power/heated 97-01 XJ Mirrors on 1/21/10 ("Buy It Now") http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... K:MEWNX:IT Took 5 days before they even shipped them out, Got them today, open the box, and pull out... A set of GRAND Cherokee Mirrors :rant: WTF, it's YOUR auction, can't you rear YOUR OWN FRIGGEN auction? :hateputers:

It took some winching to get there, but I finally pulled myself up on an obstacle that truly showed my mad flexing skilz... Then I fired up a super secret hydrolic ram setup to force my suspension even further: :smart:

I can tell you what the parts books say: 1986/87 Jeep Wagoneer / Cherokee / Comanche parts book dated 1/88 Page 27.10.6 53001 536 C 1986 4.10 Less locking differential (Trac-Lok) 53001 539 CC 1986 4.10 With Locking Differential (Trac-Lok) Page 27.15.6 83502 504 housing Page 27.25.1 (Non-Locking) & 27.25.5 (Locking) J8127 072 Gear set (only one set listed) Ratio not listed for J8127072, but a quick search shows they are 4.10's: http://www.wilsons4x4.com/parts_id.htm Page 27.30.5 53001262 axle shaft 53001524 axle shaft assembly The older parts book gets a little more interesting.... 1986 Jeep Wagoneer / Cherokee / Comanche parts book dated 3/86 actually lists both types of Metric Ton* axles (M20 & D44), but only the 4.09 ratio D44 (with, or without LSD). Also, they don't call it a D44, choosing to call it a "10 bolt" instead. I'm guessing they were planning to offer the "10 bolt" if M20 production got low, or maybe as a running change. Anyone ever find a D44 in an 86'? Other fun facts: The M20's 8.875" ring gear only uses 8 bolts to hold it to the carrier (like a D35, D44's use 10) The pinion gear is the same size as a D60's (bigger than a D44). The 29 spline axle shafts are bigger than an 8.25"s 29 spline shafts (8.25" shafts fit inside an M20 spider gear, but M20 shafts will not fit inside an 8.25" spider gear). Tho according to some sources, even our '1 piece' MJ axles, and the '1 piece' FSJ shafts are actually 2-pieces, welded together from the factory (instead of bolted together like earlier 2-piece shafts). (it has also been said 84-85 D35-7 9/16" axles are welded 2-piece shafts). Also, I know it has just been posted that the D44 brakes are different from the M20's, but according to the 86/87 Factory Parts Book, they are the same. 34.30.5 Brakes, Rear Drum... 1986 With AMC "Large" Axle 83502 387 (L) PLATE, Backing 83502 386 ® PLATE, Backing 52001 915 -2- DRUM, Brake 34.30.7 Brakes, Rear Drum... 1987 With Dana Model 44 Axle 83502 387 (L) PLATE, Backing 83502 386 ® PLATE, Backing 52001 915 -2- DRUM, Brake The brake shoes are also the same (83502 385), but all of the brake & e-brake hardware is different, could've just been a year to year upgrade thing tho :dunno: *FWIW, the parts book says "Metric Ton", and not Metric Tonne" :D

This is a pretty tough crowd, I was dead for a little while, and I don't think I'm the worst. ;)

Watch out for Pancreatitus. 'Joe' on another board got it, and I think he's still hospitalized (since last May). :(

In my opinion, I wouldn't see why they couldn't be interchanged. As long as they're both the one piece design, and are of the same WMS to WMS. But then again, that's an uneducated guess. AMC cars used 2-piece shafts (bolt together, like CJ's). I need to dig out a set of AMC shafts, and measure them. I'm thinking they were different lengths side to side, but I really can't remember. MJ M20 shafts are the same length for both sides.

Yeah, it was a 1986 MJ only thing. I have an AMC (71 Javelin/AMX), and it's Model 20 is the same width as XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ rear axles (Jeeps inherited the 'AMC wide body' axle width from AMC Eagles), and I've always wondered if the MJ one piece axleshafts were the same length/interchangeable with 'wide body' AMC cars. Probably not, but I was just curious, that's all. :nuts:

I was just poking around looking for replacement shafts for the 86' Metric Ton AMC Model 20. Custom shafts shouldn't be a problem, but I was just wondering if anyone ever came across the factory replacement? Both sides were the same length, and the factory part number for the shaft itself is(was): 53001 262 The entire assembly (w/ bearings, seal, retaining plate) is: 53001 524 Last listing: OEM Catalog Item Number MSRP Core Price 53001524 $199.08 $0.00 $149.31 SHAFT AXLE REAR AXLE This item is Discontinued. What are you guys running them planning on doing if you ever twist/break a factory shaft?

For the (relatively) small number of people on this board, seems like we have way more than our share of medical issues to go around. To the point where it's hard to keep up :ack: , So, for the sake of researching the possibility of a 'Curse of the Comanche' ;) & help those of us with horrible memories, post up what's wrong with you. Note: please skip :nuts: we're driving 20 year old, extinct trucks from an extinct manufacturer, being :nuts: is a given here. :cheers: Me: 41 years old, ICD after one unexplained V-fib, blind in one eye after vitrectomy, 31 years of diabetes (type 1)

MJ's: Past: 1989 2wd Pioneer 4.0L 5spd 3.07's Black/Grey bench seat, longbed (lifted it 4", 3.54's, w/31's but kept 2wd) 1988 2wd 4.0L 5spd 3.07's Red/Grey bench seat, shortbed (converted to 4wd, 4.56's, 60 rear, 3" to 7" lift ran 31's to 36's) Present: 1988 2wd 4.0L 5spd 3.07's Grey/Grey bench seat, shortbed (converted to 4wd, 4.56's, 60 rear, 4" to 6" lift 33-36's) 1989 2wd Pioneer 4.0L auto Black/Cordovan bench seat, shortbed (stock for now) ....and you didn't ask, but: Other Jeeps: Past: 1973 J4000 FSJ Pickup, Custom, 360/4v, T-18 4.10's D60 longbed (ran 31-32's) 1987 XJ 4x4 Laredo 4.0L 5spd 3.07's Grey/Cordovan (lifted 3-4", 3.73's, ran 31-32" tires) 1985 XJ 4x4 Pioneer 2.5L 3spd auto 3.73's Blue/Blue (registered it, but never drove it much) Present: 1996 ZJ, Laredo, 4.0L auto, 3.54's Black/Grey (lifted 2-3" ran 30-32's) 1998 XJ 4x4 Sport 4.0L auto 3.54's Black/Grey (lifted 4-5", ran 31-33" tires) + some parts Jeeps.

OEM Chrysler, or OEM Jeep? Jeep used the same wheels on the 2WD and 4WD models. Anything that fits one should fit the other. Minivan wheels, though, aren't the same. I wonder what kind of wheels they are too. When I put a set of Canyons (15x8" TJ wheels w/ the 30" tire package) on my 2wd ft axle (89' with real wheel bearings), the center caps popped off as I was tightening them. The dust cover sticks out too far to use center caps on these wheels, it makes sense if the later wheels interfere, since they had long since stopped using the full rotor/real wheel bearing style hub in 2wd Jeeps by then. Jim, what did the wheels look like? Might be a good idea to start working on a list of wheels that are not compatible with the full rotor style 2wd hubs. :dunno:

Quote for overnight shipping to 99802 please. ;)

I haven't done the chat room stuff myself, but I bet if the OP is having trouble figuring it out, someone could walk him through posting a "screen capture" of what he's looking at, then one of you chat guru's could explain based on the picture. FWIW, screen capture: (on this machine) Fn + Ins = Prt Sc (print screen). Then you open up a page in 'paint', right click "paste", and whatever was on your screen when you hit "print screen" shows up in the picture. Screen Capture: Image Not Found

:cheers:

I found your PB account, but your newest pic is: jimoshel/IM000144.jpg, looks like you were trying to link: IM000151.JPG (still on your PC). Once you upload it, copy the bottom link (IMG Code) listed next to the pic you want, in your Photobucket page. Paste that code directly in your signature, and the pic should show up.

It's just about Feb 1st, anyone else thinking of getting in on this? :wavey:

I'm still working through in my head what I want this one to look like when it's 'done', but if I go with aftermarket wheels, they will definitely be aluminum. I let a set of 5.9L wheels go by on CL the other day for $400, I really like them on the other MJ, I'm just not sure I'd like them on this one. :dunno: I've also had my eye out for a set of Rubicon Moabs, but I'm not sure if that's the direction I want either (since I'm keeping the old style sheetmetal). FWIW, there are now cheaper Moab wheel knockoffs out there: http://www.wheelsandcaps.com/w_selectio ... =ALY09047U They also make them in Black, but I didn't dig up a link to those.

Ah, adding gauges to a 92 that didn't come with them. :doh: Thanks for the clarification. :yes:

Fuel gauge should be backwards when switching from Renix to HO gauges.

New MJ looks great. :cheers: I guess you're addicted like the rest of us. :yes: That's a Renix 4.0L (see the 3 bolt intake flange on the throttle body), just looks like someone swapped on some later 4.0L parts (atleast the late model valve cover). Chrysler was in charge by 89 (took over in 87), but there still should be plenty of AMC symbols on an '89 (mine is covered with them). If you ever get the engine wet again, and it won't start, spray some WD-40 under the distributor cap (the WD is for 'water displacer'). One of my MJ's used to crap out after every water crossing, and had to get sprayed all the time, till I put on one of those 5.0L Ford rubber boots that wrap the distributor.

Surprised you guys are liking the Cragars. :yes: :cheers:

Because dollars to doughnuts they're made in china now 10 years ago I bought a set of ARE Baja's (the 5.25" bs 15x8's made for our Jeeps). Each box said "Made in the USA" on it, and each wheel had one of those tiny little oval shaped, gold "made in China" decals on it. They were inside the wheel, where you can't see it with the tire mounted (I bought the wheels bare, so I could mount my own tires). :fs1: Since then, I either: pay more, for made in USA stuff, or look for the absolute cheapest bottom line, so I'm not :rant: after paying top dollar for China crap. FWIW, later on I bought a set of American Eagle Baja copies, cheaper than the ARE's, polished better, and they really were made in the USA. :USAflag: