bradseals

id never leave it running!! someone could steal it !! this was back 2-3 years ago . .that brake got worse and worse and the fix was like you said (put it in gear). . unfortunately I haven't driven that truck in almost two years not but can't wait till the tires hit the blacktop here again sooooon!!

I have a 1991 jeep comanche sporTruck . the pedal will finally stay down after pressing between 10-15 times no matter how far I press it and will "pop" out of no where . . It has popped at several gas stations and in one incidence, led me on a wild chase to hop in and on the brakes before it would have collided with several cars and in another instance popped and damaged a gate at a friends house . .I say THIS NEEDS TO BE MADE RIGHT

is it possible you might be able to find a picture of the ones you have . .for color purposes ?

I had the same problem every now and again with my 88 pioneer . I think I wound up narrowing it down to the vacuum hose that comes off the brake booster . id check to see if that hose is sealed up tight . .it may help but them again it might not good luck

A question : do any of yall know if there are any companies out there that are doing remakes of the original decals of this truck . mine have to come off to paint eventually and I don't think the truck will be the same without them (I'm referring to the decal that says sporTruck and stretches all down the sides of the truck)

as she sits

there she is . .the one on the left getting the heart transplant (new motor )

haha I thought they looked better and I think I figured it out as you can see this the intake pic . but thank you!

intake manifold professionally cleaned, pulled all fittings and reseald, new injectors (4-holes)(opinions?) fuel rail cleaned and protected with paint

new engine to start, all new thermostat housing and thermostat, water pump and inlet tube, oil dipstick and tube, distributor, oil pump and pickup, oil pan and gasket, harmonic balancer(not in pic) and new s/s valve cover and oil pan stud kit. new valve cover and header are coming soon , ill keep you posted and get some pictures of the truck in here too

sorry about the picture being too large and stretched out of square . I need to looking into figuring out how to fix that :???:

I want to start off a build thread so I guess I'm starting here . my favorite thing in the whole house, my $2000+ dollar baby , my jeeps heart!

if you oiled the O-rings the top and bottom (fuel rail and manifold obvi) you should be able to press the injectors into the rail quite easily then with all six in the rail line them up with the manifold and give it a couple of good careful pushes they should all go in most of the way . replace the four screws and tighten them and lastly give each one a good twist back and fouth . (they moved pretty easily with the oil) you will be able to tell if the o-ring is seated , if not it will sort of bind. . in the end if theyre not leaking I wouldn't worry about the seals, and yeah id try the priming just because its easy and may help , don't get too down and good luck . . if theres anything else I can think of ill lets ya know

you need to make sure your priming the fuel rail. meaning let it fill with fuel and push all of the air you let in during the injector swap OUT .(this will also help to make sure all of the injectors are pushing fuel when their supposed to and not air) .from what ive read the pressure should be around 30 psi or so . . to do that I believe all you have to do is switch the key on until you hear the pump shut off . then turn the key back (shut off the power) wait 20-30 sec and switch it back on . you should hear the pump kick on again for a few seconds or so and kick off . .with a rag and something small push in the schrader valve on the fuel rail and check tto see it any air purges from the rail and prime it a few more times . . I can't say this will work for sure but it might . . also it will be a pain in the butt, but check to make sure the connectors to each injector are clean and making good contact . . time and time again I'm puzzeled by how little amount of corrosion can block a decent connection

hey thanks . good luck getting everything sealed up and back together

id like to know where you happen to find the tank vents (there are two plastic vents on top of the tank) and also the grommets for thost vents? . . are there any other options as fars as replacing those pieces since I'm sure they don't make them anymore?

id try replacing the ignition coil and rotor in the distributor again to be sure

I appreciate you helping me again . I don't feel like itll be too long before I know 99.9 percent of my truck (: ^^ This is 100% correct. The old Mopar balancer, p/n 33002920, requires the slinger installed. The newer Mopar balancers with an AB or AC suffix however are slightly thicker than the old balancer. So to seat all the way on the crank the slinger needs to be removed for the new Mopar balancers. However if you use an aftermarket balancer, like a Dorman or Pioneer, the slinger needs to be there as it's the same thickness as the original Mopar damper. As far as the oil slinger being necessary or important for lubrication, it isn't. It's only necessary as a shim.

thank you!!

thank you . and that's nuts !! its 85 five degrees down here in florida !!!

thankfully I haven't yet put the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) but I did purchase a new one awhile back so thatll be okay . . I supposed ill have to replace my seal and cover gasket just to be safe because I DO NOT want to deal with replaceing all of that when I do put the engine in . its 100x easier with it on the stand thanks for yalls input . I just have to go about finding one of those damn oil slingers :/

hey everyone . I'm in a sort of predicament here . . I purchased a remanufactured engine recently and lately have been cleaning all the miscellaneous covers and putting this thing together but I think I'm in some trouble . . I was at one of the local shops today getting some torque specs from a friend and happened to notice a small oil "flicker" that appeared to go on the crankshaft in front of the small timing gear. . in a panic I asked the owner if he thinks my remanufactured engine had come with one already on it and he told me hes pretty sure that the one off of my original engine was supposed to be cleaned and reused on the new motor but I know I didn't take that off or know at all that I needed to . . .so my question is have any of you ever dealt with or purchase a remanufactured engine . and did yours come with one? how critical is this part? any help or advist would be appreciated because ive alreadt put my cover and oil pan with the new rubber gasket on .. in the event that I have to pull the damn thing back apart would I be able to use my oil pan gasket again or should I take the hit and purchase another one? :doh: thank you all , brad

did you happen to see the pictures yet ?

will do soon!

will do soon