Skorpyo

One more option I found is http://postimage.io/which is free and you can use the "do not expire image" option when uploading.

Oh ok, shouldn't be a problem then. I have the cluster loose right now as I just installed a new speedo cable and wasn't ready to tighten everything down right now as I might be replacing the radio too with a better unit. Thanks! Tim

Thanks! That's sort of what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll be ordering that panel soon.

Disregard, this didn't work right... Flickr and Imgur seem to be the best options for forums...

So I have a gift card for prime4x4 and they make a pretty cool panel to replace the one where the clock is that contains 2 12v receptacles and 2 switches. I'd love to install it, but I was wondering what I'd be losing by removing the factory clock panel. The clock itself works, but is very dim and my stereo has a clock so no big loss there, but what do the lower panels do? My MJ is across town so I can't pull it and check it myself and online searching hasn't turned up anything useful. Thanks! Tim

Oh it's not a new email address. In PayPal you can setup a PayPal.me address that gives people a link to click and send $. Something like PayPal.me/comancheclub/10 and then they don't need to know your email address to send you $10. It auto sets it up for them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Donation sent! You should setup a PayPal.me address with links in the "swag" thread. I had to go find the PayPal address in my past messages but with a PayPal.me link u could just give a link. Just my $.02 Tim

Thanks! I bought these today. Appreciate the heads up on a good price and originals to boot.

Agreed 100%. I've never seen a post go unanswered or at least helped here and it's refreshing that everyones first instinct here is to help, educate and inform. If this club had paid memberships, you could count me in.

I didn't, after researching it turns out it was a universal condenser with custom made hoses, so I decided to stick with the hose, clean it up, and ordered a new parallel flow universal condenser. The one I removed was an 11x28, but with an 11x24 parallel flow I should be just fine and we'll just have to finagle the mounts. The hoses are a standard #6 and #8 so if push comes to shove I can probably find a replacement through custom hose places online or from a local shop. We're gonna see how it does after a cleaning and new o-ring. Should know this Thursday when I get time to work on it. Tim

LOL that is an absolute eyesore. If it didn't signify that you were the baddest of asses I wouldn't wear that either! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best trick I know of is to bolt in the lowers loosely, then use a floor jack to raise and lower each side individually until you get the holes "close" to lining up for the uppers. You'll typically get one side of the arm lined up and you can start the bolt in, but the other side will be misaligned. Take a punch (or a screwdriver to help square the holes up, then hammer in the bolt on the other side. Be sure to use a deadblow or a softer hammer to drive them in so you don't screw up the head. Sometimes as you get it close to the other side using an impact or air ratchet will be useful to thread it through. You'd be surprised how much you might have to raise one side to get it to line up, just keep working it. Oh, and don't tighten them down when it's jacked up, or in an odd position, leave everything loose until you get it all hooked up. Tim

It says their a reproduction, and I am a bit hesitant, but it would be nice to have a full set of FSMs, even if they are copies. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Jeep-Repair-Shop-Manual-Set-Wrangler-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Grand/361527304221?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dd5ca169431ae45c092b1af6bb75fee28%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D14%26sd%3D361527304221&_trkparms=pageci%253A8e6c7736-55c9-11e7-a7a9-74dbd1a0072b%257Cparentrq%253Ac6073ddf15c0a9c12f1a64d6fffcd4d4%257Ciid%253A1 Thoughts? Tim

Being a Navy Brat I have to say that as a Commander (O-5) or Captain (O-6) your dress uniform cover does have the basic "scrambled eggs". The more elaborate "scrambled eggs" are for Flag Officers (O-7+). Regardless I wouldn't wear that without monetary compensation...

Well far as I can guess I think it's a universal condenser. Now I need to try and find an 11x28 replacement... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope not a one. Not so lucky. And the AC hoses have numbers that don't look up at all. Maybe they had them custom made but they look older than dirt and the foam insulation in them crumbled like they were original Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So here is the condenser that was in my 89 4.0 that had a cracked line on it. I pulled it and ordered an APDI 7014173 unit and the hoses do not line up on it b cause they're recessed back. So now I'm flummoxed. Do I go through getting new hoses to fit the new one or try and figure out if that condenser came from a different vehicle?! Did the Comanche condenser ride under the radiator as a mount originally, like the Cherokee does? Mine has small L brackets they held the busted condenser. Any input would be appreciated.

So I switched out the cable for an ATP unit that has an incorrect connector at the gauge since I could pull the drive out of the sheath. I gave it a bath in dry graphite and it's running smoother now. It's at an acceptable range and since I've got a ton of other stuff to work on that'll have to be good enough for now. Thanks everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the saga continues. I verified the cable didn't have any sharp bends and hooked it up to a drill at a low speed and the needle still jumps. It's as if the cable is binding inside. So I took another cable I had that has an incorrect fitting and tested it and it too jumped. Lastly I hooked back up the original cable and when testing it it was as smooth as silk. It is certainly more stiff than the replacements and I'm out of ideas at this point. I tried to lubricate the new cable but that didn't help either. It seems like it's coiling up inside the sheathing when hooked up to the gauge. Off the gauge it turns smoothly but the least resistance causes it to bind. Tim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I meant to add that I'm sure I can get a new hose made though off the shelf is way cheaper than local shops. Also the hose is about 3' long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my 89 MJ was converted to R134a at some time in it's life before I bought it but when I bought it the PO told me it hadn't worked in the 2 years he had owned it but he hadn't tried to tackle it yet. The compressor is definitely not the original, it's a Sanden SD-508 (10 groove) and we found the leak was at the lower connection on the condenser which feeds back to the accumulator. The connector at the condenser side was scored rather badly so rather than re-use a bad hose I wanted to replace it, but frankly I'm not sure what to even lookup since the setup is not factory and the best looking match I could find was some hose for a 2.5L. Here's a snapshot of the hose I pulled and would like to replace. I have a new condenser to put in, and it's a factory match, and from what I can tell should work just fine with the hose, so long as I can get a new hose. TIA Tim

So this past weekend I received a brand new 32 tooth gear, clocked it correctly and installed it ensuring it was properly seated and all cable connections were good. It still caused the speedometer to "jump" when engaged... I immediately shut off the drive so the gear didn't get any more damaged, but at this point I'm flummoxed. Why would a brand new gear, installed correctly, clocked correctly with all components meshing cause the speedo gear to jump? Would it be something with the cable I installed? I put in a new Crown cable that is fit for a 89 XJ/MJ with 4WD. I'm out of ideas and willing to take feedback from the forum at this point. After this failure I simply moved on to other projects so I haven't toyed with it since. Tim

There's markings on the housing that give a range. For example one says 32-38 and if you're installing a 34 tooth gear that marking round point towards a raised dot on the transfer case. Essentially it would be around the 6:00 mark if you were to think of the bolt location as 3:00. Here's a good photo of an electrical setup but it's the same for a mechanical: You'd think knowing all this I wouldn't have screwed mine up but I learned it too late. Oh well new ones in the mail. Tim

It was a long gear.

Disregard. Turns out when I first installed the gear it wasn't clocked correctly and it ate a few of the teeth on the gear. So now I need to buy another speedo gear... So be warned that Rugged Ridge speedo gears are very soft... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk