philbert001

Yup! Doesn't take much at all!

I believe stockers are 5 or 5.5. I run 4, but most guys I know run 3. With 35s, I think you would run into rubbing/turning issues with anything narrower than 3.

I've got 2 buddies that have sold their rigs, and I told em they can't both ride with me, unless one is in the back! Then the brat came to mind instantly! (Actually, it followed a cinderblock tied to the tiedowns in the bed!)

And as of now, I have about 6 inches of lift up front on short arms.

3 inches on a 15x10 rim should do it for ya. I'm running 4 inch backspaced 16x 8's and clear 285's, (33.4x12.5) with about 1/2 inch to the control arm. If you still rub a little, throw a couple washers in behind your steering stops. If you go with anything wider than 3 inches, you'll be putting a LOT more stress on all your front end/steering components.

That's to press the bushings outa the sleeves. you can easily knock the whole bushing/sleeve assembly out by setting the arm on a 2x4, and a couple good whacks from a hammer will take her right out. New bushings from auto parts store will have new bushings with new inner and outer sleeves already on em! I think I paid $25 a side for spicer,(Original manufacturer!), bushings for the wifes ZJ, at auto zone, or advance. (Can't remember which)

:agree: I would start simpler. Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. You'd be amazed how often people think they have a problem, when all they really need is a good tune-up!

Nice truck man! I remember when you posted her first surgery! I hope that thing frightens prius's and their owners out there in Cali!

You can just replace the bushings for about $25 a side.

Wow! I think that's what I paid for the whole kit!

Are you sure? It's a chevy steering column, and chevy keys for the ignition and the door locks. I don't see why they would use chevy keys, just to design their own lock cylinder.

Get the plastic buckets out of a subaru brat bed!

Just go to the parts store, and ask for lock cylinders for an 89ish chevy truck. (That's where our ignition switches and door locks came from, as well as steering column and everything on it/in it.) I would think that will get the job done for ya!)

I am an automotive painter, and I have one of those! (Don't tell anyone!) As long as there is no crease to a dent, they do work surprisingly well! Sorry to hijack, but have you run out of the black glue sticks yet? Just curious, because when I ran out, I tried regular glue sticks. (I figured they'd be the same thing, but they aren't.) Just wondering if you have made the effort to find more or not!

Is the paint Undamaged where the door dings are? If so, I'd say go ahead and give Jims advice a shot. You can get a decent hammer and dolly set at Harbor freight for $25 or so. They are steel, so in order to protect your paint, I'd say wrap 2-3 layers of duct tape over the head of the hammer. Jim is spot on though on being gentle and patient. The metal is already stretched inward from the dent. Flattening it back out is actually gonna stretch it out even more, so be careful, or you'll end up with a dentless door that's wavy from end to end. I'm a painter, so I would just as soon fill the dings to keep from further stretching the metal, block sand it, prime it and paint it. I realize this isn't a viable option for a non painter/bodyman, so I'd say the next best bet is the hammer and dolly option! Good luck and let us know how it comes out! My wife also used to park her Jeep as close as possible to the store, till I started pointing out new dents! Either she got tired of listening to me yell, or she realized how stupid it is to allow unnecessary damage to occur! Either way, she quit parking like that!

Wow! Least you don't have to worry about them being sloppy!

Oh! You are talking about re-using the sleeve! Why? You can knock the whole sleeve out of the control arm, then get new bushings, sleeves and all! (If you are upgrading to urethane bushings, in stock control arms, I gotta ask, "Why?") You can get 4 oe style LCA bushings, in sleeves, for $50-$60!

:huh???: I've always used a hammer and a block of wood! What are you pushing em out the wrong side?

That appears to be a lock cylinder for a later XJ/ZJ, when they put the factory alarms in em, because it has the nipple on the back for the lock position sensor.

You could also try loosening the bolts that hold the hinges to the door, (One hinge at a time), and move the door in towards the body just a touch. If your door isn't aligned well, just figure out which hinge to manipulate. moving the bottom hinge towards the inside of the door, (Door moved out), will move the window frame of the door in towards the seal. Moving the upper hinge towards the outside, (Door moved in) will also move the window frame in. Aligning panels, (Well), is an acquired skill, but once you've got it down, it's pretty easy!

No problem, and Congrats on baby! I've Still got 2 child seats equipped myself! (Not in the manche!) :rotfl2: Tell your old man he shoulda got an auto!

It may be tough to keep it stable on the tranny hump. Maybe a platform, right on top of the tranny hump, secured to the floor, then the lap belt securing the base to the platform. I'd still say talk to a cop though! I believe the ticket for improperly secured child seat is a salty one! (Here at least!)

Why don't you get a bench seat, and install the third seatbelt. I'm pretty sure anything else will be illegal. (And probably pretty unsafe.)

AND you got tow points? Sounds like a plan buddy!

you'll also have to trim your fenders, or switch to 97-01 fenders, as the end caps go all the way back to the wheel opening.