HughMann

I am going ahead and making a build thread even though this will be a long term build because I am bored at work. will add pics at later date. Future Plans: Ford 9" rear Still deciding on front. 44 or 60 or even a front ford 9" 35" Tires Maybe Future plans: 401 AMC + tranny Trying to decide on if I want to go full width or not. Since a 70-79 ford truck/big bronco 9" is very close perch width wise with the MJ so the rear would be easy.

I'm going to just get the body part since I'm planning to go to 97+ doors soon anyway.

for something safety like belts I would prefer to go new.

Which seat belts would yall chose . 1.) http://www.quadratec.com/products/14247_81XX_PG.htm OEM replacement, made in usa and you can get it in alot of colors. $169 2.) http://www.quadratec.com/products/24248_3100.htm Corbeau universal 3 point retractable. $39.

thank you.

OK few questions. 1.) Weatherstripping around the door. Same as XJ? noticed a lovely draft from the bad weatherstripping on my drivers door today. 2.) My MJ has the bucket seats and the belt is torn. will the belts from the front of a XJ work? I would rather buy new for seat belts. because safety.

same as front floor pans for an xj cherokee iirc.

Will XJ seat belts not work? edit: I meant for bucket seats. I would understand about the bench seat seat belts being MJ only..

create a custom shifter and try them out. What could possibly go wrong?

Ok now that I have decided to keep my mj I am trying to diagnose my transmission issue. I think the torque converter in my mj is going out. At 45+ when going up a hill it feels like driving on a rumble strip until you let off the gas or force it to down shift. I can get it to do it at as slow as 35 on occasion but it is almost always at 45+. It is a jeep aw4 transmission. Thoughts?

found here http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/upoa-etown-11-9-13-the-battle-is-over-but-the-war-g-1462098004 I was just looking at panther platform cars and how they do drag racing and came across this article and spotted the Comanche hiding in the back ground and thought you all would like it.

Well over $10,000 is a safe bet I would guess - it is an all-up package including 6-speed auto and transfer case. Thanks for posting it - high price doesn't make me want it any less, just means I can't have it. knowing banks the engine itself will be over $10k

Ok My mj the rear feels like you are driving on a rumble strip when going up any incline between 45-65 mph when throttle is applied then if you let off the gas it stops or if you give it more gas it will stop at 2900ish rpms or when it downshifts. I got under the truck with the wheels blocked in neutral with the parking brake on and when I turned the drive shaft it doesnt show slack in the u joints bust it does show slack on the axle side of the shaft. not on the drive shaft or ujoint but on the pinion side where it enters the axle. it will turn a little in either direction before it hits what i assume is the gear.

there is also a 88 mj in a pick and pull fairly close that I might go an get an axle from. Would the u joint cause the issues described in my op that is what someone suggested on a different forum? That woulda been the first thing to replace being its the cheapest. $20 bucks and a little bit of time to change. You an change that yourself with a few sockets and a bench vice. Then if it ends up being the axle, you have a new joint. I'd also pop the cover off the diff and take a peak for anything obvious. I Will get it looked at since I found the issue with the very not nice sounding front of the engine and coolant leak, My water pump is toast(sounds like its coming apart and you can see coolant gushing out around it) and I don't have the time(last semester at college/work part time as well) nor the motivation to do the water pump right now, so I am just going to take it to my mechanic once i get paid next week. on a good note It did give me 17 mpg on the last tank of gas i ran through it.(70%city/30% highway)

there is also a 88 mj in a pick and pull fairly close that I might go an get an axle from. Would the u joint cause the issues described in my op that is what someone suggested on a different forum?

The rear axle in my mj is toast( binding going up an incline at 45-65 when throttle is applied feels like driving on a rumble strip between 1500-2500 rpm.) There is a matched set d44/9" from a 74 bronco for $300 on my cl. How much would I have to move the spring perches and how much would a shop charge for something like that?

for swapping a xj waggy grill(4 lights) onto the MJ what all do I need other than the grill and bezels and possibly the headlight buckets?

1991, Jeep, Comanche, Eliminator 4.0L H.O/ AW-4 / NP231 / Dana 30 / Dana 35 / SWB Build date: 8-90 Current Location: Western North Carolina Status: still on the road at 158k miles Notes:Grey on grey with cloth buckets. floor shifter, It might have a limited slip diff but I have not been able to confirm. Current owner: I'm the current owner

sounds reasonable.

I purchased a MJ on the 4th of this month. It had been sitting since 2011 when the PO passed away until 4/9/13 when it was re-registered by the PO's wife and It had less than 100 miles from the inspection mileage when I bought it. The issue is that the little yellow low fuel light comes on at anywhere from 1/3 tank or less and will go on and off depending on if you are going up or down a hill or around a turn with some speed and sometimes it will just go on and off on flat ground. I am guessing part of the problem is that it has only had maybe 2 tanks of gas through it since 2011, but is there a fuel level sensor that might need to be cleaned? I am also guessing that the only options to change said sensor if there is one is to a) drop the tank or b) take the bed off. Am I correct on that assumption?