BryceOJ

Okay thanks guys. Would love to have a tach and that's good to hear that it'll work! Now to find a cluster! Haha

Got an 88 and looking for the older color scheme instrument color (darkish blue) not the black and red. I'm not sure which would be compatible, Mine right now has the big fuel gauge and the speedo gauge with idiot lights. I have column shift, so I have the indicator. I know if i get a cluster with gauges i would have to get new temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor. Not sure what will happen if its one with a tachometer since I don't have one. I'm guessing ill have to get the 3/4 cluster which has the big fuel gauge still and no tach.

I have one, my ole 4 banger base model as it gets, got for free. Certainly want at least 2, right when I graduate college i will look for another. Definitely will have to be a 4.0, stick, with A/c, power steering, the things mine is lacking...

So I have a pretty decent leak coming from one of my transmission lines. The leak is coming from the line that the fluid runs from the transmission to the radiator. It's seems that the bracket that holds the two lines has rubbed and formed a crack on the edge of the line. Like it has dug into it. How should I go about fixing this? The bracket The leaky spot I've looked all online for a replacement line and haven't found anything that looks similar to mine, though I shouldn't go by pictures alone I just have a hard time finding things due to it being for a 4.0 instead of being for my 2.5l. Or it being for a later 2.5L. I don't want to buy a new one and it being the wrong one. The line runs from the left side, in relation from the front of the vehicle, of the transmission straight toward the front and then makes a 90 degree angle across and under the engine and then to the bottom right corner of the radiator.

Oh and here's some of the product from those buzzing bees I spoke of. This isn't even half of it from two hives!

Thanks comanche kid !! I plan to certainly keep it all stock and just restore this one. Next summer it's getting a new paint job So today finished replacing the exhaust. Looks a lot nicer than the old rust pipes that were there before. I plan to clean up the engine compartment next. Change the transmission fluid. Work on some cosmetic things. And have a photoshoot In the next week to show my truck to you all some more. Here's old exhaust parts And the new

Just gonna put up a quick update. This weekend I am putting a whole new exhaust on, including o2 sensor. I'll get back with results on that. I'm still battling a running rough situation. After this I plan to replace vacuum lines and look into testing the map sensor or replace it. Another thing I plan to do is fixing my leaky oil filler cap and I plan to do a whole engine wash and cleaning. It's accumulated about a year of oil leaking sludge from a cracked valve cover that I just replaced recently. To say the least my work on this old 4 banger is coming along

I have a traditional style toolbox and the amount of storage that it has is just great to have. I have plenty of tools equipment and has plenty more room for anything else. It comes in handy when you have a passenger you have bags and what not. I fish a lot too and I love you rod rack. I definitely will be trying make something work with my tool box. I'll send pics of mine tomorrow for you.

thank you, that is next on my list to do!!

Where is the IAC? I cleaned and refreshed the ground at the dipstick. I'm having a high idle when its been warm its pretty high, but when cold idling is just rough and can barely run, most times itll eventually cut off

I don't know, I guess that it could happen. With less cylinders would a 4 cylinder be able to run even if the distributor is mis-indexed by one gear on the shaft? I'm no mechanic nor good with cars or my 2.5. When I was trying to get mine running I took the distributor out and for got to mark it before I pulled it out. It took me several times to set it to get it correct. All the times that i set it incorrectly It never was able to run

actually I'm wrong, thought that indexing was meant by moving/rotating the distributor housing in order to adjust spark timing like older conventional distributors. when setting a distributor for a 2.5 i believe its similar where the oil pump gear is slightly past 3 o clock, and so then the rotor should be at 6 oclock i think.

I don't think you can index the 2.5 distributor?

Been several days and hasnt overheated anymore! So now thats fix, I have many other things on my agenda. Saturday i will be visiting a yard and looking for various things. I plan to tomorrow do some cruisers tips. I been trying to figure one problem Ive been having since i got it. It has a rough idle when started cold and it has to be started with the gas pedal down a little and it will just cut out if i let go of the gas after its started. But once its warm it runs smooth. I donno what it is i get frustrated easily lol. I had a hypothesis that its the oxygen sensor gone bad sending a bad or no signal to the computer which in turn lets it run really rich due to like a default setting in the computer explaining why it runs normal at normal operating temp i donno I'm probably wrong

I'm an interested in doing this to my mj as well. And how it will be done on a 2.5l. I know that if I find a jeep 2.5 of the same era I'm jumping all over it but havent seen one yet. I assume installing a/c on a 2.5 may have slight variations compared to the 4.0 i donno for sure though

Don't stop at 2!!!! Free and easy to do 3 through 5!! Just for the day I stopped. I'm gonna get to the rest

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: love it haha. I'm in the look out for these aluminum covers you all speak of

Yeah I guess I understand why it happens with being an old vehicle. Its still frustrating but being in love with these kinds of trucks and also the fact that I am young and never worked on cars before I get to use this as a learning experience about working on cars and its all worth the fight. And thank you so much!

So far I did 1 and 2 and also put a new air filter in today. Having the same symptoms. I don't expect it to be fix right away nor easily I know it'll take some time and process of elimination to get it running like it supposed to. Being young, inexperienced, and easily frustrated I just get so discouraged with things like this. After solving one issue and then going to next and the next and pouring most of my minuscule paychecks into and spending so much time it gets frustrating I must say. I need a bud to help me in person lol and also a side by side comparison of a 2.5 to mine cause I have questions about things whether a PO has hooked up things wrong.

I gotcha now. Well thank you! I'll get those tips as soon as I can and will get back with results

Yeah an 88 with 2.5. And I was already planning on doing your tips after I fixed my overheating problem. I even printed them out! I will definitely start with that as soon as this awful heat and humidity are gone or I'll just toughen up and go outside a sweat a little bit. I'll also look Into cleaning the throttle body like jeep driver said if there isn't any improvement after that. I am just confused why it'll run nice and smooth after it's at normal operating temperature and not have the same symptoms on start up

Thanks in advance for reading So when starting my mj it will not start unless I turn the ignition with a little gas. But It'll start everytime like this. Without gas it will just crank and crank. Now after starting it with gas, if I let off the gas the engine will idle REALLY rough and cut out shortly afterwards. I have to maintain a little gas while in park starting from cold like this to keep it running. When it begins to warm up it will idle really rough but stay on without gas. It will do the same if I go ahead and put it in drive but with the brake on. But once the truck is at normal operating temperatures it runs completely smooth. In park it's as quiet and as smooth as can be. Is this normal for a old truck like this? Or is there a problem keeping it from running smooth and to start out from cold smooth? I have considered that it maybe fuel injector, or fuel pressure.? I considered that it maybe a vacuum issue? Or some kind sensor issue? I'm really not sure. I just don't want to throw parts at it when I'm short on money. I just got over an overheating problem that's been fixed now. This problem has also been an issue since I got it. Just never messed with it because I've had other engine issues and after the engines warm it runs like normal. Now I wanna get my engine to tip top shape. Any good ideas what it could be?

I can't seem to do it correctly. I just can't get them to look that good. Where do you find "brown scotch brite pad" I can't seem to find one anywhere. I maybe getting the wrong pad that may be too course. I seem to make no improvements or even make them foggier after they dry from water. How much pressure do you use on the oxidation spots?

Oh wow, yours seems more like an electrical problem with in the switch, maybe? mine seems more like a mechanical problem

Thank you sir! I feel that keeping it as a DD will be a good idea, next step is to add in P/S i have pump and reservoir, gonna find a gear box this weekend. And then after going to look into installing A/c then it will be a pretty comfortable truck to use as a DD. Then I have a reason to get another one with 4x4 and 4.0. And I am gonna fix it slowly. I have been painting plastic accent pieces, and gonna be painting the bumpers, just to give it some flare. May go ahead and paint in a nice bed liner. Not looking to get the body painted just yet. Gonna do a couple more things to the interior then Ill be satisfied with the cosmetics. It definitely needs some engine work, Ive been just having a really rough idle, and its only from when it starts cold, after driving it idles really smoothly. Not sure what it may be. Looking into that next.