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Oly

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Everything posted by Oly

  1. Oly
    so i just went out there to start it and now its cycling and not overheating. i think the water froze in the bottom hose and wasnt allowing it to cycle. and last night when i put antifreeze in it it must have melted that ice and now its cycling thats the only thing i can think of tho.
  2. Oly
    thanks for the replies guys youve been a big help. its cold again this morning I'm gonna go fire it off and time how long it takes to get hot. i was told if its a blown head gasket i should see bubbles/air pockets coming up through the radiator. would you agree with this?
  3. Oly
    ya i know she needs a flush. i don't mean to sound like an idiot I'm actually very knowledgable with cars but i get paranoid evrytime its my vehicle having the issue lol. I'm thinking its a water pump cuz yesterday she was purring like a kitten and i didnt romp on it or anything. now shes overheating. I'm thinking it got too cold last night and this morning when i started it maybe it sheared the water pump?
  4. Oly
    oil seems fine. so i just went out to put antifreeze in it so i don't mess up the block over night. i put probably 2 cups of straight antifreeze in the radiator to fill it up. started it and it wasnt cycling well. the water was brown-ish and i ran it till it started getting hot and there was still plenty green that i could see so i don't think its cycling what do u guys think?
  5. Oly
    i was afraid of hearing that. while at work today it took bout 10-15 min for it to start boiling. do u think i should replace water pump first or rip of the head?
  6. Oly
    ok so 88 mj 2.5l. overheated a month ago changed thermostat and she has been doin fine. i have a small leak from my radiator and i don't make much money so ive been adding water. about a week ago was the last time i added water. this morning it started snowing so its pretty cold started the truckshe was doing fine let her warm up drove 3 miles and she started overheating. so i pulled the thermostat on the side of the road. hooked evrything back up and drove to work bout another 2 miles and she was boiling over when i got there. had to be towed home tonight because she just keeps overheating. i popped the cap off and rann it and it seems to be cycling water......please tell me this isnt a blown head gasket. I'm in need of help I'm beginning to lose my passion for the mj
  7. Oly
    195 is oe recommended temp. drilling a hole is totally fine to do. most thermostats now days don't come with that "jiggle valve" anymore. not sure why.... i recently replaced mine as well in my 2.5 and it is doin great
  8. Oly
    thanks again guys for the replies. here's the latest. went out next morning was cranking it over no fire. i moved a bunch of wires around including cps wires. pulled plug #1 grounded it out the see if i was getting spark and she ran on 3 cylinders. put the plug back in had a rough start but then ran great and she hasnt skipped a beat last 2 days.....
  9. Oly
    i really appreciate the feedback guys. i wonder if theres a way to test my sensors with a multimeter. does anyone have the specs on resistance and stuff through all those sensors? also i work at oreilly auto parts and i did just put borg warner on for my cap and rotor.
  10. Oly
    she just got cap rotor plugs wires about 2 months ago. low miles on them. fuel pump sounds to be working. no work has been done on timing chain and i don't think she jumped teeth. bout 206,000 on motor. I'm wonderin maybe distributor pickup or distributor itself. could the ignitor/ignition control module cause this? i don't think its a fuel problem i don't think that would be the cause of it popping back through the intake.
  11. Oly
    so my 88 comanche daily driver has been doing great but lately ive had some random misfiring issues. mainly when it was cold. today i pulled out into traffic and when accelerating in 2nd gear just dies. i restarted idled up then choked out and died again. this happened 3 or 4 times. now when i crank it over all it is doing is sputtering and popping back through intake. plz help my poor truck
  12. Oly
    i also have the ax-4 tranny I'm my mj with the 2.5. when i changed the slave cylinder (about 3 weeks ago) i drained the gear oil and put new gl-5 in it. (i work for an auto parts store and thats what the computers and books recommend) my tranny still whines really bad. it did before and its still doin it now. however i had no metal shavings in the oil....
  13. Oly
    I would assume waiting because u wouldnt want to put strain on your motor before it breaks in. rings and lifters need to seat up right
  14. Oly
    yea that makes sense. and what supercharger do u plan to use?
  15. Oly
    I'm pretty certain they make a rubber type gromet which may solve that problem. kinda like the gromet u would use for a pcv valve. this way it wouldnt look ghetto. just a thought!
  16. Oly
    hey thanks evryone for helpin me out with questions before great replies. so I'm rebuilding a 6 cyl 4.0 for my comanche. now i would really like to put an eaton m90 supercharger on it. from what i hear it should be rather painless. does anyone have info or concerns on this? also if i do this should i put it on during the "break in" period of my new rebuild or wait till its broken in to install? thanks everyone
  17. Oly
    pair of chanel locks grab the metal right above the rubber and simply unscrew it. when you put new coils in u will have to kinda fish it up with your fingers in between the spring coils.
  18. Oly
    lol sorry bout the lack of info. why did u say as long as the flywheel stays on the crank i will be ok then? also one more question....my 88 comanche with the 4 cyl 4 speed does not have a check engine light at all. i have even removed the cluster and "info center" dash thingy and there is literally no check engine light. its throttle body injected so i imagine i would have some sort of engine check light or something right???
  19. Oly
    hey guys thank you much for the replies. currently i have the 2.5 4cyl in it. i am swapping the motor trans wiring and pcm radiator all the other fun $#!& that goes with it. however i am rebuilding the 6 cyl b4 i put it in. so unfortunately i already removed the flywheel from the crank and again i didnt mark it like a jackass. so how do i insure i get the flex plate/flywheel in the right position? and also does anyone know the size bolts i need and thread to mount the motor on a stand? thank you again everyone!
  20. Oly
    the motor and transmission are both stock in the cherokee. 91 so i believe its chrysler right? i just seperated the motor and transmission today I'm not changing anything so i know they work together. sorry if I'm not providing much info like i said I'm a rookie
  21. Oly
    right well i gathered that much. so it doesnt matter which hole lines up with which hole as long as the original holes were used and all four bolts are securing the torque converter? it just seems wierd to me why it would say it has to be marked and i must match up how i marked it. and is there only one way to put the flex plate back on as far as it lining up properly?
  22. Oly
    awesome there is some relief. now this may be a dumb question but i have a haynes manual and it says to mark to torque converter to the flex plate. why is that for balance purposes?
  23. Oly
    I need help please someone. i made a rookie mistake because well....I'm a rookie. so i have an 88 comanche that is going to hopefully have a 6 cyl 4.0 and auto trans that I'm removing from a 91 cherokee donor. from what i can tell should be a direct bolt up. my issue is i pulled motor and trans and un bolted trans from engine. i unbolted the torque converter first however I'm a dumbass and didnt mark the torque converter to the flex plate now i don't know the way i should re-bolt it up for it to work right with the crank positioning sensor i believe. sorry for the inconvenience and thank you for replies. ~Oly~
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