flint54

After a more thorough exam, I now also conclude that this pack has an added, non-standard leaf. Check out this image that shows the leaf next to the main leaf. Notice that the end is square and rough, not tapered like the original ends, and notice also the slight gouging of the main leaf. I'm going to take it out, grind an underside taper so it mates without further gouging, and hope the main leaf isn't adversely weakened already. I'm also going to learn to ask better questions before buying used parts long distance. I asked for "MJ five leaf springs" instead of asking for "MJ original five leaf springs". Lesson learned. The new shims are same thickness as the originals, about 0.090.

If it's for the front flares, the XJ's work fine. I ruint several of them at the JY before I figured out a removal trick. The trick (that worked for me) is to run a nut all the way down on the exposed shank, before removing the original nut. That cleans the threads without twisting the shank and busting the welded stud.

The OEM cupholder shows to be PN 55115020 (item 32 in the image), and installs farther forward. The aftermarket cupholder you show is a popular one, fits MJ, but made for XJ since it has a slot in the front to clear the EB handle. I've got one and am very pleased with it. Will not hold those jumbo drinks though.

I suppose anything is possible, but based on the the surface wear patterns amongst the leafs, and based on way the center bolt was rust-welded to all five leafs, I'm pretty confident thay are all original, or perhaps a "long, long, ago" addition. It was a real barrel of fun to drill out. Looking at the four leaf pack on my original (never molested) installation, I now notice the sleeve you're mentioning, although it's rusted to a state of virtual "gone-ness". I think Pete's idea of downsizing the bolt diameter, coupled with your sleeve observation, are going to be the way to go. I'm thinking a 5/16" OD sleeve to the outside faces of the retainer, with a 1/4" grade 8 bolt will do it. I'm also thinking I'll deal with this after the springs are installed so the vehicle weight is bearing and helping hold the pack tight. Thanks!

I recently bought a pair of five leaf rear springs from a junkyard Comanche, but they were missing the bolts at the U-shape retainers. I separated the packs, cleaned then up, and reassembled them with new nylon chafe shims. The holes in the retainers take a 3/8" bolt, but for the life of me I cannot install new bolts, even with clamping the springs tightly together. Best I can get is half a hole off. These retainers merely keep the springs parallel and don't carry load, but the bolts should fit without hard interference. What am I doing wrong? I am certain the leafs are assembled in the correct order and orientation. Here's an image: Image Not Found

Bench seats are better for some things, but for driving I really prefer buckets.

Generally, the dealer part costs more but sometimes ir's worth the difference to have OEM vs. aftermarket (some may argue this). Take a look also at Chrysler Parts Direct (a web-based source) which is often 10%-15% or more less than "list". In the case of T-stats, a functional design difference justifies (to me at least) using OEM. My biggest gripe with going to the dealer is when they tell me "NLA" for a vehicle that is "only" 17 years old. I've also found that the folks at the counter can be pretty helpful, which is a heck of a lot more than I can say for some "online" sources.

Yes, this is the piece where the wheelwell and the outside sheet metal join, where the flare bolts on. I wish there were a junkyard within a hundred miles of here that had even one comanche to pick from. Since I expect this truck (when I'm done) to outlive me, I would really like to install a new part, if one can be found. Wondering also who can tell me the difference between the cherokee and comanche flair retainers for the rear. The fronts are identical, but the rears have differing part numbers. Has anyone successfully interchanged them for the rear? Want to line up some replacements since I know the studs will bust off mine (like they did in front - every one), when I remove them.

I have one piece of metal that needs to be replaced, it's the outer half of the two-part rear wheelwell, RH side, the one that turns to swiss cheese. (Amazingly, the LH side. also original, is great.) Actual part number is 55004042, and they call it a fender. Dealer says NLA, and so does Chrysler Parts Direct. Sherman and Team Cherokee do not list it either. Anyone know of a source for this part? Thanks!

I appreciate all the good tips. Turns out the Husky Spring Co. has the shims, they're on their way here, and cost 50 cents each. Great outfit! Tom

The original U bolts are 0.500 diameter, and the supports are 0.325 thick. This is on a '92 4wd, which I know has never been disturbed. The original 4 leaf springs are code "444" (whatever that means) according to the factory build sheet. Does anyone have a decipher list for build sheets? The 'HD" set came from a 87 4wd. Those U bolts measure just 0.475 and the supports are just 0.220 thick. The springs are 5 leaf with the first four measuring 0.291 and the last measuring 0.625. This should be the 1440lb spring? Interesting to note is that, when disassembled, the four curved leafs all have somewhat different arches. I would have guessed differently. What I'm really hoping for, is if someone can point me to a source for some new plastic shims. Thanks! [/img]

I've bought a pair of 5 leaf HD springs and associated hardware. Have disassembled them for cleanup and coating. The (teflon-like) chafe shims are trash, and my parts catalog does not show them as available items. Does anyone know a source for these? Also noticed that my original springs (the lightest rated springs available) are mounted with heavier gauge hardware than this HD spring set was mounted with. Puzzling. The original U bolts are larger diameter and the mount plates are nearly twice as thick.

Just curious why the XJ has two horns (one high and one low) and the MJ has only one, even though it's wired for two? It's the first "firewall forward" difference I've found. One of life's mysteries I suppose........

Let me tell you how it unfolded on my 92. First off, the trip reset was broken (little pieces inside). I wanted it functional so I got a whole cluster from the boneyard ($10), swapped out the speedometer assembly (very easy to do) to verify everything worked well. Since my MJ is very low actual miles, and the salvage unit had rather high miles, I ended up sending it off, with proof of actual vehicle miles (copy of title) to a really great outfit. They reset the odometer to the number I requested, and it cost me $57 including the shipping. They got it in two days, adjusted it same day, and I had it back on day 5. The outfit is: APT Instruments Intl Inc, 9632 Humboldt Ave S, Bloomington MN 55431 952-881-7095, and they were a pleasure to work with. Tom

I've hunted high and low for a probable location. The short driver side line is unsupported from manifold to wheelwell grommet. The passenger side line is held to firewall by standoff brackets. Agree with the line in the groove, I'm also thinking the would have been held in place by not just the line. I've looked at other XJ's, and not seen these parts. I've never seen another MJ around here to look at. Usually the factory parts manual is really good about showing even the tiniest of parts, but I cannot find these shown anywhere. BTW, I don't usually have "leftover" parts, and I really would like to get then exactly where they belong. You should have seen the lines I removed! They crumbled in my hands. Cannot imagine how they held pressure for the 2000+/- miles I drove this thing before the discovery. Thanks!

I've hunted high and low for a probable location. The short driver side line is unsupported from manifold to wheelwell grommet. The passenger side line is held to firewall by standoff brackets. Agree with the line in the groove, I'm also thinking the would have been held in place by not just the line. I've looked at other XJ's, and not seen these parts. I've never seen another MJ around here to look at. Usually the factory parts manual is really good about showing even the tiniest of parts, but I cannot find these shown anywhere. BTW, I don't usually have "leftover" parts, and I really would like to get then exactly where they belong. You should have seen the lines I removed! They crumbled in my hands. Cannot imagine how they held pressure for the 2000+/- miles I drove this thing before the discovery. Thanks!

Well, I have neither the abilities or facilities to weld. My initial plan was to first neutrailze the corrosion, then swab the inside with POR-15, then tack a fabricated piece over the hole, then POR-15 over that. Interesting in that the inside is where the damage is, but underneath you can hardly tell. It's as if the side seam between floor pan and inner sill separated, then the front tire splash over the years invaded that gap. If truck had mudflaps, this probably would not have happened, at least no so bad. Wish the Jeep folks knew more about metallurgy and protective finishes back then.

Well, I have neither the abilities or facilities to weld. My initial plan was to first neutrailze the corrosion, then swab the inside with POR-15, then tack a fabricated piece over the hole, then POR-15 over that. Interesting in that the inside is where the damage is, but underneath you can hardly tell. It's as if the side seam between floor pan and inner sill separated, then the front tire splash over the years invaded that gap. If truck had mudflaps, this probably would not have happened, at least no so bad. Wish the Jeep folks knew more about metallurgy and protective finishes back then.

Definitely not the rear window. See picture, it came in at the side seam between floor panel and inner sill. Rear of truck has always been dry.

Definitely not the rear window. See picture, it came in at the side seam between floor panel and inner sill. Rear of truck has always been dry.

Not a coil spacer, it's a tiny little part, about one inch square, and maybe 1/8" thick. V-groove on one side, and just square on the other.

Not a coil spacer, it's a tiny little part, about one inch square, and maybe 1/8" thick. V-groove on one side, and just square on the other.

I recently replaced both steel brake lines that run from the junction block below master cylinder out to the front wheelwells. When I was finished, I found two rubber blocks on the ground, apparently one from each side. For the life of me, I cannot figure out where they go, and my factory parts catalog offers me no clue. Does anyone know what these are for? They're about 1 inch square. Thanks! Image Not Found

I recently replaced both steel brake lines that run from the junction block below master cylinder out to the front wheelwells. When I was finished, I found two rubber blocks on the ground, apparently one from each side. For the life of me, I cannot figure out where they go, and my factory parts catalog offers me no clue. Does anyone know what these are for? They're about 1 inch square. Thanks! Image Not Found

Not long ago I posted a question about water getting in the cab and wetting the passenger side carpet. I had already checked many possible sources, to no avail. I then checked all the good suggestions, also to no avail. Recall I had stated the floor to be in great shape, and by appearance it was. The MJ floor is liberally factory coated along the front and side with a past-like sealant, often quite thick. I decided to peel away the sealant in the corner where floor joins inner sill and guess what I found. Voila, the water source. Really ugly! Now who's got repair suggestions? Image Not Found