flint54

"Don't know of any that came from the factory with one either." Granted there aren't many, but some: GT40, 911S, M3, CTS-V, and other mundane cars... I'll let this one go as just another momentary automotive infatuation. They pass quickly. Now back to your regular programming.......... ;)

Certainly coolant temps get all the glory and attention, and shouldn't be ignored, but I continue to believe that oil temps could be a far more reliable indicator of what is going on at the most critical and highest stress points inside, the rotating and sliding surfaces where heat management is of the utmost importance, second only to minimizing contamination. Anyways, I appreciate your reply. This topic didn't generate the interest I had hoped for. Last call - any of you folks measuring your oil temperature? Somebody has got to step up to the plate and help me justify yet another add-on for this truck: http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7936 Please?

Forgot to add; use lots of oil on the FI o-rings.

I did not find it necessary, but I worked slowly and incrementally down the line so as not to cause undue force at any one FI location.

Here are my ideas: If your speedo gear engages anything like mine (I have 4WD with Tcase -but FPL shows to be similar), the (steel) output shaft has a segment with spiral splines (technically a gear but looks a bit different) that drives the speedo gear. If your plastic gear is not damaged as you say, it seems very unlikely (to me) that the output shaft would have gotten damaged. Take a really close look at those splines (as you probably already have) and see if they actually look to be chewed up in any way. If they do, you have more problems than just a non-functioning speedo, you have lot's of metal particles inside the xmission. That's a rebuild, which a lot of folks (especially me) are unequipped and unqualified to perform. Anything obviously shiny in the fluid? I suspect something else, I suspect an engagement problem somewhere along the line. Coupla troubleshooting ideas: 1) Does the plastic gear engage tightly onto its post? 2) With the speedo connected, can you create needle motion by spinning the free back end of the new cable? 3) With the speedo disconnected, trans end connected, vehicle up on blocks, running and in gear, does the free front end of the cable spin?

If given that higher oil temperatures equate to less viscosity, and possibly greater wear rates, it seems that having some grip on actual oil temp could be helpful. Is anyone here actual measuring oil temp with an added gauge? If yes, what do you nominally read? I understand that the API ratings take into account the service temperatures, and understand that there's a tradeoff if oil temps are too low (cannot deal with moisture), but also know that a number of vehicles do measure oil temps. In a hard working engine (like pulling a heavy load), it seems there could be advantage in measuring and controlling oil temps. Comments?

Wish I had the time to order one of those at $148, but needed today. Found a dealer who's price was $170 and bought OEM. Got home and swapped it in, only to notice the plastic solenoid end cap is busted. On a new, fresh out of the box, OEM starter. The only one he had. Works really good, but looks like I'll be doing some surgery by swapping the old starter's solenoid cap onto the new starter. BTW, it sure made me cringe to put an OEM part into my American jeep that had a sticker on it that said "mitsubishi". AaRRRGHHH !

Usually choice #1, when not NLA, but your dealer is apparently more generous than mine. Dlr price here is $204 which puts it in the company of some of the higher performance units, and I was curious if anyone has experience with those.

So, after only 20 years of service, my starter bought the farm. Hammered it, then jumpered it with a screw driver and it just makes sparks. Would like my next starter to last at least 20 more years, what are my options?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-T ... 14&vxp=mtr

If you get in touch with these folks: http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/ right here in Orlando, or better yet go visit them, they can probably tell you everything you ever wondered about injector interchange and application.

It's a sign of the times I suppose. Seems that being knowledgeable is no longer a requirement for the person who answers a business phone. I've had good success salvaging a rear seal from JY, working very slowly. Once I got my spare, I've passed up a good number of others. I doubt they're available new any more.

See this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24509&hilit=hub+removal

I'm looking for the bead-like trim piece that surrounds the hockey handle where it abuts the door panel, making an assumption that it is a separate piece. I will paint them, just as was done in the thread. My doors don't have this trim, and they would like to. Thanks!

Just like the one shown in the picture halfway down this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32538 I've never seen those. Want both sides if anyone has a pair. Thanks!

I used a chop saw with a metal blade for the bushings, and a sawzall for the axle brackets. I don't like angle grinders because I'm more prone to "oops" with one. And, the ride difference is definitely noticeable. I think this is a first rate mod.

Cost me about $200 for this stuff:http://www.huperoptikusa.com/ceramic-series.cfm i recommend it highly.

I've pondered the stroker topic for a few years, and every time I think about starting to assemble the pile of parts, that old addage pops into my head: "Speed {power} costs money, how fast would you like to go?" And I'm sure there's a corrollary that says; The higher the HP/TQ, the shorter the life. How long would you like it to last? And then there's (for the do it your selfer) the uncertainty factor, no matter how much you plan ahead, there's a good chance that factors will conspire to cause you more time and money than you planned.

On a flat highway at 70 mph, I got slightly better mileage with 3.08 than 3.54, provided I didn't stuff my foot into it when loaded (like a slight grade). The RPM with 3.08 was just under 2000, and the RPM with 3.54 is just under 2300. From that, I concluded that 2000 RPM was a more efficient point for "low load" cruising. Add load and all bets are off. Knowing that Ad is going to kick me at higher speed, I was hoping to maybe just break even if could achieve ~2000 RPM at 80 mph. Yes it's 20 years old, but yes I've made new most all of the age-related risk points I can think of, and handles quite well at that speed. It's past the limit of my understanding whether the diff capability of the NP242 could tolerate that much difference in ratio between front output and reduced rear output, but would not be using 4WD at highway speeds, and very unlikely to be accidentally shifted there. Maybe once I add the cable shifter it won't be quite so stiff. Is it reasonable to expect that lower rpm's equate to less wear/longer life? I know the I6 lasts forever, but 1.15 x forever is even better.

The NSG370 six speed manual from the 2005-2006 Wrangler (last year for I6?) has a final ratio of 0.84. The AX-15 final ratio is 0.79. So, for me, with 29" tires, it works out like this: At 80 mph with 3.54 and 0.79 I will turn 2600 rpm At 80 mph with 3.08 and 0.84 I will turn 2400 rpm Doesn't seem like enough gain for the cost/effort. The Gear Vendors unit final ratio is 0.58 (if only I could have one) If I could have one, my rpm with 3.54 at 80 mph becomes only 1910 Or viewed the other way, for 2600 rpm I could be doing 110 mph! (totally ignoring wind drag)

Wish I would have thought of this option BEFORE I pulled and discarded my 3.08 axles. Seems like a possible solution, although curious if/how the six speed fits between the 4.0 and the NP-242.

Wife bought him a stroker motor as a birthday present?? With an aluminum head ?!? Where do you find those girls?

When you checked the track bar, was the truck raised or on the ground? When this happened to me, I was hearing/feeling a "SNAP" that sounded for all the world like a cracked frame. Rather alarming. With the truck on the ground, and my 230lb 6'4" son sawing the wheel HARD from side to side, motion was visually almost indetectable but the noise was pinpointed to the track bar mount at the frame. Poorly tightened nut (at a shop) led to an elongated hole. It was obvious after pulling the bar. Suggest you borrow my son (or equivalent) and check one more time to see if you can locate the source of the noise. If you can hear it in the cab, should be able to find it from below.

A great many decades ago, I had an MGB-GT with an electric overdrive. Loved it! I now have this lust for something similar to hang on the back of an NP242 T-case. Trouble is, it seems that the only company still standing (Gear Vendors) that makes such a critter cannot, does not, will not, make one for Jeep. I've had some discussion with them, and they say the reason is because the D-shaft will reduce in length for ~42" to ~31" and create a too severe angle. I told them I could probably deal with angle correction (spring perches and T-case mount) but got nowhere. Has anyone else ever tried to cross this bridge? What I'm wishing for is a sixth gear for high speed highway travel.

Lug nuts are over-rated. If you drive fast enough, the forward momentum will inhibit lateral drift of lug-less wheels.