HOrnbrod

Sure would. And there's absolutely no illumination circuit in the steering column to tap into, so you'd have to snake a wire down through the column. Heck with it.........

Thanks for the pics Twisty. Do you remember how the indicator light mounted? Probably inside the shift indicator I would think. Then there is the problem on how to run the wire. Think I'll slide up to the yard tomorrow and see if there's one there.

You'll need a fuel pressure tester kit like the Actron CP7818. Connect the gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, start the engine. Pressure should read 31 psi w. the vacuum line connected to the regulator; 39 w. it disconnected. If this is okay, the fuel pump is doing it's job, and your problem is most likely elsewhere.

I thought that rig was from CO??

Ay Bilot! WTF is this world coming to?? Doesn't anyone like chrome anymore? Maybe I'm over the hill now......... EDIT: Hell no! Like all automotive cycles, chrome will return. And soon...... :beerhead:

Seriously Wade, if it's only 60 miles away, it's a no-brainer to take go a peek at it. What'll it cost ya? Maybe 8 gallons if you take the MJ? You could be pleasantly surprised.

:jump: The engine block might survive.............

Before you take the plunge and buy a new pump, change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done in recent memory, and do a pressure test at the fuel rail. Both a clogged filter and/or a bad fuel regulator can cause your symptoms. Might save some $$ and time. :cheers:

Why oh why would anybody want to paint over beautiful polished s/s brightwork?? :nuts: I think I'm having a coronary............. :eek:

I've seen two on MJs; the window on both was built into the steering column shroud, just like the old column shift Chebby PowerGlide columns. 'Course that does not mean there can not be variations like there is in anything else. :eek: Can you post some pics showing how yours mounts on the column shroud? And what is the pointer attached to? EDIT: I just checked my 81-86 parts manual, and you are exactly right Twisty. But it looks like this is only for the 1986 column shift MJs. Nice thing about these is that they have an indicator light; mine does not. It's hard to tell in the parts manual how the this light and the pointer is mounted though. Next time I'm in the yard I'm going to have to check this out.

Thanks very much for the offer, however, regretfully, I must decline. :roll: Off to the druggies tomorrow to scrounge up a syringe.......... :eek:

If you don't have a 0-1" micrometer, best way is to use an adjustable wrench so it just slips over the bar, then measure the wrench gap w. a metric ruler. For the s/b mounting bushings, I like rubber better. For the poly bushings I was referring to the s/b end link bushings.

Don't remember if your rig is lifted, but it could be the end of the stabilizer bar hitting the coil spring, or the end link bushings themselves are shot. The end links for the 1992 XJ/MJ sway bars are about 1-1/2" longer than the previous links; sometimmes the longer end links are all you'll need for coil spring clearance. This is one of the few places I prefer polly over rubber bushings. And of course check the stab bar mounting bushings too.

I think I'm going to try the syringe method on a flat surface, after practicing with colored water or something. I suck at doing anything with an artist's brush. :oops:

Correct. But the shift indicator is an integral part of the steering column; you'd have to change out whole column.

It fits right over the wheel weld pinch weld, but that looks easily modded to fit. Prolly should make up some backing plates too like the factory ones had. Gonna look great on your rig. :cheers:

It's the original column. The shift indicator is an aftermarket unit made by Ididit for the Chevy 3-speed Turbo Hydra-Matic TH200/700R4 trannys, but it lines up perfectly w. the AW4's shift positions .

That's a good idea. ;) But how well will the paint stick to the aluminum?

Stuck a Buick Turbo Regal steering wheel on my rig awhile back, but the Buick emblem always bugged me. I tried various stick-ons, coverups, etc. but everything looked like crap. Finally had a friend turn a aluminum billet center button, and then drilled and tapped in some 1/4" x 20 cap screws. Before: After 1: After 2: Now I want to paint in the recessed JeeP logo and circle in black - what's the best way to do this?

X2. Can you post a pic on how it sits on the wheel wells?

All you ever wanted to know about MJ clocks, and more: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm

Yes, it will fit w. the stock air box. It's the 1997+ washer bottle installed in the inner fender. I did a writeup on it here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5840&highlight= Frees up a lot of space.

Here's how I did mine - might help you out. :cheers:

Looks to be in good shape. If you retain your existing MJ combination valve like I did, just pick up a 24" length of 3/16" brake line, and you can bend new lines from the m/c to the combo valve reuseing the existing fittings. Of course, you'll need a tubing bender tool and good flare tool too.

Yes, my 91 did the same going up hills and overheated too. Turned out to be a clogged cat.