Cheech

I was able to get mine off by using a 1/4" drive deep socket (can't remember the size) with an extension on a 1/4 drive screwdriver. It will be at a bit of an angle, but you can get it onto the nut enough to turn it and not round it off.

Permatex "Right Stuff" on mine instead of the cork or rubber gasket. No leaks.

i will do this in the daylight first thing. ---do you (or anyone) know the location in relation to the AIT sensor? and does it look similar to AIT? If you are looking at the intake air temp sensor, which is located in the top of the intake manifold, look down on the drivers side of the intake manifold back towards the firewall. It might be hard to see, but it will be there. And yes, it does look very similar as it also uses a 2 wire plug.

Check the coolant temp sensor. It is located in the back part of the intake manifold. The seal could be leaking.

Okay cool! I would probably just find an entire vehicle and swap everything I need over. What model years am I confined to? And does it have to come from a 2.5?

Nope, I would actually prefer a manual anyways. Whats involved in swapping over other than the pedals and hydraulics and such? Any wiring?

So I'm getting kinda tired of the three speed auto in my MJ. Without the extra gear it revs like crazy on the highway. Also the previous owner removed the kickdown or throttle valve linkage to the trans so it up shifts far too early and really bogs down. It also will not downshift going up hills either. What are my options if I were to swap out this three speed or should I try to find a replacement linkage?

The front axle disconnects fine during warm weather, but when its cold outside the axle will not disconnect when you go back into 2wd. Accordingly, the indicator light stays on as well. Is this a vacuum issue, or is something just sticky?

Yes, I would recommend using the torque values for the composite gasket. I started a topic about the torque values when I replaced the gaskets in my 86. Basically, we came to the conclusion that the different values listed in the Haynes for the different years was based upon the gasket type used and not a difference in the block itself. I torqued mine to the higher amount, can't really remember the exact number, but it was over 100 and have had no problems. If you think about it, it makes sense that you want the higher amount because you need to crush that composite gasket to make it seal. With the steel gasket, it is the sealant that does the sealing. I would recommend just using the composite style, I doubt the other style is still made. My gasket set from Carquest (victor reize gaskets) came with the composite.

Just remember: There are two different torque values depending on which gasket type is used. There is a value for using the stamped steel gasket and one for using the composite type. If using the composite type the value is up around 100.

Once it gets cold out, the ignition lock cylinder on my MJ get hard to turn, almost like its gummed up. But this only happens once the temperature approaches freezing, in the warmer weather its fine. What could be sticking?

It can be turned out, but because it is not working properly it will then idle far too high once it is warm.

Hey Pete, here are the pics of the actuator on my 86 2.5. The plunger moves in and out (or it should anyways, lol) to adjust idle speed.

Well, I managed to lose all the pictures I took when I pulled my engine out. I will take some in the morning for sure and post them here. :thumbsup:

Lol, Thats alright. :cheers: It actually does move the plate open a bit. I have a picture here somewhere, I'll try and find it.

But that little motor is electric right? It never seems to move and open the throttle like it should for cold starting. It actually never moves at all. :D

I should also add, that I ask this because the one in my 86 does not work at all, everything is fine once it warms up, but when its cold you have to put something onto the throttle to keep the rpms up.

Not meaning to hijack this thread, but is there a way to test this component? Is there a way to test if the ISA is defective or if the problem lies elsewhere?

First thing I would do is make sure you have oil in that diff. Then go from there. If its been running dry, it could be beyond fixing.

Possibly, if there was enough water inside it could have froze and pushed the seals. But I'm guessing that its just coincidence. At low temps the gear oil is very thick and reluctant to flow. Usually if there is a leak it will show itself when the oil is hot and thin.

Could it be a bad high/low dimmer switch? Bad ground?

One night a few weeks ago when I was driving I flipped on my highbeams, and shortly after all my lights (dash, running, highbeams, tails, etc) all went out. When I flipped back to low beams, everything came back to normal. Everytime I turned on my highbeams, I lost all lighting. Last week I tried the highbeams again and everything seems to be back normal again. I even used the highbeams for an extended period of time and nothing acted up. What could be the issue?

While kinda on the topic of RTV, has anyone ever tried "the right stuff" made by permatex? I used to use Ultra Black all the time, but have switched to this stuff. Its more expensive, but come in a caulking tube and takes no time to cure either where Ultra Black takes 24 hours. I really like it, and have never had anything leak!

Okay that makes sense. I let it run for approx 5 mins, and the heater hoses did get nice and hot and there was heat inside the cab. I was just concerned because those small heater hoses and the upper rad hose seem to be a little higher than the rad. I also have a digital temp gauge and was using it too. The thermostat housing was getting hot, but it never reached 195 before I turned it off.

So, for anyone that has been following any of my posts over the last few months, I finally got my 2.5 put back together and fired it up tonight. Runs Great. But I have a question regarding warm up time, specifically, how long does it usually take untill the top rad hose should get warm? I am just worried about getting an air bubble caught somewhere and destroying all my hard work.