AeroNautical

She's a workin truck again!

$80 for 4.10 ratio D30 ring and pinion? I assume for high pinion. Someone jump on those

The rag was just to contain the mess if it happened again. The high side quick connect doesnt actually blow off the nipple when it happens, it blows out around the o ring. I'm using an r12 to 134 conversion kit, and the high and low side ports from the r12 are just adapted to the 134a q/c. Ill see if I can't get a picture up a bit later.

I've done an OBD1 HO conversion on my 88 MJ 4.0, and since the dash had to come out anyway, I added all the necessary A/C components. Stock routing for the 93 XJ it all came out of. Brand new components. I can get a vacuum on the system with no problem, -30 IN HG for hours without the needle moving. Oil was in the system, so I started the truck, turned the compressor on and it runs beautifully. I start adding my first can of R134a ( I did the R12 to 134 conversion) and about 30 seconds into adding the can the high side fitting ruptures and shoots freon and PAG everywhere. The system itself is fully intact, it was the high side quick disconnect that blew. I replaced the O-Ring in the fitting and tried it again. Same issue, this time with a rag around the fitting, that oil is some nasty stuff. Obviously the high side is building pressure, it seems too much. Ideas? Thanks

Rattlers, cottons, coppers, widows, recluses, even the occasional gator. It seems as though there is a mutual understanding out here, though. You could walk over a cotton mouth and if it's just relaxing, it won't even be phased, as long as you leave it alone.

Learned alot from this guy over the years, glad to see him working on an MJ.

It almost looks like a heat sync, to cool the air as it's venturied into the intake manifold. Thats ridiculous though, it probably has something to do with strength.

Thanks, I thought the same thing when I got em. I'm really not a fan of those large light bars, they may be useful in come situations, but the majority of people I see with them have it as a status thing... Y'know, mall crawlers, mostly JKs. That wouldn't be a bad idea, but the paint is alot worse than it looks in the picture. Cracking and chipping paint from years of sun. When I took the fender flares off, I got a real glimpse of the original color of the truck. A really nice dark, glossy blue. I'd kill to have that color again, it would look fantastic.

It's been awhile since I've updated this. Since last time I've upgraded to High Output everything, got new shoes for the old girl and plenty more to come. She's been collecting dust in my driveway the last couple years and I didn't like it. The donor: A 93 XJ My MJ and its birdnest: The flywheel change: Mostly put back together, fixing the cancer is for another day: Engine bay about finished up, and I added A/C: Getting her ready to be a semi daily again: Pretty stocky truck: She needs the floors fixed, the paint redone, a locker for the front, shocks, this that and the other. Still alot of work to do to her, but she is coming along. Feels good to work on a Jeep again.

After many a month, its been fixed. Turns out to have been a bad splice in the alt field wire, something a PO must have done. I went through every wire, glad to finally have found the problem. And hey, no more check engine light.

I did, with two other relays. No avail

I know it's normal, my point was more about the ignition switch doing what it's supposed to do, but an intermittent no crank. Perhaps whats causing this issue could be related to the alternator not charging. Also, swapping that relay with 2 others did nothing, unfortunately.

Would an auto shut down cause an intermittent starting issue too? Sometimes at random I turn the key and it won't turn over, but will max the gauges out. And other times it turns over and starts fine, seems like it could be a sticking relay or something.

Remanned computer, another new alternator and new battery. Relays and fuses checked again, ground and wires tested. I crank her over annndddddd.... 12.32 volts running. I don't know what to do. The field circuitry is getting the proper ohmage, too.

Well I do appreciate it, I'll get back to you if I need it. I was lucky and found one the other day, won't be able to install it for a few days though.

Hmm, that's more of a hassle than I'd want you to go through, not to mention I seem to remember you live in Canada. The money conversion would probably be a pain, too. I may try rockauto, like DirtyComanche mentioned. Thanks for the offer, gogmorgo.

How much would it cost for you to part ways with it? It's proving to be difficult to find one around here in junkyards, and they won't sell me one at an auto parts store without a serial number, which of course mine doesn't have, the sticker is worn off. They also want mileage, which I'm sure these computers didn't store.

Alright, this is a last resort. Did XJs ever come with any kind of computer security system? And would a 95 PCM work with a 93 wiring harness? If replacing the computer doesn't work either, I'll be completely out of ideas.

2.5 OHMs engine off, and about 6 running at idle. Cleaned up the ECU connections nice, they weren't bad at all. Even the external regulator isn't charging anymore, which is why I am assuming my new alternator is also bad.

Roger, I'd like to fix the problem, but that probably won't happen without tearing apart the harness. The external voltage regulator isn't even charging anymore. I'm tempted to just put my renix style alternator bracket and alt on and rig up a harness.

They are there, they route up to the engine bay harness at a connector. The picture doesnt show it very well. The regulator he used just had two ring terminals ontop of the field terminals. It is still connected to the engine harness in this picture.

This is what I've got: Sorry for the hard to read overlay, but there is what I assume is a bracket on that black insulation that has no continuity over ground or positive. Ground is good, and I'm getting 12 volts from the B+ terminal wire. The field terminal seems to have a varying voltage, which would make sense I suppose. The external voltage regulator is not charging the battery, anymore, either. I'm thinking my third new alternator is fried. My patience is going the same way.

Signs are pointing to the little black box connected to the alternator. Can't buy it new, can it be bypassed? Are there any kind of electronics inside of it?

Sorry, edited my last post. I'm also getting 41 (An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit) That sounds like my problem. Is that ANOTHER bad alternator?

I'm getting 34 (cruise control)12 (battery d/c in last 50 cycles) and 55. It didn't even have cruise control, haha. Edit: I'm also getting 41 (An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit) That sounds like my problem. Is that ANOTHER bad alternator?