Akula69

the quote in my sig is from Mark Martin during testing at Las Vegas earlier this year. The worst thing i've done (so far) was forgetting to set the parking brake while sitting in a friend's sloping driveway. Wasn't a problem until we put the truck in neutral to install the new carpeting. Good thing he lives on a cul-de-sac. My pardon sir...no insult intended :cheers:

Thanks for the stories...it does make one feel slightly better. I looked at the body lines when the door is almost closed - the hesitation that I felt yesterday is because the bottom of the door is rubbing on the plastic cover mounted on the door opening. I must raise the door several inches to get it to come even close to the latch. Otherwise, when the door is engaged the rear of the door (door-handle end) is depressed about 1/4 inch below the cab body. Otherwise the body contour lines (from front to rear) are pretty much in alignment (which makes no sense if the door has to rise vertically). I tried the 2x4 and it raised the top hinge on the door at the hinge end flush with the fender. Otherwise it had no other effect. If I did not know better I'd say the hinges got moved down in the impact, but that makes no sense as the forces were pushing it back, not down. The vehicle still refuses to start, it will turn over but not catch. When it died I was preforming a brake test for 'panic braking', where I accellerated up to approximately 25 MPH then jammed on the brakes. It died precisely when the MJ came to a full stop. I have replaced: plugs, rotor, distributor cap, wires, fuel filter. The CPS was recently replaced by the PO, but I have another that I will install tomorrow (hopefully). I do hear the fuel pump starting when the key it turned, and I am getting 39 PSI on the fuel rail upon cranking. The vehicle was running fine after the replacement of the items shown. Ideas are welcome! Also, (even though it makes no sense because of the pressure at the fuel rail) does anyone know if the 89 model came with a inertia fuel shut off? Would disconnecting the battery (in an attempt to reset the ECM) do any good? If so, how long to leave it open before re-connection?

I saw a post in here about a MJ owner that had 'accidently' inserted his screwdriver into the radiator, another who had driven his car into the back of the garage at 20MPH...and now I have done one better: My son and I replaced the E-brake lines on the Christmas MJ today, and while in the process of allowing the drums to self adjust (read: driving foward and backward till the adjusters do thier thing) the truck died....just stalled in place like the last time, except I was on my street. It would not re-start. So, we started to push it home. Backwards. I was on the drivers side with the door open...steering and pushing. I saw the mailbox on the shoulder...and didn't think about the door being open...and the door hit it, bending the door back against the fender. :mad: :headpop: :mad: . Needless to say, words were spoken...without good result. It was my fault. So, we finished pushing it back, and I took the door off and pounded the hinges back into thier holes. The door was not badly damaged, but even with the hinges back in place it does not want to shut properly. (read: you gotta force it to close). So the question: Has anyone had experience on resetting the door hinges or aligning the doors on our rigs? The door has proper spacing in relation to the fender and the cab, and will close most of the way, but does not line up with the strike, and when you push it upwards to the strike it acts like there is an object that is holding it from closing. And, I had to fix the damned mailbox as well. :oops:

Hmmm. Well I'm with him Brent - thats the ones I would want (if I had the money!). But can you post the schemantic for the operable vent window seals as well?

Gawd ! reading that gives me a headache !

X2 - I am interested to see what we can do. Do volume discounts apply? :brows:

This is gonna sound kinda silly, but can you pressurize it (even just a little air pressure would do) and spray liquid soap on the outside and look for bubbles?

Man...what a bummer. And I thought it was bad when I went to ask my wife's dad if I could have his blessing to marry her. She looked pissed.

Agreed. all you guys do a great job in answering questions... :cheers:

OK - I see what you did...great innovation. But - if you use the MJ cables going from the plate (where the equlaizer is) back to the drums, and then use the lever and cable from the XJ it appears to have plenty of cable. did you not try that first? Or, are you referring to the cable eating problem...and needed the extra slack to stop that? Luckily, my transmission tunnel has a bolt-on plate where the ebrake and floor shifter will go so no cutting required. Even given that, I still wonder if the plate is the same, or needs to be moved.

Thanks to BLHTAZ, we are on our way to actually having an operable E-Brake system on the Christmas truck. When we first got it there were no brakes :eek: . My son and I recently replaced the front bearings and pads, but when we got to the back we noted the e-brake cables were physically removed from the drums, and appeared to have been chewed up by contact with the back of the rims. In the process of shoe replacement I re-installed the cables, which promptly began getting chewed again by the rims. Lacking the little cable-holding key that bolts to the frame (and looks like an oversized spam can opener), I zip tied the cables back. When we started to adjust the equalizer, the main (pedal to bracket under vehicle) cable started to unravel (in a most violent way) I hope to correct the cable eating problem and convert from pedal to lever. I searched the forums but could not locate a link that describes the conversion from a pedal to a lever (tunnel mounted) E-Brake. I have a lever E-brake, cable and equalizer from an XJ the same year as the christmas truck, but wondered if I will need the mounting plate as well. The XJ plate looked the same and appeared to work the same. Can anyone advise on (1) if thier rims were hungry for e-brake cable also and how they fixed it, and (2) have they any knowledge on the pedal to lever conversion? Eventually I will move both the e-brake and the shifter to the tunnel (when I can afford the tilt column). I am getting ready to seriously dismantle this MJ and start the rebuild soon, I will post the progress. :cheers:

maddzz, bad experience with teamcherokee? wolfpack, wholesalemopar.com has them in individual pieces whereas you have to buy all the pieces with teamcherokee. fyi, if you need all the pieces, the price works out the same with either supplier. Teem cherokee is just over-priced, IMHO. I know you are getting orig. MOPAR, but for 50 % less you can get pretty much the same quality from JCWhitney.

If you are really worried about it you could install a hasp and padlock on the inside of the bed/tailgate. I know it would look bad, but not visible from outside. Would it keep them from getting it? probably not if they had a bolt cutter. But it would really mess up the gate otherwise.

You can try JC Whitney...just look under the seal sets for the front door(s) for the 4 door XJ and you'd be right.

Yeah well, if you scroll to the bottom and click on "go to my other pages' you get some message about him wanting your "manmeat" not my style. :popcorn:

hmmm...the last time I went grinding with shorts on.....lets just say I hopped up really quickly!! :eek:

X2 or is there something I need to know about autozone? :redX:

Hmmm...I'd be taking a photocopy of all the revelant paperwork and keeping the origs in a safe deposit box. That way, you can always find them (as long as you remember which bank!). Good luck with that Pete :cheers:

6X thanks...seen too many that didn't make it.

Probably close to 500 each - they have a butter creme icing. and they are darn good :brows:

10.5 years on a fridge is not a long time for normal life, but is when you consider the mechanical and energy efficency improvements that have been made. We moved our 12 year model out to the garage and the first thing I noticed with the new one was it did not run nearly as long (hopefully saving energy :D ).

Geez, all I wanted was a little plant matter..... :D Yeah, I would get a better deal if it's less then 3.00/lb because the stuff they send down here is scrawney and really sour...even when they actually have it, which is rare. I was kinda hoping one of the guys would have it growing in his yard and wouldn't cost him anything. My mother-in-law makes the pies and it keeps her busy...and happy, which is a good thing. And no, I don't do crack. I'm a cop, and besides, it ruins your teeth. :D

three my lord...three! (apologies to Shrek)

You mean you won't share? :eek:

Yes its sour. And, I usually add some La. strawberries to the mix to sweeten it up, plus a little sugar. It is available here, but they charge about 3.00/lb for the stuff. and I miss the pie...