Sir Sam

Took a sick day from work and ran down to the junkyards to grab some things. Got a glove box, the a pillar trim, foot kick panels, 3 switch panel for fogs(someone took the switch but left the panel, but you can’t add the switch to the non fog panel. And I have the 4 switch panel coming anyways, so it’s more for the rarity and the use on the yellow Jeep. Got a shifter handle that is better, still no shifter bezel, it was already gone. ECU was gone, Jeep has been our 2-3 days and the ECU gets pulled right away! I got the parking brake adjuster I needed, I installed it, but I need to tighten and adjust before the parking brake works, but it’s damm close! So at this point I can continue putting together the interior, I can get the radiator and such installed. I got the exhaust pipe on to the cat, but I need to drill out some old bolts to get the cat to mount up now. Tomorrow I warranty a battery at Costco and I will have a fresh group 65 to start this thing with. Then I will get the cooling stack bolted up, fluids filled, and run it awhile. This is assuming the noise is reasonable with just a stock cat and no muffler. I got it to start and run much nicer, I think the timing was a little off. I made sure #1 was at TDC, verified it with the crank pulley notch, and then checked the cam pickup. The cam pickup wasn’t exactly right since I couldn’t skip the timing pin in. I loosened the holder bolt, took the Hall effect sensor off, and turned it a little until the timing pin went in. Now it starts right up and runs, a little rough and very loud. But It’s starting and running correct! I had to replace all the injector o rings, and I was missing some retainer clips, and because of the missing clips and age some of the prints weee leaking. Orielly has a set of new ones for like $6. I bought both sets they had in stock, one to use and then the next for when I fukked up. Coming together, hoping to have a bunch of pictures and video to share tomorrow, hopefully with it running.

Small milestone. Manage to get the engine to fire! Finished up messing with the fuel system, got the fuel pump assembly in, fuel hose run, made up a connection for the front fuel hose. Had to solder a wiring harness onto the 96 XJ pump since the one I got from the junkyard someone had cut the wires off of. Tested it, not working, figured out I had no ground from a ground lug that should be back by the tail lights. Stuck the ground to the body pump fired right up. Tested float, fuel gauge reads. Having some battery issues having a good battery to crank it. Got a couple of jumper batteries on it and connect good and got it to turn over quickly. Got some firing to happen but not much, seems like it would get an initial catch and then nothing. Screwed around with it awhile with about the same results, some backfiring, etc. took a break to watch some tv with my dad before heading home for the night. After wards went back out and had the same thing happen, this time instead of him doing the throttle by hand I used my foot inside the cab to regulate the throttle. Manage to get it to catch and run without dying for a few seconds! I quickly turned it off since it was 10pm and freaking loud without the exhaust all hooked up. One step closer. Still lots to do. Going to make another junkyard run Saturday morning and hopefully grab some interior bits, the bit I need for the parking brake to work, and maybe a new fuel rail. I have a leak at injector #1 and it seems that the injectors seems missing their retaining clip.

Small milestone today. Manage to get the engine to fire! Finished up messing with the fuel system, got the fuel pump assembly in, fuel hose run, made up a connection for the front fuel hose. Had to solder a wiring harness onto the 96 XJ pump since the one I got from the junkyard someone had cut the wires off of. Tested it, not working, figured out I had no ground from a ground lug that should be back by the tail lights. Stuck the ground to the body pump fired right up. Tested float, fuel gauge reads. Having some battery issues having a good battery to crank it. Got a couple of jumper batteries on it and connect good and got it to turn over quickly. Got some firing to happen but not much, seems like it would get an initial catch and then nothing. Screwed around with it awhile with about the same results, some backfiring, etc. took a break to watch some tv with my dad before heading home for the night. After wards went back out and had the same thing happen, this time instead of him doing the throttle by hand I used my foot inside the cab to regulate the throttle. Manage to get it to catch and run without dying for a few seconds! I quickly turned it off since it was 10pm and freaking loud without the exhaust all hooked up. One step closer. Still lots to do. Going to make another junkyard run Saturday morning and hopefully grab some interior bits, the bit I need for the parking brake to work, and maybe a new fuel rail. I have a leak at injector #1 and it seems that the injectors seems missing their retaining clip.

So I'm picking up this switch panel for the MJ: The 4 position panel I'm buying has the rear fog switch! So when I get this installed in the MJ I will have from left to right, Mirror defroster, Front fog, Ext Idle, Rear Fog. Now, what is Ext idle and Rear fog you may ask? Good question! For those not aware the police version XJs came with a switch from the factory that raised the idle while the Jeep was running. There is a wire on the PCM that when grounded will raise the idle rpm up. Factory switches for the extended idle are very rare, maybe someday I will find one. But for now aftermarket will have to do. Aftermarket switches with custom text can be purchased relatively cheap. However the text on these switches is not illuminated like a factory switch is. Rear fog? Yup! Rear facing fogs are a common thing on european market vehicles, as in every vehicle has them. The rear fog switch is functionally the same as the front fog switch, however the icon is different. Front fog faces left, as in the above picture, and rear fog faces right. Subtle difference I know, but what it means is that I will have factory switches for forward facing fog lights and rear facing fog lights. I don't know exactly what I will control with the rear facing fog lights, might even just use it to control my backup LED flood pods at times other than reverse. But I have the option, and its going to be clean and factory like. I hate seeing holes drilled in random places for all sorts of mis matched and janky switches and wiring around. Other uses of the switch panel could be to have a switch that runs your cooling fan for awhile after shutoff, heat soak is definitely an issue for me and I tend to leave the jeep idling for awhile when I get to the top of a pass.

Slow progress, some things have been fighting me. One small step forward, fuel pump sender. Whoever said you could use the fuel pump sender from a 96 was smoking crack. The resistance ranges are completely wrong for the 97+ gauge cluster. What I did was swap the float arm from the 96 XJ sender, since it seems to have the correct travel for the MJ tank, on to the 97+ sender, then I cut the mounting bracket off of the 97+ Xj pump body so it will hold the sender. Then I cut away some metal on the 96XJ sender mount to clear the XJ sender plastic. Then I mounted the XJ aluminum mount for the sender onto the 96Xj steel mount where the XJ sender was. So now the 97+ XJ sender is mounted in the 96XJ pump housing, which is bent to the right to clear the baffle. I'm going to grab another 96XJ pump assembly, and then look at cleaning up my MJ sender, and hybridizing them with a 97+ sender to sit inside the baffle. But that will come later, I think I have a "get it running solution" right now.

Pete, I have a bunch located here: http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/ And I am happy to add any more that people can point out for me, I'm happy to be a mirror for all of the manuals you can find. Likewise anyone who wants to scan a paper manual I would gladly host.

So I used the lift to raise the front of the truck, raised the jackstands up, and rolled the engine under. Then I used the lift to lower the truck down onto the jackstand at a lower point. Sitting on the motor mounts: Had to get my laptop out to mess around with wiring and figure some things out. I had a blown fuse in the PDC, then I tracked down a ground that wasn't there to a couple of loose ground wires on the engine by the alternator I forgot to tighten. After I did that I got CCD bus comms working and was able to read DTCs and reset the CELs. Got all cleared except for the fuel gauge voltage out of range. And........I messed around with the 96XJ fuel pump sender and the gauge, whoever said the 96 sender works was full of $#!&. The ohms range is totally off. I have no idea how anyone has ever been able to use it and have it ready anywhere near correct. After messing with it......I am able to remove the float arm from the 96 XJ sender and install it into the 97+ XJ sender. Now the 97+ xj sender won't fit the 96XJ fuel pump at all.....So I am going to cut the sender bracket out of the 97+ assembly, screw to down to the modified 96 XJ pump, and then attached the 97+ sender with the 96XJ float arm. I have to say, out of all of this fuel pump crap, I'm really not happy with the solution. Depending on how it works out I might have to revisit the fuel pump implementation.

Personally I say go with the factory hood vents. Theres nothing like fit and finish of an OEM part doing what its meant to do: You can also find these on the Orvis edition ZJ and the 5.9 ZJ. These hood vents are relatively common in the UK, you can find them on ebay uk or from breakers in the UK. I've even seen complete hoods with the vents for sale for $50 or so on ebay uk, I don't need another set but I was tempted to ask if I bought the whole hood if they would remove the vents and ship them to the US.

With some of the original body steel pressings I wonder about using them to digitally scan and create 3D models of the original parts. A friend of mine worked for a company that would do exactly that, he went to Jay Lenos garage, scanned a fender for some super rare car, and then they were able to make an exact duplicate of it. My intention would be that as available of small scale production inscreases that we get 3d models of original parts so we can reproduce them. When things like MJ bedsides turn up, scan it, and then have it available as a 3d model for future use. Start to collect enough CAD information and we could have a virtual MJ(or XJ) body to be preserved for future use. A guy can dream right?

Comparing driveshafts, the painted one is a KJ driveshaft, which is basically the same length as XJ when you include the flange that bolts to the KJ 8.25. Undercoating on, fuel lines and brake line reinstalled, need a new fuel filter and some fuel injection hose. Need to bend the lines a little to clear, only one will be used for fuel supply, the other will be a vapor line to the charcoal canister. Man there is just something nice about clean stainless: Getting the seats cleaned up: I'll be getting the seats setup with the XJ power bases, this will help level the seats since the MJ floor raises at the back. This gives the feeling of sliding forward in the seat, with the power pedestal I can adjust and lower the back as needed. My seats also have the 2 door fold forward mechanism, which is nice for getting to stuff behind the rear seats. Had freerider weld in an 02 sensor bung in the 2001 XJ cat pipe, this will be needed for the rear 02 sensor since I am setting this up to be a 99/00 style for emissions. Stock transfer case skid that I suppose I will use. Engine goes in tomorrow!

They will phsyically bolt up, but the KJ 242 does not have a speedometer pickup on the tail housing......further, the KJ 242 output shaft does not have the gears cut to mesh with the speedo gear, so its not possible to swap in a common 231/242 tail cone from a XJ or ZJ to get the speedo gear, you would need the tailcone and the output shaft. At least thats the way it was for the 2005ish+ tcase. I have a new clean 7k mile 242 from a KJ that I was going to use in the MJ, when the MJ was going to be a diesel it didn't matter since I would use the speedo pickup on the rear diff since I have a KJ 8.25. But now that I am going 4.6 stroker I need that speedo. The WJs had the tail cone that had a place for the speedo pickup, but the opening wasn't machined out. My next thing to check is if a WJ 242 that has the blank spot has the machined shaft for the speedo gear. lots of WJ242s around. If the WJ 242 has it, there is a decent chance the early 02-04 KJs are also the same way, but with the WJ discontinued in 2005 the 2005+ KJ might be different. Just something else I need to check out the next time I'm at the junkyard. I have 2 good KJ 242s around, 3 if you count my wrecked CRD, and no spare XJ 242s.

Personally I prefer the 96+ transfer cases as they have a different tail cone with a seal, so you can remove the driveshaft and not have the T case lose oil. Might not seem like a big deal, but I've had to use my jeep as FWD when I had a ujoint/driveshaft failure. Overall not deal breaker, but might as well get the "better" parts when doing a swap. And with 1996+ 242s being a dime a dozen might as well grab one. I massaged the floor to clear the transfer case with my TJ Nv3550, you can also redrill the back of the trans to clock it lower. Plenty of meat there, when you get the trans you will see what I mean. I'm not sure the TJ clutch line will work in an XJ, or at least it may not fit nicely, keep your eye out for an XJ setup. XJ NV3550s are exceedingly rare, the manual trans went to special order only at that point. You had to specify your options and order the jeep from the dealer, so unlike the ax15 years, none just rolled off the line without a customer lined up for them.

Ya its just odd that they didnt put one of the sensors downstream of the final cat like the older ones did. Sure there are the two main cats, with upstream and downstream, that makes sense, its just odd to me to have no downstream o2 sensor after the final cat. Probably an engineering compromise since the 4 upstream got most of it, saves some money and complexity. I have extra O2 side plugs if you want one. You are talking about the grey connector correct? Can drop in the mail if you would like, not sure how much of a hurry you are in.

So I just did some of this yesterday. I have a 2001 harness, which is the same as 2000 california/export. I was able to unwrap the harness and move the upstream wiring from the injector cover to where it reaches the upstream. I also pulled back the downstream sensor wiring, but it reaches about as far as the other downstream, so thats not much help. If that doesnt reach then I will cut off the plug from one of the spare harness's around here, and use an old 02 sensor plug, and make an extension cord for the o2 sensor for the rear one. I also have a cat from a 2001, which is missing the downstream bung, because for some reason the downstream sensor was ahead of the second cat? freakin odd. So I bought a bung to weld on to it.

So I pressure washed the underside of the cab so I could undercoat it: Painting some things: Starting to undercoat: More paint: Just about done with kilmat: Kilmat on roof, and then foam stuck to kilmat: About done undercoating: Gears arrived, master install kit, and I have my 3.73 and up carrier. All ready to install and regear. I need to start installing some stuff to clear out this mess, I want to get the axle on the bench for doing the gears: I got the upstream O2 sensor moved in the harness to connect to the correct spot in the 99 exhaust. All the stuff I need to build the axle, except 1 ton steering stuff.

Ok after seeing what one person on naxja did for this I tried to follow suit, I bent the pickup to the right and then it cleared the baffle. Then I put the pump and sender back on to test fit, clearing the baffle, but the sender was hitting the side of the tank. So then I had to bend the sender and the pump mount back to the left. So it basically went like this, bend pickup to the right, bend pump and sender to the left. this way the pump and sender end up in parallel to where they were, just offset. This is the final bends: Using a camping pad to help level the floor so the carpet will sit a little flatter. New sway bar brackets, should clear the WJ steering. Beefy, though this is the type of thing I really should have spent some time to draw up and cut with the plasma table, but in the sake of time I just purchased. I also bought this rotor drilling guide to help drill the WJ rotors to fit the 5x4.5 unit bearings.

Rivnuts installed for parking brake and airbag computer bracket, marked where I knew I needed to cut the floor for the parking brake to exit. Mounted: I'm pleased with how this one turned out, about as nice as they come. The cables are in the stock MJ parking brake bracket, Its moved forward between the two more forward rails compared to where it was. I cut a piece of 3x2" box steel and sliced the ends so I could get to the bolts. There were already 4 bolt holes in the bed, 2 were used for the stock bracket, and 2 were unused. After a quick cleanout with a tap all 4 holes were ready for use. I cut the box and mounted it. Then I placed the stock bracket on this new spacer bar, and connected up the XJ parking brake cable, marked my forward/backward spacing, and then went to the bench top to drill it. Drilled and tapped 3 holes, using the same threads as the bed did. The bracket was already notched to clear the gad tank pickup. So its possible to remove and install the gas tank pickup with this bracket in place, maybe the short bed setup is a little different, but the stock bracket looks like its meant to go there. I used some cable clamps to help hold up the brake cables at the back going toward the axle. The cables are the stock KJ parking brake cables, plenty of length, feels like a factory setup. Brake cables routed through the factory MJ cable holder: All I'm missing is the stock XJ adjuster to connect the parking brake to the rear cables. Another minor junkyard part that I'm sure I have hiding in a bucket somewhere. Trying to use the 96XJ fuel pump and sensor assembly, it hits the slosh pan. Need some modification work to get this one going. Console mounted, screwed down to the plastic support bracket. This is where the console should sit in the final iteration, after the carpet and everything is installed finally. LP out, sitting on jack stands, going to roll the engine in from the front and then raise it up. Finished up with the new stainless steel line, I ended up modifying the rear XJ line to fit the MJ and then running it to the back. It gets me closer than the original MJ line did, which was patched with a compression fitting to get to the rear end. So even in I tried to use it I would need to correct the splice, but even then I was going to need to do some custom brake stuff in the rear since I have KJ disks with a SUA. Overall pretty good solution. The complete new stainless kit was like $120 from rock auto. Totally worth it for nice new stainless lines! Old fuel feed line will feed fuel now, old fuel return line will be part of the EVAP line back to the canister. Old vent line from tank vents removed, and new stainless brake line from XJ routed as the MJ line was. Just need a short bit of hose to connect the evap line to the back. Running all back like factory: This is where the XJ line ends, I'll likely straighten in, and then make a new custom line to connect with this XJ line: Heated mirror and foglights, no wiper. I have a 3 position panel around here, and I should have a 4 position panel hiding in some stuff somewhere. Mmmmmm stainless: Little bit closer each time: Carpet cleaned up pretty good all things considered:

Thanks! Junkyard punches a hole in the pan to drain fluid. Which sucks because there is a drain plug. Its really hard to find a pan without a hole punched in it. I cut a small bit of steel to try and patch it. We will see how that goes. Took awhile but I got the shifters installed, had to be careful, line them up with the holes that do cross over, and then drill some new ones. Little things can be a big PITA to get. https://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/build/content/images/large/IMG_6885.jpg]/img] Got the holes drilled for the shifter linkage pivot, transfer case shifter in place. Non-faded needles! Looking forward to seeing that power up. Ok this is the XJ parking brake setup, ill be using the center part with adjustment, with the MJ bracket, the KJ rear parking break cables, and the XJ front parking brake cable and handle. The MJ bracket is the exact some length as the XJ so this will work nicely. I will use some box steel to drop the bracket down into the right plane. MJ and XJ parking brake brackets: So there are two ways to do the parking break, some of the guys reuse the original parking brake cable, which I don't have in good order, mine was broken so I don't have that to start with. When they reuse the MJ cable they cut off the portion of the handle that sticks down through the floor and then make an "L" bracket that holds the cable inside, and the cable exits in the usual MJ location. I cut the lower portion off the handle to help me set it flat, so I could figure the correct places to mount the parking brake handle. Since I had more than one handle I took the more beat up one and cut it up, making it a sacrificial park for mock up. Here is the mockup handle in place so I could figure out where it needed to be for mounting. Bolted down on two bolts, have to bend the ear down a little on the 3rd: Then after much trial and error, and looking at the Yellow Jeep, I tweaked the airbag computer bracket so the airbag computer sits level. Then I marked the center of the holes, center punched, pilot drilled, main drilled, and then put in stainless steel M6 inserts. Interior harness, I started working on this a few years back, I need to finish up with the modifications for the interior harness and then figure out where to run it. Getting more and more complete, some interior stuff will need to come back off, but it makes me feel good seeing it installed in the truck. Fresh washed parts, ready to be installed: Fresh painted track bar and bracket: This NV242 from a KJ has something like 12K miles on it: Pressure washed some used carpet, seemed like it cleaned up pretty good, so I should be able to use it and cut it down. Tow hook bumper brackets waiting to be installed: Getting to be a real mess around here, projects tend to reach a critical mass where its in dissaray, and then they sort of come together and things start to align and clean up happens, I'm at the worst of the mess right now I think.....should get better from here.

Need to keep my brain occupied otherwise I will ruminate on the CF that is my personal life right now.

Ok, I'm pretty proud of this one. This is the XJ vin on the donor dash: And this is the Vin plate from the MJ dash: So I cut the vin plate out of the dash with the plastic around it: No pics of the next part, but what I did was heat up the old dash bit untill the vin plate with rivets was able to come out. So then I had a vin plate that was loose. So I went to my new dash and carefully drilled on the rivets untill the vin plate came off. However I was left with a bit of rivet in the plastic that refused to come out. So I heated it up a little and pushed it out the back. Then with my intact rivets and vin plate I put it up on the new dash, heated the rivet up while pushing on it with one leg of needle nose pliers, and used fireplace lighter to heat up the needle nose, the heat transferred down the plier leg to heat up the rivet, and then me pressing it at the same time pushed the rivet into the ABS plastic of the dash. The result is my original vin plate, with intact special rivets, firmly affixed to the new dash, as if it came from the factory that way. So I have 3 vin plates, firewall, dash, and the vin plate on the upper radiator support. Looks factory: Ok, I got the bigger foam cut for the HVAC box and the HVAC box installed. And then I got to installing stuff: So I'm cranking along. Pushing hard. I'm fukkin tired. Getting frustrated at little stuff. I got so many things going on at once and trying to get multiple things figured out at the same time, got my head spinning a little bit.

Started reassembling the engine bay. I need to get a little foam to seal around the large airbox opening for the heater core and AC evaporator before the HVAC box can go in. Otherwise I am just running all the little lines and such that I can around in the engine bay. Wiring harness's, etc. I will install the engine wiring harness onto the engine and trans combo, and then slide the transfer case, transmission, and engine in as one unit all connected, this is much easier than trying to install the wiring into the body and then into the engine once in situ. So I am very close to getting the dash installed, and very close to getting the engine installed. I am really looking forward to seeing some things look complete, engine bay, dash, both are within striking distance and will be awesome to see installed.

I cut the floor section from my donor XJ, and then use a spot weld cutter standing at my bench to drill out the spot welds. You have to cut a section in the middle to clear the ridge on the MJ floor, and remove a side brace from the MJ floor.

Did some sound deadener in the wheel wells as well. Some of the original firewall plugs were Caplugs from buffalo NY, this set I bought on Amazon also has some from them. Sort of fitting that a plug made in 1987 and a plug made in 2019 will find its way onto the MJ. Butyl sound deadener: Did a couple of more coats of the spray on Quietcoat, then started on the mat: I ended up putting a piece in the oven after making a pizza, it made it nice and warm which means soft and easy to apply, but cooled down quick since the body metal was in the lower 60s while pressing it down. Using the warm oven worked great to heat them up and make them easy to apply. This is as much as I will do for now, and will switch to installing the dash and engine bay stuff. I want to get the engine installed! The sound deadener is water based, so any place it can be exposed to water it needs to be coated to prevent contact, so I sprayed rubberized undercoating in several light coats to cover the sound deadener. Plus, I cannot imagine the $#!& I would get if I painted it red. Having a blast working on this. So glad to be bringing this project back home again. Been too @#$%ing long. I miss doing epic builds like this all the time.

Yes, fresh paint is always nice, and this is a color that really pops in the sun. Got to spraying the sound deadener tonight, I'll do some more coats tomorrow and then call it good. Floor looks kinda dirty, combination of UV fading POR15, overspray etc. Cleaned it up before spraying. Cleaned up the old foam around the shifters so the spray will stick there. Taped off the holes going to the engine bay to keep the sound deadener from getting sprayed all around. on the fresh paint.

Thanks! I dug out my spray on sound deadener, I ordered 10 gallons of this stuff in 2009 and was using it on my dads van extensively, I have had this unopened 5 gallon batch in the basement for a long time, I opened it to check it out and its still look good, just needs to be mixed up. So I'll be spraying that inside the cab tonight. Then I masked off to spray the frame rails and cross member black: I got the 160 amp alternator to fit last night, lots of grinding, and some of the alternator too, but its in place now! Pics of it finalized later.