Frankensteinsmj

check ebay!!!! I saw like 3 different models on there. I got one off of it. It was a husky class IV with 10k total weight and 1k tounge. Don't think I'll ever haul something that heavy but it sure makes a good bracket for pullin trucks out of the mud. :D

one thing you might try is unplugging the elec connector at the fan and run jumper wires to the battery/fan motor and check your volt meter. that might (not really sure) tell you if you have a short in your wiring. Someone might be able to tell you how to determine how to use the volt meter to determine the amount of amps your fan motor is drawing also.

mjeff, thanks, I have a m/t and my chilton's procedure is about the same. When I set it to .8 volts and start it the engine rev's really high so I don't know what's up with that. If I bump it down to about 7.5 volts it idles out ok. If you know anything about this let me know. thanks, Frank

I'd be very grateful if someone has a FSM on a 88 4.0 5 speed manche. I need to have someone take a quick look at the TPS setting info for me. TIA Frank

bump

First pull the coil wire from the distrib and check for spark that will tell if its spark related.

If you have a volt meter check the tps to see if its adjusted correctly.

cool, I havent seen a td yet

yeah, 210 might be because of the temp gauge unit is on a hot spot of the block. BTW, how's your dad's turbo diesel run? not to get off the topic

Yes I agree with water in the distrib cap. also you might have broken vacuum lines or knocked sending unit wires loose.

jeepco, first the chiltons book states 190 deg and that is about what I found in my kitchen experiment lab. Second. no it runs off the rad thermo-switch and the A/C switch.

200 bucks, that's a hard one. Since you opened up the exhaust you could gut the cat but think about it first becouse of state emmisions tests ect... and don't tell anyone I told ya either. Also, open up the air intake by a KN air filter if one is available or something similar. Tune it up and get that TPS set up for better wheel spin. A properly working h02 sending unit helps some too! well that's about all I can think of for around 200.

OK here goes, the electric stock fan is not coming on at 190 deg as it is supposed to. I did a search and found most just throw in a switch at the dash but I'm trying to get it to work off the radiator thermo-switch. It won't come on with the a/c on either because of a low freon charge. This is what i've done. I took the rad switch out and tested it for continuity in a pot of water on the stove and it works at around 190 deg. I took a jumper wire and jumped the connector that plugs into the rad switch and the fan runs so that tells me that the fan, the relay and everything else is working except the switch! I even went thru the closed rad cooling system bleeding thinking there was air in the rad but that didn't work either. Soooo, My temp gauge was up to 230 deg (it runs cool but I blocked the rad so it would run hot) so it should of come on, at least you would think or ????? Any ideas anyone? I got the truck painted so I've got to get another pic on here. Just put a new fuel tank in and replaced the rear drive shaft u joints with HD off road ones too! TIA Frank

Anyone have info on a good fitting/looking seat cover for our bench seats?????? TIA Frank

pulling the ol puker and gonna tear it down and see if I can find out what is making all that clicking noise. Any links would be great. I'm suspecting it to be the bearing on the front for the input shaft.

Rick, yes I know all about the set backs. I can't move forward with my manche project either. I'll be replacing the pukegoat now. It went south but one of the members is selling me one. So when I make a all day trip to get and find the time off from work i'll be putting it in. I called the local junk yard and they tell me $650 for a used ba10/5 and $300 clams to install it. It's like someone stated "decent folk don't drive these things" I'm finally at the point of completing my body work "would have a long time ago if I had a garage to do it in" but anyways I'm gonna shoot it in the hot rod primer with a spray gun as soon as I find the time after getting the pukegoat installed. I've been 3 years now with my MJ. Its all time and money and the more money you have the faster the project goes and the deeper the mud you can go thru.

Here is what I read: might help some but might start new debates? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I just now finished up making the stock specs, hope everything is in order. Common Design All MJs were built as a full unibody design with the body and frame rails tied/welded together as one piece and cannot be removed, however, the rear is a fully boxed frame with the bed bolted to it, making the bed removable. All MJs have solid axles front and rear. The suspension consists of coils for the front and leaf springs for the rear. All MJs came with disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear. Also, all MJ's through all years are equipped with a height sensing proportioning valve that is used to change the bias of the brakes if the bed had a load in it. For those curious to the differences in Cherokee's and Comanche's: The taillight lenses are different from a Cherokee's, the wheel flares are the same (as a 2dr Cherokee), hoods are swappable from 84-92 models Cherokee's (Cherokee's above 92 used spring-loaded hinges), and all mechanical/electronic parts forward of the firewall ARE identical. Body The body comes only in standard cab model with a rear double-top hatch tailgate. Comes in longbed or shortbeds two-tone versions. Long bed versions come with a larger gas tank than the short bed and is located front of the axle. Short bed version was not avaiable in 1986. Interior: Door panels are removable as stock. Bench seats and bucket seats DO NOT have the same mounting brackets as XJ seats. Gauge cluster is removed by 4 screws. Gauge cluster during 86' have mechanical-powered gauges. On 87-90 gauges, The speedometer uses a cable, but all gauges 91-92 use a computer cable. Wheelbase: short bed 2wd=113.1 4wd=112.9 (18 gal tank) long bed 2wd=119.6 4wd=119.4 (16 gal [longbed, opt shortbed] 23.5 gal [opt longbed; standard from 1989]) Engines 2.5L I4 TBI (fuel injected) - 117 hp @ 5000 rpm, 135 ftlb @ 3500 rpm - used in 86 and updated in 87-90 to 121hp (2.5L became MPI in 91 and was rated for 130hp @ 5250 and 149 ftlb @ 3250) GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm - used only in 86 Italian VM 2.8L Turbo Diesel - 140 hp, 236 ft lb torque - used in overseas MJs 2.1L 4 cylinder Turbo Diesel - 85 hp, 132 ft lb torque. 4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm - used 87-90 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO" (High Output) - 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm - used in 91-92 Transmissions Manual Transmissions AX4 - 4 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used 86-92 with 2.5L I4 and 2.8L V6 engines and 2.8L turbo-diesels T4 & T5 - 4 & 5 speed manual - manufactured by Borg Warner - used only in 86 with 2.5L I4 and 2.8L V6 engines AX5 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 2.8L V6 and 87+ with 2.5L I4 AX15 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 4.0L I6 engines Automatic Transmissions Torqueflight 904 - 3 speed automatic - used only in 86 with 2.8L V6 and 2.5L I4 engines and 2.8L turbo-diesels AW4 - 4 speed automatic, electronically controlled - manufactured by Aisin - used from 87-92 (87-92 models include a Power/Comfort button that adjusts the shift points, also known as a towing package; all transmissions came with the towing package and came with a transmission cooler; 88+ models used Power/Comfort switch for off-roading) Pete M implied information about this that might override anything written above, where his information is correct. It was too hard for me to take his info and add it in, atleast for now... Quote: Originally Posted by Pete M The "Metric Tonne" or "Big Ton" or "payload package" was designed for hauling, was only available on longbeds, and consisted of an AMC-20 rear axle in 86, Dana 44 rear axle in 87-92, heavier duty springs front and rear, tougher shocks, the larger tires, fullsize spare and 15x7 wheels. In the AMC-20, the only gear ratio was 4.10, Dana 44s got stuck with the standard ratio available with the specified drivetrain combo (3.08 for 4.0l/manual, 3.54 for 4.0l/autos, and 4.09 for 2.5l/manuals). Transfer Cases The transfer cases used are all chain driven with aluminum housings. NP stands for "New Process" which is the brand, if you will. NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 ratio low range - used 86 NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-92 NP228 - "Select-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.6:1 ratio low range - used 86 NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-92 Driveshafts Front Driveshaft - On 86-87 MJs (NP207 t-case) the front shaft is a "GKN" style shaft. On 87-92 MJs (NP231/242 t-case) the front is a "double cardan" two-piece driveshaft with a CV joint at the transfer case end. Rear Driveshaft - The rear is a one-piece shaft with standard u-joints at both ends. The slip yoke is located on the output shaft of the transfer case. On 86-92 models, the yoke slides in and out of the transfer case and is lubricated by the ATF fluid internally. This information might override what's written on the rear-driveshaft, but has no method of being added in as 'stock' Quote: Originally Posted by Pete M Actually, there were 2 different styles of rear shaft offered, though I have yet to determine a logical pattern behind which MJ got which. The other one was a 2-piece design, but not the usual 2-piece you're thinking of where one side slips on the other. The MJ 2-piece had a large outer tube on the transmission side and a smaller tube on the axle side. They are fused together with a thick rubber isolator designed to reduce vibrations. Axles Front Axles Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear - used 86-92 (all axles are vacuum disconnect, and have 5-260x u-joints) Rear Axles AMC-20 - 29 Spline, one piece axle shafts, 8.875" Ring Gear; Metric Tonne axle in 86. Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 86-89 Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 89-92 Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on some(not all) MJs equipped with towing package. (note for D44's: All MJ's equipped with the stock D44 come with the Metric Ton Package) All rear axles are made of a spring under axle design. Gearing 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission NOTE by Pete M: Quote: Originally Posted by Pete M in 86 there was a "fuel saver" package where you could get a 3.31 ratio. (that package also came with the 2.5L, 4 speed manual transmission, and tailgate delete) Cooling Systems Open style - any normal cooling system used today. Opposite of closed style described below. Closed style - has no radiator cap and utilizes a pressure bottle. This style cooling system was used in 87-90 MJs. Airbags No airbags during Comanche timeline. Trim Levels 86 - Custom, X, XLS 87 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, SporTruck 88 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 89 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 90 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 91 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 92 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck Production Numbers MJ (4x4 only) SWB/LWB 1986 23,251/xxxxx 1987 6,199/6,685 1988 6,895/9,167 1989 5,354/5,021 1990 3,283/2,129 1991 5,188 (TOTAL) 1992 3,142 (TOTAL) A little info on dimensions: Quote: Originally Posted by Pete M Overall length was 179.3" for shortbeds, 194.0" for longbeds Overall curb height was 63.7" for 2wds, 64.7" for 4wds Track width was 57" with the 15x6 rims, 58" with the 15x8s Body width at the rear flares was 71.7" Length of inside of box at the floor was 73.7" sb and 88.5" lb Width of box at the floor is 55.3" for both sb and lb Width between wheel wells is 43.8" Box depth is 16.4" This is a edited copy of the XJ stock specs. If anything here is incorrect or if you would like to add the dimensions and production numbers, please post info The OTHER notes section!!! Quote: Originally Posted by Pete M Curb weight for the 2wd short bed was 2912 4wd sb was 3076 2wd lb was 2959 4wd lb was 3141 Payload for stock MJs is 1475 lbs (1200 for 86), Metric Tonne was 2205 lbs. The maximum tow rating an MJ was ever given was 5000 lbs (4.0L required). 2.5Ls seem to have been limited to 2000 lbs and 2.8Ls were 4200. I cannot find any rating listed for the stock bumper. Every brochure mentions a class 1,2,3 hitch needs to be installed for towing. Special thanks to: cj7xjmj, Pete M, krodeMJ, MJDriver, Drahcir495, Guumba, and 1986Comanche __________________

I can see what I started. I said "think I read" oh well, I've read so much and ol age is setting in. I thought I read it at the jeepforum site. go figure! I just pulled one of mine to sand blast some rot out and all the nuts snapped due to rust. so its off to the j yard I guess.

I think I read somewhere that the flares from a 4 door xj around the same vintage will work.

yeah, it's got a good stance. was wondering what brand lift stuff was installed, apparently its soa. such as: stock springs or ?? ect.......

Hey Girsmj, noticed your pic on your posts of the black mj. Is that your truck and did you build it? would like to know your build sheet on it. Looks good and just what I would want.

Sounds more like a scrap yard. Hey maybe you can talk the boss into having a special mj area and stock pile them for us. We got the phone number, maybe we should all call and protest. :dunno:

Big D, yeah, I just gave the keys back to swift, shoot, it was like slavery. now, i'm driving a forklift truck, no mo truck stops. Yeah I heard that. all the wives going to the yard. Rick, If you get a cheap one your gonna spend the extra money in time and work and parts. I think its just cheaper to get a clean one for more. I have a lot a room to talk. :eek:

Slickrick, just my 2-cents, try looking into hot rod black primer, it looks the best of all primers, plus if you decide to paint it l8r you'll have less prep work. looks trick and easy to respray. Just an idea. Yeah when I bought mine the ac worked fine, now I think I have a leak and the compressor isn't kicking on, I think its the pressure switch!

dang it, is that where I've been getting all that trash? Yeah I agree, the peterbuilt badges give a touch of class. (JEEP ON), Pete next you need to get the exhaust stacks and all the chicken lights.