mvusse

Well, played with my "leak tester" again. I got both pipes on the sender sealed, now it's just leaking at the wire grommet (I'm guessing the O-ring didn't like the torch) and one pin hole I can't even see in the middle of the large flat part of the cover plate. Can't see the hole, but I can see it get wet when the tank is full of water. Anybody has an idea of how to best plug a leak too small for the naked eye to see in a flat piece of metal? Is there some type of urethane or something I can just spray the inside with that gasoline won't mess with?

Exo-cage?

It's not just counties. Federal and state government have a habit of adding completely unrelated stuff to bills. Let's say you try to pass a 423 page bill about using a cell phone while driving, nobody is going to read the whole thing to realize the last page would make watering your lawn on Sundays illegal.

It's a black plastic box with velcro on it. Thanks. Now I know what to look for when I try to figure out why my intermittent setting doesn't work. It just stops the wiper dead wherever they happen to be.

That's what rock sliders are for. Of course, like everybody else, I messed up my rockers *before* realizing that.

My temp gauge usually runs around 160, with a 195 thermostat. Replaced the thermostat, no difference, so I though my gauge was bad. However, in stop and go traffic on a hot day, or sitting at a rail road crossing it goes up to 210 (no fan shroud, no aux fan), and stop and go offroading on a hot day I overheated. The coolant started boiling about 1/16" into the red zone, so I figure the gauge does read correct. Installed an aux fan, but still need to wire it up, and still looking for a shroud.

Where?

On the original question, I agree with Eagle on 2", at least for the front. I run 1.75" spacers and at full flex (with sway bar disconnected) and steering lock the rubber brake hose is stretched tight. Don't know about the rear, though.

I added 1.75" spacers on top of my stock coils with the stock control arms and track bar. I did extend the shocks 2" as a temporary measure, though, and will get longer shocks soon. Didn't set the tires back noticeably, and handles just fine. If you look carefully you can see the front axle is offset a bit toward the driver side, but you have to look and pay real close attention to be able to see it. If your lift includes adjustable control arms and trac bar, you could correct for it no problem.

You could do what I'm planning to do when my current tires are worn down too much to be usable enough off road: get a spare set of rims, use one for road tires, and the other specifically for play tires. That way you won't wear down your play tires driving on asphalt all the time and you could run your road tires way past the point where they would be useless off road any more..

I have dealt with drum brakes on quite a few vehicles of different makes and they are all similar. If you have any other vehicle with drum brakes, remove a wheel and drum and use it as a visual reference. I believe (per wheel) a wheel cylinder, drum, shoes, hardware kit and adjuster kit will almost get you everything you need. Open everything up and organize it, then see what you're missing. probably a large bracket that goes from one shoe to the other above the axle and a smaller on that hooks to one on the bottom and leans against the adjuster star wheel. You may be able to get those from a dealership, possibly a parts store, and possibly a jy if thet happen to have a D44. I believe hardware kits and adjuster kits will contain parts for both wheels, so you might only need one of each. Do not get brake parts from NAPA. They are no better than anybody else (at least not noticeably better) but cost many times more. I walked out of Autozone having paid $90 for a pile of brake parts that NAPA wanted $350 for. And up until the moment of impact, they allowed me to lock up the brakes quite well, even without power brakes, on my F100, RIP.

Find a few what?

Whenever I deal with spade connectors, I squeeze them a little flat with a pair of pliers to make sure they go on tight.

Way back in high school a buddy of mine used the "only works once" hit it with a hammer technique for most of an entire school year before he finally replaced it over summer break.

I have no need for a gas tank. The one under the truck is just fine. The one with the holes I replaced a few months back because of the holes, but it still functions as a leak tester for sender units... I never threw the old one away, because I never got around yet to take a good look at it to see if it were salvageable. And now I found a use for it.

I knew I kept my old gas tank around for a reason. I originally was going to wirebrush it to see if it was salvageable, but there's no need to any more. I tried to seal up my old sender unit, and stuck it in there, and while tightening the lock ring a few chunks of rust fell off, leaving a hold in the left rear upper corner bigh enough to put my fist through. But, by putting a wood block under that corner, raising it, I can keep enough water in there long enough, despite more than 10 smaller holes on the bottom, to see if the sender unit leaks or not. I think I have the wire grommet sealed, and possibly even where the tubes go through the plate. I do have a more serious leak right on the weld where the piece of brake line goes into what's left of the return tube. No big deal, I'll remove it from my leak tester tomorrow, try to seal it back up and test again. No need to get under the truck until I have it completely fixed.

It was a ruse to get us to back off so they could pass us. Rickie was actually in the lead for a while, by as many as 400 votes.

If that doesn't work and you're sure the battery is good and fully charged, pull the starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested.

Update: Got under my truck again, removed everything from the tank, changed over sending units, put it all back together and my gauge works again. Got some gas, and this one leaks just as bad as the old one. :mad: I guess I'll pay with a torch and some brass and see if I can seal the old one back up some time this week. At least now that I have two, I can drive around with one while working on the other.

Update: Got under my truck again, removed everything from the tank, changed over sending units, put it all back together and my gauge works again. Got some gas, and this one leaks just as bad as the old one. :mad: I guess I'll pay with a torch and some brass and see if I can seal the old one back up some time this week.

For some reason your opening and closing img tags were backwards.

No new pics at this time, but I put a new air cleaner box (actually, just the bottom half) out of a 93 Cherokee in. This one is in 1 piece without half a roll of duct tape holding it together. Also installed an aux. electric fan out of the same, but need to wire it up still. And of course I forgot to take the other half of the wiring harness off :wall: . No 4.0 shroud to be found in the jy this week, as this vehicle was the only 4.0 there and it was missing already. There were at least 15, maybe 20 of them last time; this time there were that many 2.5s, :mad: Even though they cleaned out and rotated through a lot of vehicles, and warned me it might be gone, the Comanche was still there for me to take the sender unit off. Noticed a 2.5 pump is quite a bit smaller, but the 4.0 pump fits just fine. The pumps come with different top brackets to make up the difference. Also noticed the arm on the float was a lot shorter (about 2" instead of 4" or so), but didn't worry about it. The entire installation of the new assembly: remove old, change pump over to new and reinstall took me less than 45 minutes this time, but I've had lots of practice lately. Start up the truck and with 1/4 tank of gas the fuel gauge fluctuates between almost full and half a tank past full :mad: :mad: Don't know if the problem is a bad sending unit, bad wire, or different system :???: So now I need to take it out again, move the sending unit over and put it back in again. No big deal, except that I'm starting to get sick of looking at the bottom of my truck! On a side note, if anyone is in need of a 2.5 pump that may or may not be working (but it spins when hooked up to a battery), you're free to have it for the cost of shipping.

See JeepcoMJ post :nuts: :headpop: Okay, all calmed down again :D I did read that post. But why does the other side seem to be centered in the wheel well?

On top of that, bed sides for our trucks are not being made anymore, and not available anywhere. So the only way to fix a rusted out bed is to cut a bunch of small patch panels out of Cherokee fenders and doors, or get a whole bed somewhere. And those are getting harder to find as well.

Is it just an optical illusion, or does the one rear wheel sit way forward, while the other side is centered in the wheel well?