Rohls

Any thoughts on this...?

I recently installed a fuel pressure gauge (dial filled with glycerin \) ontot the fuel rail in my 92 4.0 MJ. The fuel pressure at idle is 44PSI, at ~2000 rpm it jumps to 49 PSI...I have the FORD 19# and the Chrysler FPR. Is this normal pressure wise? I have been experiencing hard starting when HOT and easy starting when cold...consistently. Any ideas? Thanks!

Hmm... I really thought the larger injectors required the higher pressure regulator... Also, when I first put the injectors in I started it with the stock regulator and is coughed, sputtered and ran like crap...hence buying the upgraded 44psi regulator. What should I do?

Sounds like you bought the wrong regulator. Which "updated" regulator did you install? A GM regulator? They are useful perhaps on a stroker to correct a lean condition but should not be on a N/A engine. Maybe if you hit it with a hammer long enough. :yes: I've had one mounted for years. They are referring to the larger 2-1/16" gauges. Thanks Hornbrod. I was checking my records and I believe it is the PR11 for Chrysler vehicles. I remember doing research and that's the best I could come up with. I think this one....http://www.ebay.com/itm/PR211-NEW-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-for-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-/261522234559?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce3f09cbf&vxp=mtr Which one do you suggest i buy? The motor is stock other than the injectors pretty much. Here is an image on mine...it has 8565 stamped in it...I haven't got around to noting the other number...I imagine its a PN. Thanks!

Also, i was reading the instructions that came with the brass adapter and it warns against using glycerin filled gauges on the fuel rail because the engine vibs could crack the Shrader valve eventually...I guess its a weight thing.....anyone ever heard of this happening?

Okay, so I did this mod; very cool! My pressure at idle is 44 PSI (!). I rev it to about 2000 RPM and it tops out at 48 PSI... Is this okay? To be expected? I have the larger multi-port injectors (Mustang 5.0 I believe) and an updated fuel pressure regulator that I thought was supposed to regulate the pressure to ~39 PSI...no?

Thanks all! After a lot of searching and replacing parts, the connection right at the blower was intermittent! I fixed this and the blower is solid now. Thanks again!

Check out my build thread. I had a 2.25" downpipe bent up and flared to meet a 2.5" Magnaflow glasspack that directly feeds a 2.5" Magnaflow big case muffler. Quiet and deep at idle, deep and throaty under load, and best of all, no drone when cruising. Update: I got the Magnaflow 2.5" in/out a couple feet long...AWESOME sound and feel. no drone at highway speeds...super fun. :thumbsup:

Nickel and a guitar pick worked like a charm for me!

Thanks guys! I'll rewire the burnt relay wires and be sure to put the ground to the battery terminal....would really like to avoid any kind of melting of wires! :)

Did you use the putco harness? I made my own with 6mm wire, a little tougher. Sounds like the wiring was too thin to handle the current. I used a similar ceramic harness from amazon with good reviews.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMN30HY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a little distrubing because the wires do look sturdy enough.. AND the 30 AMP fuse is still intact... The high beams still work...I guess those are on their own relay....but don't they share a positive? I'm leaning towards the ground being not good enough....but I scrapped the radiator bracket pretty well rid of paint before attaching...any other ides of where to mount it? Engine block...? Or is that too far from the driver's side headlight? Maybe use a external tooth washer...? Should I go down in power ratings on my bulbs...? (currently 85/100W) Thanks!

So I upgraded my harness and headlight to hella ecodes and 85/100W hella bulbs. I installed these one month ago.they have been working great. And are super bright. Yesterday i was driving in smelled a funny smell...I pulled over and turns out the low beam relay wires were fried and melted at the relay!! Anybody know what could've caused this? Possibly a bad ground?

Thanks! Will do.

Hi Hornbrod, i know this is an old thread...would the Nippon Denso 136A described above be the choice for my 1992 MJ 4.0 upgrade from stock? I don't think the above link works... Thanks!

Thanks! Suppose I'll try to flush the heater core next then.

The line was the vent coming straight out of rear of the blower motor housing...it's like 1/2" diameter rubber piece 3" long. Does this need to be connected to the firewall/inside cabin to heat...?

Oh and I have been meaning to 'reflush' the heater core, though I did that when I changed the coolant....but could it be that i need to stick a hose in there and flush it again? Just messy for where I live is all... Thanks!

Hi, Got a 92 MJ 4.0. Just replaced the water pump, thermostat (195 deg), coolant, and blower motor... Used to be that I got really hot air coming outta my heater...now it's just luke warm at best. The blower motor was one that had the vent hole (in the motor casing) in the wrong place for me to hook it back up properly, so i left the rubber hose off. Could this be causing me the cold-air situation? ANother thing is that the jeep is running noticeably cooler (like propably 20 deg) according to the dash thermometer...could it be that it's just not warming up all the way for the 195 deg thermostat to open up...? Does that make sense? Thanks!

Yes. Alright! Thank you! You're the man...! Gonna try this out soon! I apologize for the thread hijacking! :banana: :banana: :banana: . :MJ 1: . :banana:

The aux fan relays on my '88 XJ and my '88 MJ are on the inner driver's fender, right next to the airbox. Yeah, thanks...I don't have those. my AUX fan relay is in my PDC. So how do I verify the AUX fan is switching on when it is suppose to?

Which terminal in the relay socket did you test? Remember -- a relay is an electrically controlled switch. For the relay to be "ON" there has to be 12 volts to the input of the control side (terminal 85 or 86), and 12 volts to the input of the load side (terminal 30). Thanks, the 12V was coming from the 30-87a circuit....the 'hot' one. I guess my question becomes how do I check that the temperature switch is functioning? Can I just 'jump' the 85/86 circuit to test if that kicks on the AUX fan...? The temperature switch in the thermostat housing is brand new...but maybe the signal wire isn't connected? Hmmm////

Thanks for the reply. I do have the components for the AC all hooked up, but it's not functioning...what's the easiest way to diagnose the AC? I tried turning the AC on and no dice. Swapped some relays, still nothing. Shouldn't the AC clutch engage when turned on? I imagine the AUX fan would spin up....but it didn't.. Thanks!

Doh! :) Thanks; I should have known. Temperature switch and thermostat are brand new (100 miles). So I just hot-wired my fan...and it spun up fine. I checked the relay receptacle and it is getting 12V with the key on ACC. Last thing I can think of is the relay is bad...swap relays? But then how do I know it's functioning? Should I 'hot wire' the relay by connecting the switch outputs to the fan...?

No, this is not a common issue. In fact, after owning and playing with XJs and MJs since I bought an XJ new in 1988, I have never encountered one with a jumper to the auxiliary fan. I know that some owners install a toggle switch in the cabin so they can turn on the fan manually when wheeling, but that's generally a matter or preference rather than necessity. The fan is controlled by a relay that should be located on the inner fender, next to the air intake box. More than likely the relay is messed up and the previous owner was too lazy or too stupid to fix it properly. ...maybe a silly question: I have a 92 MJ...could you post a pic of where t cooling fan relay is? I don't think my fan is working and believe the PO may have thrown this relay away... Where is the temp switch that activates the cooling/aux fan? I've heard radiator, but a diagram/photo would be nice. I've installed the relay for the cooling fan, but don't think it changed much, so I'm looking at other options. ALso, does the AC motor have to function for the fan to turn on....? All the bits are there for my AC, but unplugged the power to the AC clutch because it needs a coolant refill and I don't need it anyway. Thanks!

Well, what's the PN for the seal on TEAM CHEROKEE? I see a couple...would like to get the correct one... Mine leaks more than a nickel will fix... Thanks!