Rohls

Thanks Eagle! I agree. Its seems I'm going to have to sell these wheels as I would be inviting trouble if I didn't.

I believe the wheels I"m trying to put on there are at 3.25" BS. I was planning on using adapters, as I know I would have to. This would add and inch or so (?)....but how would this effect the steering and driveability I wonder? at to FrankThe Dog's point, I'm going to have a wider track...but is that going to make the MJ unsafe / less stable at speed? Thanks All.

Ok. So I could runs these rims, right?

Thanks. I was just reading what was stamped on the wheel; -19. I suppose since the wheel is an 8", 0 offset would be 4" BS, and 19mm is ~3/4" so I have 3.25" BS on the wheels I am thinking about putting on the MJ. I have about 4.5" lift on the stock rims (not sure what BS these are?). I'm running 31" Toyo all terrains tires. I'd rather not put spacers on there (other than the adapter) if I didn't have to. Thanks!

Hi All, Just bought a set of American racing wheels for my Ford van. Turns out the offset (-19mm) is too much for my van. Great...! luckily I have a 92 MJ with stock wheels, that I like, but have tinkered with the idea of swapping on day... The wheels I would like to put on my MJ are 15x8 with -19mm offset. They have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, and I know my MJ has a 5x4.5. my question is can I run these new wheels on say 31s or 33s without steering issues? It looks like the stick MJ wheels have a bit of backspacing, but since the new wheels has a bit too...and are meant for a CJ anyway...could they work? I know I have to buy an adapter...and that’s like a 1” spacer... is this sounding like a Bad idea? thanks!

As stated previously, I have replaced every single ujoint except the cardon (sp?) joint for the front DS. it looks/ feels fine though. Man, i would really like to know what people think about the front driveshaft play though...when i removed the front DS, i still got the clunk, so now I'm really leaning towards the front axle. diff...but what could be 'loose' in there while allowing everything else (4 HIGH, turing, etc,) be totally functional? Strange..

Totally, thanks, I tried this this evening as well, with my hand, I'll try it with a pry bar like you mention. I couldn't detect any play. BUT.... I've been trying to understand this: I put a hand on the ujoint (as pictured above) / axle...then another on the front driveshaft and rotate the front driveshaft about 1/4 turn...the axle DOESN"T move. Is this alright? is that too much play in the gears / front differential? Maybe that's where all this crap clunk is coming from? Still need to crack the front differential open guess...but I don't know what to look for and it's my usual driver. Thanks again.

Yeah, it is pretty bad. I thank you for the advise, but i don't think I pulled a plug or anything... I received an email from IronMan 4x4 that told me the torque spec was about 40 ft-lbs. Tonight I loosened the motor mounts ( they were tight) and re torqued to proper torque. Haven't driven it yet. I also went through and torqued the caliper to knuckle bolts; they were really close though. Also went over the LCA and UCA bolts. The LCA bolts were kinda loose-r, but I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 130 ft-lbs per recommendation. just cranked the sh*t outta it. The UCA were tight. Still need to drive her, but running outta ideas. Thanks

How should I do this...? Take off the wheel and hub / bearing assembly? You aren't talking about the axle tubes / housing, right? Thanks.

Hmm, good point. I'm 95% sure they are but I'll check tonight. What's the torque spec on them,...?

Darn, well, I feel your vibration pain...I would think the MFG would at least mention that the vibrations can increase with the installation of their mounts. Like you said, when my front driveshaft is out, I still hear the clunk....maybe it's the front differential. I can't get to it this next week, but soon enough... Could it be the front wheel bearings? I jack up the truck and spin the wheels...they seem fine with no binding. COuld it be the front AXLE somehow? I mean clunking up and down....? I was noticing yesterday that the clunk gets noticeably BETTER (kinda goes away I think...) when I apply the brakes...so maybe something is in torsion (kinda rotating forward / deadened) by the braking...? IDK...just another data point. Thanks for all the help...I'll keep trying.

Hmmm...well hopefully when I get back in there to loosen the bolts up a bit, that will reduce the vibes. They are crazy...like being in a paint shaker... My MM are Clevite Rubber, so they shouldn't do this I imagine. Just contacted Ironman 4x4...no response yet.

Cool, Thanks. I'll try this. Is there a 'torque spec' for the bushing bolt? I cranked it on there by hand...prolly too tight like you are suggesting. Thanks.

A little update; installed new tranny mount, no change in clunking / rattling noise. Old mount had little cracks in it, but not bad. New mount didn’t line up worth a crap, so had to drill / choose my own adventure in the cross member. I hate that. installed new motor mounts from Ironman 4x4. These set me back $130...I was expecting good results. Finally slammed them in last night, drove around and almost vibrated my fillings out of my teeth. Man, that’s crazy vibes. I did go from cracked rubber mounts to poly, but how bad is it supposed to be? I mean I can feel every revolution of the engine..?!! I let the clutch out and it feels like a shuttle launch in my cab...:/ I'm stuck again because the clunk is still there...maybe hub / bearing / axle related? Sheesh.

Yeah, I'm starting to think it is diff/gear/front axle related. I probably changed the front diff fluid 20,000 miles ago. I don't think it is the exhuast, but I'll check it out anyway. How much front driveshaft play is allowable? There is only rotational play, nothing vertical, etc. My buddy thinks the front axle could be bound up within the differential gear...is that possible? It's sounding more like I need to pop off the diff cover and check it out...but what should I look for? The gears have a little backlash / play in them, right? But it sure seems like more than they should... Thanks again...!

My apologies, I meant front drive shaft.

Hi All, Welp, still have this clunking noise from the front end of my MJ. So far I replaced the following in the last 8 months... LCA/UCA and bushings in axle Drag link and ball joints on both ends. Ball joints all u-joints Track bar is an adjustable one, curry joints...pretty new...tight on both ends JKS discos sway bar bushings Drilled out the UCA bushings to accept a 1/2" bolt, have not done the LCA, but those seems tight... Rebuilt shocks The clunk-clunk-clunk happens a little more when I am 'off weighting the front end a little' (accelerating uphill) and maybe a little more when I turn left. Definitely noticeable at speeds under 25 MPH...I can't really hear it when in 4WD i don't think.. I've driven it without the front axle attached and it still makes the clunking. I've driven it without the sway bar quick disconnects connected...still makes the clunk=clunk=clunk...grrr. I'm starting to think the only thing left really is the following: 1.Wheel Bearings: spin freely though, and not any play that I can tell (lift front end up, rotate, grab and shake) 2. Front differential/ gear slop?>>>>I say this because when the truck is on the ground, in gear to keep from moving, I can rotate the front axle (spin) probably 1/4 turn in each direction IS THIS NORMAL? Does this mean I have SLOP IN THE DIFF GEARS? Transfer case belt worn? 3. LCA arm bolts: they seem tight, but maybe not enough? I cranked the holy hell outta them, but think the torque spec is like 130 ftlbs? i don't have a wrench for that. 4. Front differential bearings? Throwing this out there, but man, i don't know anymore. 5. I'm using shocks that are for a 4' lift, but I guess technically I have a 4.5" lift? Could this be the issue? I am getting a winch (on order) next week, and think this would weight down the front some..hmm Thanks for your help!

Hi All, I have what I think is a strange issue. Haven't been able to figure it out, and hopefully it's an easy one. I recently replaced UCA/LCA/Coils and brake lines for a lift. Everything seemed good for about 2 weeks. NI have a couple issues... 1) I keep getting this 'clunk-clunk-clunk- that sounds and feels like broken/blown out shock about about 25mph. I'm pretty sure it's the UCA bolts. I have JKS adjustable UCA, and I'm pretty sure the bolt size is 10mm for the upper (to body) bolt hole in the body, but I remember looking at the UCA bushing hole and it seemed like it had a little 'nub' down in the middle of it...like the 10mm stock bolt would fit, but only contact that nub....>>>what is the correct bolt size to be using here? I thought this joint had to be very tight so I wouldn't get play in it...? 2) I now have a very odd thing happen. A typical day , I'll drive down the road with my steering wheel totally straight, as I aligned it the day before, and everything is tracking straight and true...cool. I sttarted my rig this morning and the steering wheel is rotated a good 15 degrees clockwise?!? and now I drove to work with it all rotated like someone played a prank on me. Is my steering box going bad?..no connection that I can tell is loose...what should I check? Thanks for the help.

Good news, I ordered these guys from 4Wheel Parts.com...RE3782. They are RE. Hopefully will work!

Anybody have anymore ideas...?

Ack! So stopped at NAPA yesterday...the 2671465 PN was 1/2" hole. What gives? Who sells the actual bushing...? Auto zone...? o'Riellys? Geez, tough one I guess.

Oh, no, sorry I got my 1/2" hole bushings from Amazon. They are the MOOG K3128...too large for my liking....I'd rather not drill out to increase the diameter 3mm. Rusty's has the correct ones I just found out (10mm for the Dana 30 axle-mounted side)...but the shipping is like $13 (!)...so I'm going to try NAPA know-how...NCP 2671465 from above. I'll report back! Thanks

Thanks all! Rusty's sent me this... http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-suspension-control-arms-accessories/jeep-control-arm-accessories/rustys-rubber-bushing-upper-arms-each.html

Hi! So I've read enough to get confused, and decided to post a question. I'm replacing my UCA and LCA with JKS stuff. Gonna be cool, and I'm headin' towards a 4.5" lift with coils and the other goodies. My question is this: in the Dana 30 axle, there are control arm bushings, what is the proper MOOG or other reputable mfg part number? I just bought what I thought were the correct bushings, but they have a 1/2" bolt hole and I'm pretty sure the JKS and stock UCAs have a 10mm hole. Please help before I get the incorrect part and have to drill out my nice new control arms...! many thanks! . :MJ 1: .

So I'm just about to install 4.5" coils/LCA/UCA/everything else for a 4.5" lift in the front...currently I have tired/worn 31" tires...I really want to upgrade to 33"s at least....maybe 35s(?) and know I should regear right about now...I currently have the Dana 30/35 (bleh) combo. Should I go SOA? I don't want crazy lift in the rear...I already have a bastard pack and chevy drop shackles...which i could part with if need be. I'm leaning towards a cheaper/better Ford 8.8 outta a Exploder with 4.10 gears...still need to source one. Wanna run 33s... Do I need to worry about the FRONT axle right now...? I'm 75% on road. Should I swap the entire front axle or just regear the Dana 30, which I'm guessing would be a mistake...? Any help would be appreciated. Not sure which road to take. Many thanks! :banana: . :MJ 1: .