robfg67

That's too bad-I thought I found the problem.

4WD engages but the part time light does not turn on. I checked the bulb and its fine. I visually inspected the colored vacuum lines (still wrapped in the factory black plastic loom) coming off the NP 231 and they look surprisingly clean for 20 years old. The blue line just dead ends at a black connector near the passenger side fire wall. I looked in the general area to see what would attach to the other end but didn’t find anything. Can someone suggest a course of action to get my light back on?

I just replaced my ignition switch last week. It was $35 from the Jeep Dealership. There is a good write-up about 1/4 way down on this page: http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm

Thanks Guys, a wiper delay would be nice to add. Do I just need the correct stalk?

All of these plugs are located near the steering wheel. This Large Black plug has 4 wires: • Red with white stripe • Black • Light Brown with black stripe • White with black stripe This Clear plug has 2 wires: • Black • Blue with yellow stripe This Black plug has 3 wires: • Black • Grey • Orange with white stripe This plug has 2 wires (a white & Green with black stripe) that were cut and are bypassing the plug:

Wildman, that's exactly what I needed-it looks fairly easy to swap as well. Thanks!

I've done more research on this issue and it's my ignition switch thats bad. Does anyone have a write-up for this?

Jumped in my truck to go home today and lots of strange electrical stuff was going on. Brake light on, temp gauge reading well over 260, & no power to radio or heater blower, and a strange electrical buzzing sound. When I got out of the truck, the starter was smoking and was, of course, fried. This was caused by the ignition switch not returning to its normal position (after the start). I didn’t realize the cause until after it was too late and had to get a new starter from the local auto parts store. Has this happened to anyone else? Is swapping out the ignition switch cylinder a straight-forward job? Does anyone have a write-up?

ejndssn's link stated: "Banks Engineering spent well over a $1 million dollars in time and money to bring the title back home." We may all have to all pitch-in on this effort!

I asked for my money back first and if he resisted I was going to ask him for a different (better) axle or the gear swap. At this point, I think I'd prefer the Dana 44 in the rear and not too sure that I trust him.

And the story ends... I spoke to the guy today and he will take back the axle for a full refund. Thanks for everyone's input. I've learned a valuable lesson and will be much more careful next time. Now, I still want 4.10 gears before winter sets in. The search continues!

Chico, I've been practicing in the mirror all weekend. Your right, I'm sure he'll be flexible if I'm willing to give him more work. I'll update this thread after I speak to him on Monday.

Yeah Pat! Possibly a rube, but not a yuppie. I acknowledge that I should have taken a better look at the axle when I picked it up, but I really didn't know any better. And that is the seller's ONLY fall-back position. If he won't budge on a return, perhaps I can swap for a better axle...and this time I know what to look for.

cocco78, will the 4.10 gears fit inside my stock Dana 30? If so, does anyone know what the typical cost might be?

Jim-your right. One of his emails stated good brakes and larger u-joints. Do you know of this place? It's Jeeps Unlimited on Ambrose Street-just down the road fron the Foxy Lady.

Sir Sam, you could be right, but I'm still going to ask.

...and other than that how did you like the play Mrs. Lincoln? JeepcoMJ, thanks for your opinion/advise-I really didn't know any better when I picked it up. The brakes are junk and your right about the u-joints, ball joints & mounts-they are no good either! I'm sure a good shop would charge in the neighborhood of $500 to "fix" this axle. Would the 4.10 gears fit into my stock Dana 30 front axle-perhaps, that's the way to go? If not, I'll call this joker and see if I can get my money back. CW, how much did you want for your front axle?

FxRacing282, where should I get new shock mounts? Would a welder create new ones out of weld stock? What about axle shafts? Bone yard or dealership?

I knew that there would be rust, and I'm not happy about it, but I'll put in the time to de-rust and prime & paint. Am I in trouble with the front shock mount-it looks like its rusted through. Do these have to come off anyway for the MJ shock mounts? If not, then can I take the shock mounts off of the MJ and weld ono this axle?

I'm familiar with sandblasting. I wasn't sure if he meant something else.

What's sandblasters? Are these axles much worse than normal? Remember, these came from a '94 Cherokee in the northeast!

Here are some close-up pics of the front axle shock mounts...am I in trouble here? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

If anyone read the thread Question on rear axle upgrade they are familiar with the story...I bought a rear axle from eBay for $5 and the front axle for $250 (from same guy-Jeeps Unlimited in Providence, RI. Both came from a '94 Cherokee and have 4.10 gears. Front: Dana 30 High pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear & 5-260x u-joints- this axle is vacum non-disconnect. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Rear: Chrysler 8.25 - 27 spline, 1.17" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Thanks Eagle-I'll do the research! Although I'm looking forward to swapping-in these axles, I just swappped-out new u-joints in my front axle shafts. Oh well!

Hey CW, thanks for the info. The donor vehicle is a 1994 Cherokee. The brake pads on my front axle are fairly new and the rotors and calipers are good. Can I just add the MJ's brakes to the '94's hubs & axle shafts?