WahooSteeler

Anybody catch this one on ebay? Plow truck or no plow truck, it's still practically new. It will be interesting to see what it brings. Let's place bets on what it goes for. Already at $2500 with over 8 days to go. The winner gets..............uh...........gets.............uh, well the winner doesn't get jack other than best guesser honors! Closest within $100. If that Scrambler is going for $55,000, this oughta bring at least $54,500! Ok, so take a zero off, I think it will close for @$5850. Anyway, <13k, that's amazing. Interior looked incredible. Let the games begin................. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2342720&rd

rust? that ain't rust! 'round here that's just a little acne! that'll clean up in no time! it IS funny how the west coast/east coast acceptance of rust is so opposite.

don't know if many of you saw this one on ebay, pretty cherry for $2k IMO Item number: 310002134903

5 1/4" in the doors, 4x6 in the rears. you can get them almost anywhere, from auto parts stores to wal-mart, target, etc., or radio shack, crutchfield.com and other online retailers. you won't get much bass out of any of those, so if you are looking for at least a little oomph, you may want to consider boxes for behind your seat. there are several designs for this, but you can either get one or two with just a woofer or with a woofer on the front of the box and a tweeter mounted on the top for your highs. some may add a midrange for a 3-way set-up. are you using your stock radio or do you have an aftermarket? the 4x6's in the back are somewhat useless since they are down by the floor, so most of the sound is lost before it gets to your ears. if you have an aftermarket deck, particularly one with "high power", i.e. 10-15w per channel or more (stock and "non-high power decks only have @4 watts/channel), a simple set up is to put low-pass filters on your 5 1/4 door speakers to keep the low bass frequencies out and put a box enclosure or two, behind the seats (woofer only, no mid or tweeter speakers,, because again, a lot of the highs will get lost back there) and put a high pass filter on. the frequency you cut them off at will depend a little on the speakers you go with, but whoever you buy them from can help match things up. this is very efficient for several reasons. 1) mid to high frequencies require very little power, but bass does. so, without having to add a separate amp, you use only the power where you need it. 2) it will cut down on distortion dramatically, particularly when you crank it up during your favorite songs because each speaker is only doing a specific job. 3) bass frequencies are non-directional, so again, you won't be wasting sound quality if all you have behind the seats is your bass. If you go the route with the bandpass filters, you'll have to go to an electronics store or audio retailer because you won't find them at wal-mart etc. They do add to the cost but it gives you a semi-custom sound for not a whole lot and if anything, will make it less likely you will blow them up during your headbanging moments. They are about $30/pair for the bandpass filters, and you can get a GOOD pair of 5 1/4s for $40, a box w/8" woofer for $50. So, for @$150 you can get a pretty good set up if you already have a high-power deck. I'll say this though, you'll probaby get at least 10 other posts each with a different way you can do it, either for a lot less or just a different configuration. The problem with sound is, everybody has a different opinion on which way to do it, and all of them are probably good solutions. It all comes down to what sound you want, what you are willing to spend to get it, and how easy it is to do it. Good luck!

cool. yeah, started riding dirt bikes when i was 8, started racing motox just for fun when i got out of college. i've done a decent amount of riding on sport bikes and a couple of harleys. i'd actually like to own one of each, they're such different experiences. i'm familiar with both elizabeth and ellwood city. just passed through/around them a few times, but i know where they are.

I hear ya. I guess I thought you were lumping "everybody else" into the same group if they weren't a jeeper. Otherwise, I agree that some people buy jeeps for all the wrong reasons. As a motorcycle fan, I guess I can relate to what you're saying to a lot of people riding Hogs, or even a lot of the punks on crotch rockets that barely even know how to ride (Kellen Winslow!). What part of Da Burgh do you live in? I lived in the Peters/Canonsburg area for 4+ years until last September. Took me awhile to get used to it there, but my wife and I miss it now. I've always been a Steelers fan, so that was great to be able to go to some games. I miss all the good food! :cheers:

feerocknok, hilarious -- 692 mile truggy, freakin cracked me up. pingpong -- x2; i was gonna post and say the EXACT same thing (guess we think alike here in VA, although I just moved back after being in Steel City for 4yrs), but i'm still kinda new around here and "observing" people's personalities through their topics and comments. LUS, if the guy's cousin let it go, it means he was satisfied with what he got, and Collins knows they have buyers, errr, fags according to swamped, that live outside of TX who will pay top dollar because it says Collins on it. Point being, I'm sure a lot of you guys who do all your own wrenchin' and make regular trips to the JY have bought and sold parts at a profit. If you paid $10 for a part and sold it for $20, you didn't make $10, you made 100% profit. So did Collins. A1, I'm not necessarily defending Collins, at all. But in addition to not being fair to hate on people who have money to burn, and unfortunately I'm not in that group, you can't hate on those who don't go wheelin all the time. Hell, I bought my Manche because 1) I've always thought they were cool, 2) I like things that are unique, 3) I needed something to work around the house with, and 4) because I could get it cheap. I've always wanted a Scrambler, and still do, but even the beaters are more than I'm willing or able to pay for now just to acquire. It's cool your passionate about wheelin, and obviously you believe in being fair. So I tell you what, after you cherry up that MJ of yours, and EVEN after you wheel it hard, PLEASE pm me first when you are ready to sell it for $2k, 'cause if you're as uncapitalistic as you say you are, I'll know I'm getting a killer deal and won't even try to negotiate you down! Ha! And may I step off my soapbox to leave you all with the following: opinons are like farts; they all stink, but the only ones you like are your own. :brows:

also try fedex home delivery, it's another division of fedex ground. is any one item over 50#? it actually might be cheaper to break it down if not. you also might want to get a quote from an LTL company and have it delivered to your work, if you can. none of those items need a liftgate or special delivery requirements, so that might be an option too. good luck..

what size torx bit is needed for the door latch assembly?

i've seen these on ebay, very anxious to see how they look installed etc. fyi, looked at the pics of your MJ. IMO, one of the nicest i've seen, just simple and clean.

Renegade, sent you a PM. Not sure if it went through.

uhhhh, pics?

Cool, thanks! Pressure pinion? WTH did I come up with that? Tension pin is what I've heard them referred as before. Now I know the real deal!

Joe, several options for you here. Is the truck driveable? If so, as 89 said, look in to a one way airfare with one of the discount airlines, you might find something for as little as $80-100, upper end $250 one way. Where in VA is the truck located? I can tell you which airports have discount airlines (i.e. Southwest etc) flying in to them. Another similar option is to ride the ole Greyhound. Downside is you're probably looking at an 18-24hr trip from Wisco to VA, but it would only cost you @$100. I explored the same options when I bought my Comanche from Missouri and had to get it back here to VA. Ultimately with a cheap flight, food and fuel, it was @$200 cheaper than having it shipped. In my mind, like getting milk at a 7-11, I was willing to pay more for the convenience and have it shipped. When I sent out a request for bids to ship it here, as it sounds like you have, I got quotes that were all over the place, $500-1200. Many of them also had a sales pitch attached to the email on which pitfalls to look out for with carriers. Funny though, a lot of those messages contradicted each other. Anyway, I also researched the companies on the Better Business Bureau website. I tried to see how long they had been in business and how many reviews/reports/transactions/complaints they had. However, take the BBB info with a grain of salt as I found out many of the carriers who get bad reps just change their name since a lot of them operate through an internet site, or they submit bogus positive reviews. Also, it is unlikely you are actually dealing with the carriers, rather 99% of who you are dealing with are brokers. Here's where it gets interesting. Most of the brokers will tell you that you need to pay a deposit to "secure your spot on the truck". All you are securing is their broker fee. Most times it's around $200. So, all of the low bids you are getting do not include the broker's fee, they are just telling you how much the carrier is going to charge to do the run. The ole bait and switch. The carrier shows up, loads your truck, then the broker calls you and says there has been a mixup and they need another $200 to deliver your truck. The broker usually does not pay the carrier until the vehicle is delivered, so they get you're deposit and your vehicle loaded with a low ball price then hit you for the rest later. What are you gonna do? Anyway, the few carriers that you deal with direct are usually the expensive ones, but these are the guys pulling 53ft parking lots. So, you're decision is to pay almost double, deal directly with the carrier yourself and have a fairly specific delivery date, OR, take on some risk, go through a broker, save several hundred dollars, but either get hit up for more $$ and/or sweat out an open ended delivery date. There are several other things to consider. 1. Are you buying from an individual or a dealer? If a dealer, they should have carriers they deal with regularly who bring their cars from auction. Try to go through the dealer since he should have a working relationship with many carriers. If possible, get the dealer to pay for it and add it on to your invoice. Most dealers should be willing to do this since they can list it as an operating expense for tax purposes. That way, you're out of the loop on "the mo' money call". I was able to do this and it worked out well. Obviously get a copy of the quote in writing, but understand the dealer is probably going to add on to it for his cost of fronting the money for you. IMO, $50-100 is worth it for at least some peace of mind, and assuming the total cost is still competitive with other realistic quotes you got. 2. Will the carrier deliver direct to you, even at your residence, or do they use a drop off point, sometimes hours away from you? DAS was mentioned above, and they are one that has specific drop off points, i.e. NOT door to door. In my case, the closest they would come was @2hrs away. This also may involve them dropping off at a shipping terminal, and unless you are there to take immediate delivery, the terminal may charge you storage or receiving fees. Obviously, find a carrier that will deliver to your residence or an easy to find shopping center where they have plenty of room to unload. 3. Do you need the truck ASAP? This is a big one and I mentioned before about open ended delivery dates. Other than the bait and switch on price, the most common complaint you will find on these deals is someone waiting weeks, sometimes months, to get their vehicle. Basically the broker takes the deal and either does not have a carrier yet (because he low balled it), or the carrier does not have a full load going your way yet. Most of the guys hauling these deals are the dually pickups you see going down the highway with a 3 car carrier on a gooseneck. So, the carrier may even be trying to fill his trailer for the back haul before he pulls out with your vehicle. Point being, this may take weeks. This is a hard one to overcome because you are just kind of at their mercy. I told my dealer, and all the brokers I got bids from, I was not in a hurry but wanted it within 2 weeks of signing the deal so at least some expectations were set. 4. If you're not going through a dealer and/or they won't front the deal for you, I would not pay the deposit until the day of the load date the broker gives you. As long as you know up front what your total cost is, you should be willing to pay a deposit, after all they and the carrier are not going to start heading your way without something in hand. Anyway, make sure you get a sales invoice for the deposit emailed or faxed to you ASAP with a handwritten signature. Also let the broker know up front if your truck is NOT loaded that day, you expect a refund of your deposit. Call your CC afterwards if this happens to make sure they did it. The balance should not be charged until you take delivery and inspect the truck. 5. Who is going to inspect the truck before it is loaded? Is it a beater or in decent shape? Get a lot of pics before it is loaded and then a copy of the existing damage sheet that was filled out by the carrier when he loaded it (get it THAT day). This way you'll have something already in hand to iinspect with when they show up. So, all of this is not meant to scare the ba-jeezus out of you, obviously it's a lot of common sense. Ask a lot of questions, get it all in writing before you sign or put up $$, etc. etc. Like the old saying goes, "if it sounds too good to be true.........." A few more thoughts in my final chapter of War and Peace here (sorry). I got mine shipped from MO to VA for $700 through a broker, set up by the dealer after I got a lot of my own bids. I'm no geography major but I'd say VA to WI is probably not much further, but fuel IS up 20-30 cents since I shipped mine in September. IMO you should be able to get it there for $700-900. Again, get it in writing there will be no fuel surcharges, no toll surcharges, no unloading fees, no additional broker fees, etc. etc. I bought my Manche from a consignment dealer. I made him send me pics of the hauler (and their name and info) and my MJ AS THEY WERE LOADING IT on the truck. Yeah, they could drive it right back off, but it made me feel better about it. They said it would take a week and I actually got it a couple days early. I can probably find the name of the broker used and maybe the carrier too. I'll look for it and pass it on if I can find it. Last but not least, I'd be willing to consider driving it up there for you for airfare back plus food, fuel and something for my trouble. Depends on a lot of the details, but who knows............. Again, sorry for the length and detail, but hopefully it helps you and maybe some other members. Greg

yeah, there is a pin, no allen screw. i can't remember the correct name for this type of pin, but i think you're correct to push that out and that probably allows you to spin off the latch handle. then just replace it with a new one. i think it's just called a pressure pinion. still would like to hear from someone who knows for sure before i go hacking it trying that.

Has anybody seen the 84 Scrambler on Ebay for $55,000?! That's right, $55k or best offer! I saw this same rig for sale there several months ago, I believe it was in Colorado, and it sold for $25-30k. 692 original miles. Collins Bros has it for sale now.

Can anybody tell me how to take off the latch handle on a vent window? Thanks

happy with what i got, couldn't really justify another one right now, just wanted to know the details on it.

This truck lasted all of a day on AutoTrader.com. I called today to get details and it was already sold. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=234359501

eaco-88, please post any other info you find out and pics of examples as i have been wanting to do this also.

i can't believe how well those things cleaned up, even w/out knowing how dirty they were. i haven't taken a close look at how the covers are on there, so how hard was it to take them off, and after washing you didn't have any trouble getting them back on?

I hear you on the "remember whens". I used to race MX hard core, just for fun, in my 20s, just loved wrenching and competing. 2 kids and marriage changes all that, at least for awhile. But the wife is cool and hasn't given me a hard time on the MJ cuz she knows it gives me something to fill a personal need.

Very cool. That M3 is (was?) super hot. For me, I've always been a 5 fan. Loved the E34s, REALLY love the looks of E39s (mine), hated the E60s when they came out but they're growing on me. I've been wanting to Shark Inject mine with Turner's unit, IYO is it worthwhile? I'd also like to do the AFE intake w/heatshield and since both of those are about the same $, not sure which one to do first. Eventually I'd do an exhaust but that's about it except for getting some 17s on there next spring when I'm due for rubber. I was hoping to get a 530 but mine was such a great deal and I needed it right away after a career change and no more company ride. The 2-5 is spirited enough for me when the tradeoff is 30mpg on road trips and 21mpg around town w/no trouble. FYI, I bought my car from Greg Shaeffer at Mid Atlantic Motorwerkes in Harrisonburg, VA. www.midatlanticmotorwerkes.com, he does club racing also and has been fairly successful with it. You can see his M3s on their website. He just got signed to do 20 races next year with a stock car team out of Richmond after testing for them a few weeks ago. He wasn't really into the stock cars but it is a very successful team so he thought he'd give it a try. Anyhoo, good to find another Bimmer/Jeep fanatic. Greg

LNF, not to get off topic, but what BMWs do you have? My DD is an 03 525i.

cool. were you the one who was painting, err, dying your interior black? were you looking for seats also? i'm sure you've already tried this, but if no have you been to car-parts.com? salvage yard locater site, it's like finding a needle in a haystack for particular items like seats, i.e. that are in good shape. even harder to get them to send you pics, but i think i may have found one for me. i have the equally as hard to come by maroon. i think i'm going to buy the seat, it's the pass side but in real good shape. since my foam is crushed and dead on my driver side, i think my shop can strip the material from this salvaged one and re-do my drivers side. that's the idea anyway.........