JEEPERZ

good to know. i guess you never know unless you try em. :D

yea, i was going to go with the TRxUS before i got these. all the reviews i read online were horrible. thats why i chose these. i guess they have alot of problems. after what i read i would steer clear of em' off road, i guess they are pretty good. i just have to drive so far on the street to get anywhere to take the chance.

I'm excited, can't wait to get the thing out in the hills. i was told they are 8 1/2" rims. i like skinny the skinny tires. :D rockhound, yea I'm sure they are TSLs. but they are the radial TSLs maybe thats the diff? not sure.

here's mine, hope not to offend.

got some new tsl 32 x 10.5 x 15's today and had em mounted. 4" taller than the tires i had on there and alot more aggresive. :D it was dark when i left there so i couldnt get good pictures, but they will come!! what a difference in at least looks, can't wait to head to the hills

I'm game either way. i have a few more things to get done before i can take the mj on the freeway. then I'm all in. it will be mid feb. before i can get everything done. lets set a date. how does the last weekend in february sound to everyone?

Don't Rusty's arms accept stock bushings? They'll last a LOT longer than polyurethane, because they flex more. I'm not sure. ive got it all put together now with the polyurethane and the little larger bolt. i think it was 7/16" didnt drill anything and fit perfectly. used grade 8. if i had to do over again id go with stock bushings. I'm so disappointed in the rustys stuff. I'm done with em. i wish i had the money to scrap the control arms all together, but right now i need to find a rear axle. ill bet the oval trac bar hole is the culprit to the minor wobble i have. even though the bushing in the track bar is new (rustys) is seems a bit squishy as well. i wonder if a stock bushing fits in there. thanks for the oval hole info. ill take it in as soon as i can.

the past few days working on the truck have been a bit unnerving. ive spent tons of time, but don't feel like I'm getting much done. so there actually is no brake noise. i took the brakes apart many times, used shims, anti rattle clips, new brakes and caliper only to find out it wasnt the brakes at all. i found out by taking the caliper off and zip tying it underneath the truck wrapped in a towel with a socket between the calipers so i would still have my left brake, and drove down the alley. the noise was still there. i should've done that first i guess. so i think at this point my noise is coming from the rear axle. i found yesteday the bearings are shot on the drivers side. that project will have to wait a little bit. so over the holiday i also worked on the control arms. i found that when i brake the lower control arm would move and make a knocking sound (different from what i thought was brake noise) so taking the control arms off. i found the bolt was a little bit small for the bushing. went and got new grade 8 bolts for all control arms. i found that 7/16" (i think thats what the were) fit the bushing alot better and would fit through the frame holes just barely. not sure why rustys don't tell you not to use stock bolts. i also discovered the axle track bar mount hole is oval. i need to figure that out yet. the track bar when torqued to spec moves the bolt back and fourth when i turn the steering wheel. so i didnt quit get as much done over the vacation as i had hoped, but its getting there, very slowly but very surely. i don't think I'm going to do the rear axle wheel bearings. i think ill take it in. i should just dump the d35 with something else. so many projects, so little time. :D

happy new year everyone! my resolution this year is to get new tires oh wait thats not really a resolution :eek:

:eek: Why would you even consider trashing the FRAME to adapt it to a pair of wasted control arms? That's a pretty backwards approach. The idea is to modify the cheapest, easiest to replace part, not the part that can never be replaced. If you have stock control arms, the bushings are replaceable, and even new stock control arms aren't that expensive from Crown Automotive or Quadratec. If you have aftermarket control arms, must either use stock bushings or rebuildable Johnny joints. IMHO you should fix what's broken, not mess with the frame of the vehicle to avoid buying a $20 part. yea, your right. i get it. I'm fairly new at this wrenching thing, so its good to get put back on track. thanks. so what do i do about a oval tac bar mount hole on the axle?

Yepp. thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts? Which control arms? Upper/Lower? In either case. replace the arm bushings and/or the arms themselves. Do not drill out the frame mounts. p the control arms are rustys and the axle bushings are energy susp. poly (same problem with them) i have the problem with lowers and uppers

Yepp. thanks eagle! should i use bigger bolts and just drill out the frame mounts?

so ive got the d/w under control now, but if i hit the front right tire on a bump i get a little wobble for a few seconds. the only things i have found that are problematic right now are: control arm bushing holes are bigger than the bolts. can this cause wobble? left rear wheel bearings are bad. can this cause wobble?

well the sound was a loose track bar.!!!!! i went over the ball joint over and over. couldnt find anything wrong with them. so i just kept on it and sure enough. the hd bracket was moving just slightly, grabbed a wrench and tightend right up. that helped oodles with the wobble i was having as well. check, then recheck everything!! so i have the brake rattle still. i can tell whats wrong, but just don't feel like fixing it right now. ill have to get a new steering knuckle which means ball joints. ill get to it, ill just be nice to drive for awhile.

did it make alot of noise as well?

not to sharp on welding. but thanks, that answers the question. as far as what/where I'm talking about. the tabs on the brake pads (top and bottom) rest on the metal from the knuckle so it can slide side to side. where the tabs hit, i have grooves in the knuckle portion from years of wear. its making a horrible racket. I'm suprised no one else has this problem.

well i think the grooves on the kuckle from the brake pad tabs are the culprit. can i have someone weld on the grooves then grind it smooth? or is this a bad idea??

cool!! glad to see a reply. ill do some research and try to find a good location. itll be a week or so before i can get to it though. still trying to get the mj dialed in. :D finding a place between here and there shouldnt be a problem. what time frame would work for you?

yea, i checked it out. i wish the coil clip was the problem. really simple. I'm not sure what it is. the only other thing i can think of is the knuckle that the caliper bolts to. where the brake pad metal hits the knuckle it has worn grooves in it. not sure how to fix that without getting a new one and replacing the ball joints. :cry: anyone?? sounds like its coming along though. wish i had the quick disconnects. maybe after i get all this dialed in. just got back from alignment, my caster is way off. weird because my angle finder says I'm at 7* must be reading it wrong. i bought the lifetime alignment, ill get my moneys worth :D

welcome!! too bad your in norcal or id help you. not sure id be the best help, but i sure have learned alot right here. put on your glasses and read and read and read. lots of good stuff right here. the search feature will become your best friend. great help and nice people too. :cheers:

ill have the mj back from getting aligned (again) in about a half hour. ill check that out. so could it be the coil jumping off the base? seems to loud to be a little clip. hows your post lift stuff coming?

my fiance won't ride in, won't let me spend money on it, won't drive it and won't look at it. i think it really boils down to the fact i work on it all the time. ive been under it all day everyday of the christmas break. ive also been spending about 100 bucks a day on it. i think something is wrong and replace it with a new part. brakes, bushings, u-joints the list goes on and on. pisses her off to no end. i found a new trick though. i pay for parts with my credit card, then when bill time comes i just pay one lump sum and blame it on lifes needs like gas, lunch and stuff. i think shes on to me though :D

i have a rattle coming from my front right brake when i go over bumps. I'm sure its the brakes because if i go over bump with a little pressure on the brakes, no noise. this morning trying to figure it out, i put on new rattle clips first. that didnt work so i put on a new caliper and pads. I'm at a loss. :hmm:

thanks nate, i have already replaced the TREs, the trackbar, all bushings in the front, except one that i ended up replacing yesterday. i checked to see if anything loosened up. so here is where I'm at now. yesterday morning i was certain my ball joints were bad. so i took everything apart in the front end preparing to do them. when i undid the tie-rod from the knuckle i heard a CLANK, the bushing for the steering stabilizer was completely gone. certain this was the problem, i put the axles back in and bolted every thing up. i went a got a rancho 5000 stabilizer and put it on. i was certain this was the problem. took it for a drive and the noise is still there. not sure if i mentioned it, but the death wobble is gone right now after the alignment. but, i can tell its there still lurking in the back ground waiting to rear its ugly head. i say this because when i hit a bump, not even a hard bump i hear a clanking sound and it wobbles ever so slightly. so i know with another day of wheeling, it will be back. so now to the noise, i got under the truck yesterday for hours on end trying to figure it out. finally i have seen the light. i grabbed the brake caliper on the passenger side and gave it a tug and sure enough, the caliper can be moved with my hand and makes that noise. i had the caliper off earlier in the morning so i know its tight, but checked to make sure. looking in the chilton book, it looks like i may be missing the rattle clip??? there is quit a bit of movement in it. i gave up on that for a bit and started working on the caster angle with my control arms. when i had it aligned, they said my caster was off between each side. when i put my control arms on origanaly i made sure the bottom control arms were the same leangth and the top control arms were the same leangth to achieve the proper castor angle. i installed the lowers first, then the upper drivers side. to get the passenger side bolt in, i had to really push on the axle to get the bolt in. (with a bottle jack) yesterday, i took the bolt out of the passenger side and took all the tension out of the axle, adjusted the control arm so it fit without wrenching on the axle, and now my castor angle is the same. but my upper control arms are not the same leangth now. seems pretty wierd. so i figure, and i may be wrong, that caster is more important that the actual leangth of the upper control arms. so I'm still fine tuning that a bit today. so during the work yesterday, i started hearing another clanking sound while i would turn the steering wheel. its coming from the drivers side. i think its the ball joint, i should have just done them while i had everything apart. ill check it out better today.

i had to get the DS extened 1 3/4" and while i was at it, i changed the slip yoke to a yj for better operating angle. i didnt have to do any shim or tc drop or sye. i did however extend the rear brake line and put a new bracket for the parking brake to extend it. that was it.