87manche

skyjacker makes a 3" long AAL, that's what's been in my spring pack for a year. it's not horrible.

anything spring over is going to be 5+ inches in the rear, unless you find some flatter leaf packs. 31's fit alright on the stock suspension, perhaps you should just grab some shackles and some spacers to gain another inch or two and run the 31's like that. bumpstops are your friend.

I think what Eagle and I are both trying to do is impress upon you how tall going SOA really is. I fit 34" tires with 3" of lift and some cutting. What's your tire goal? It shouldn't be anything more than 35's on those stock axles, and should be more like 33's if you want the dana 30 to last long. You could fit 33's on 3" of lift, and at that height you won't have to redo your entire front end.

that's what it comes down to. the front axle bolts in, and anything that you would do to a cherokee applies. Figure on getting 5-6" of lift from a SOA in the rear. You'd need 5.5 or 6" coils up front, new control arms, new trackbar, possibly new steering. You'll spend far more money on the front. Have you considered just leaving the rear SUA and doing an add a leaf or shackle? Mine sits just fine at 4", SUA. Of course, plans are in the works for SOA., just so I stop getting hung up on those stupid spring plates, but in order to keep it at 4" I'm going to experiment with a 2wd leaf pack and some exploder leaves.

2wd or 4wd makes no difference. You can't bolt the cherokee axle in directly, the perch widths are different. You need to have new perches welded onto the axle. going SOA will net you 5+ inches of lift.

well, I put about 400 miles on the axle on saturday. It stops well, way better than the old drums and it didn't fall out of the truck, so I guess I got the perches welded alright ;)

check the rear brakes, I'll bet you find them way out of adjustment. When I had drums (man it's good to say that) I adjusted mine every oil change. The self adjusters are junk.

DO IT if it truly is ready to run and has all the brake stuff there that's a steal. average price around here is $300 for just the housing and shafts. plus it's already geared, so that saves some coin later on.

meh, the more I look at it the less happy I am. I took the easy way out on the u-bolt plates/shocks and such. But I HAD to have the MJ driveable this weekend to help move my wife's grandmother. So, I saved some time now, so I can redo things later.

the easiest way is to drill a 1/8" hole at 12 and 6 o clock on the t-stat flange. So the block can fill up with water and self burp.. but you gotta know that trick before you put it together ;)

87 gives good advice!!! Cycle suspension and take measurements!! Do it once, do it right. (YES, this is experience talking :oops: :eek: ) CW same here, that's why I've got shocks 2" too short in the front.

if anyone wants to replace the cover they have, I've got three D35 covers with screws. you pay shipping.

1/2" maybe? I can't tell, and my friend thought it sat higher? it wasn't that noticeable. I' ll take an after pic tomorrow, I took a picture right before the axle swap after I got the bumper on.

don't guess at what shocks you need. You really need to disconnect the shocks/swaybar and cycle the suspension and take measurements.

an 8.8 looks real nice under there ;)

stock 4wd packs, 3" skyjacker full length AAL.

there's the pics. The ebrake I'm going to handle using a cable thimble and the stock lines or I'll adapt the exploder cables that were on the axle (thanks pete!) here;s the cable thimble:

the AT and MT models have different TPS modules, and I'm pretty sure they're differently. It confused the hell out of me when I tried tyo adjust mine, as the voltages are backwards, adn the AT TPS has a different connector.

hmm, I've never really looked that closely. Next time I go to the pickn part I'll have to see if that MJ has one, doubtful, seems it was a stock sport truck with a 2.5

are they seriously that rare? I just assumed since I had one that it was a popular option.

time to start cutting up the front shetmetal :brows:

trail use only, buy the swampers and don't look back. I feel that they're the best all around tire. Sure, some do better in rocks and some do better in mud, but the swamper is the defacto standard in mixed trail riding. if it's really a trail tire then I'd get bias ply. you can air them down without fear of damage to the tire, and the sidewalls are tougher. FWIW, the special service 34x9.5 has the deepest skid depth of any swamper, 27/32

drove the MJ for the first time in a month. it drives in 2wd now! and the brakes seem good. just a few things to tidy up regarding the e-brake and the swap is finished.

oh, I report posts left and right. Like I said, the people are vastly different than the online personalites. the MWC welcomed my noobness and many of the members hooked up parts for cheap when I was first lifting the MJ. good people, when you meet them at a campfire.

it will strip off any kind of wax that was on the paint. So after googone you need to put a few coats of wax on it to protect the paint. I'd also recommend an "eraser wheel" FOund at the local body shop. It's a rubber wheel, chuck it in the drill and it will take the stickers right off.