Lenard

where is the switch on the t-case? and what about the three lines going to the CAD? will they suck air once i try to engage the 4x4

i crawled under my truck today to check my rearend and i decided to mess with my vacuum lines to try to get my 4x4 working cause i never really messed with it yet. there are 4 lines going to the t-case, red,blue,yellow and green i think, the red one is the only one that is sucking air, (and its really sucking!) the other three don't, is that right? so then i pulled the three lines going to the CAD, green, green and yellow, and none of them where sucking air, so i went back to where they connected to the metal lines and checked there, and there was no sucking from the metal lines. also the round thing that the vacuum lines hook to on the CAD will spin almost all the way untill one of the nipples hits the axle, is it supposed to spin around? thanks in advance.

ok i'm not to smart here, doing what you guys are saying, wouldn't that have it engaged all the time?

ive been having problems with my 4x4 locking in, i was having trouble a couple weeks ago and i got under it and wiggled the vacuum lines and that seemed to fix it, but now it's not working again, also my 4x4 light will stay on for a day or so after i try to engage to 4 wheel drive. is it my vacuum lines, or my CAD, or both?? Thanks

then mine would be the 207, dang!

here in MO if you got it licensed for 18,000lbs or more you only have to have one in the front, other wise front and back, i have one on the back but it is mounted to the frame BEHIND the bumper( so you can't see it) and the front one is so low to the ground and is usually bent backwards you can't see it either.

dang! thats what i'm talking about but mine is on top of the t-case, what year is yours?

That's why you have to rotate the tire around twice. :D I forgot to mention that if the axle has a posi in it, then the owner would need to jack up both rear tires and rotate them around only once. ok thanks, i got a little kubota tractor that will lift the back end up. i love having pipes for bumpers. :D

yeah, you got to drop the T-case to do that though, I was just under mine looking at the vacuum lines cause it hasn't been work right, and i couldn't even get my hand to where i could touch the lines going into the T-case. :hmm: I have never seen one that you have to drop the t-case. I have changed these many times and it only takes 5 minutes or less. Is there something different about the '86 than other models?? i'm talking about the vacuum lines going into the T-case between the floor of the truck and the top of the T-case. those are vacuum lines right?

I know there is a tag on the back of the rear diff. that tells you what it is, but mine is so rusted up i can't read it anymore. Is there any other way to tell what i have?

yeah, you got to drop the T-case to do that though, I was just under mine looking at the vacuum lines cause it hasn't been work right, and i couldn't even get my hand to where i could touch the lines going into the T-case.

well i checked at the local mechanic shop today, he wants $270 for labor!!! :mad: then i still have to by the parts!!!! but i'm going to have to get it done prolly within the next week or so, it is worse than i thought. i couldn't hardly get it to move today.

you did every thing in that short amount of time? :eek: i don't know enough about trannies or clutches to do it myself :oops: i think it would be safer to have somebody who knows what there doing to replace it.

Does any body have ballpark estimate on what it would cost to have a new clutch put in? mine is starting to slip and seeing as how it's my only truck to drive i don't want it to strand me, it's got 182,000 miles and i'm pretty sure it's the original clutch, does it sound about right to be going out now? thank in advance.

yes ,but it takes sometime to lock in, longer than i think it should :nuts:

i know somebody asked about this a month or so ago, but i'm to lazy to go back and find it :D anyway, my 4WD light is on all the time now, it dosn't matter what i do, it don't go off. other than ripping the dash off and taking the light out what else can i do? thanks in advance.

there was a hole in the new piece of line, i don't how big or small, but any hole is bad. the only thing i could think of that might of caused it was the other night i put the brake pedal on the floor to try keep from hitting a d@mn deer, that may have been enough pressure to pop it...

Bout a month ago had a brake line break going to the back tire, had that fixed, $50. well the same thing happened yesterday, same brake line, I haven't run over any thing that could have hit and broke it, and it was secured properly so i know hitting bumps on the road ain't causing it, any idea's???

Ok like my sig. says i got a 86 mj with the 2.5L 4speed. i want a bigger engine, can any body give me a rough estimate on what it would cost to put a 4.0 in it, and what all has to be changed to make it go in? would i have to get a different transmission also?

since we are on the topic of lifts... i want to lift my manche to, i was just figuring on doing the SOA for the back, i've been told that i have torshin bars (sp?) on the front, can i just crank those up without having to replace shocks or the coil springs?

sorry, right now the camera is broke, and i'm not smart to figure out how to post pics anyway. :nuts:

What would a 87 manche 2wd, 4spd, 2.5L w/AC, 400,000 some miles be worth? The body is not in bad shape, the floor board is gone and the front end needs to be fixed, ball joints ect.. it runs smooth and drives good. oh, its the sport truck if that makes a difference.

don't mean to be a smart@$$ here but yes, your welds look very good, I'm in a two year welding program so i'm starting to be able to see what welds are good and what aren't. I had no idea your could build your own drive shaft like that and make it work..

now i got another problem, whenever i hit the horn the needle goes down between the 1 and the 0 and just flops around, and it takes it all night just sitting there before it will quit doing that. whats the deal?

same thing on mine, luckily i caught it in time, must be a factory flaw.