FxRacing282

it is possibly a bad starter

high temp silicone works magic, just be sure to have the engine all cleaned up and let it cool for about 12 hours.

one of the middle springs, my friend did this with his 83 Scottsdale and he lost about 1-2 inches and got some serious flex out of his rear end with lift blocks

well if you want it to sound beefy and have some balls then i suggest hi-top or dome pistons (.30 overbore), stiff valve springs hydrollics rollers, high performance cam, oversize injectors and a nice header pipe and a high flow cat with a cherrybomb on the end. and youll have a nice looking, sounding and one fast Comanche!

so you guys don't like the deal?

hmm well i found a D44 for $100 :bowdown: with no brake stuff on it :cry: any ideas on what it would cost to but brakes on it? can i use D35 brakes on it?

hmm both of those cams look to have low rise but I'm not to familiar with jeeps. id say the top one. or if you can get one thats good to like maybe idle to 3k you don't loose power its just that the cam is designed to operate better at those RPMs and youll make enough torque to get going pretty good.

yes very true Pete. we can only hope he has already cleaned up the terminals and made a secure connection

With a fresh battery, it's possible to drive normal short hops for several days without the alternator putting any charge back in the battery. true but if it runs fine and then its turned off and then it just clicks then you know something is robbing power.

seen em last night on ebay for $65!

its happened to my familys cars before

its not the alternator cause if it was the truck would die after a short while. try disconnecting your radio or something like that and then charge your battery

alright well when i do the swap I'm gonna get 33's or 35's and new wheels too. who likes new mudders on stock tj wheels? i mean com'on!

xj tank will fit right on top of your bed and thats about it. partstrain.com has one for like $105

yes it would have the diff on the wrong side. what is a resonable price for a used rear axle out of an exploder?

well i used a warn to pull my atv out of a hole and i mean a hole and it works great, i installed a ramsey 8000 on my dads h3 and it works awesome not to slow or nothing kinda expensive but you only buy it once... usually

weird well check the junkyard and find a pump off of a 4.0 and see if its the same as the one you got. (assuming you have 2 or more vehickles) well time for bed, deer season is coming up and i gots to find em early

yeah my dad had an 05 2500 with a cummins and it hauled. burnouts and torque like no tomarrow plus petrol is more effiecnt and you don't have to have it at like 4500 rpm to get torque like you would on a SBC

thanks. the 94 1500 is ifs and its not worh doing a swap for that. ill call around tomarrow for the rear end but I'm in no quick rush to get a rear end seeing a i have to be able to buy it and to do that i have to have a job which means i have to have c average or better in my classes :headpop: :mad:

and for your diagram try the new napa? catalog online it should be halfway decent. maybe go to the store and see if they will print you a diagram...

http://www2.partstrain.com/products/Eng ... D-002.html well just cause i don't want to do laundry i checked out fuel pumps on partstrain.com and found out that the pump for an 87 2.5l is the same pump for an 87 4.0 so here's the pump that you need. http://www2.partstrain.com/products/Eng ... ml?index=4

well the fuel pumps may have different output PSI so id double check maybe check a few different years for the 4.0 pump. could just check the part no. on the website.

yeah chevy 6 bolt is the pattern. but anyone up here knows that a d44 is worth lots of money. and i don't have lots of money. what is a general guideline for chevy axles and there max tire size for everyday use?

hmm... 94 chevy 1500 10-bolt 3.73 posi $200 worth it?

okay so i can change it with a non c-clip?