comanche 88

I'm no suspension expert but that just seems weird to me. That whole 4-link with the top links between the top of the diff and the rear crossmember, wouldn't that cause the whole axle to rotate quite a lot as the suspension compresses? and it seems that mounting the shocks so close together you would have almost no damping of side to side movement :???:

I clicked on the link and received a message saying I was not authorized to view that topic. What gives? I get the same thing :???:

About 3 o'clock unloaded

I never thought i'd say this but I actually like the way it looks with whitespokes on your MJ. My white CJ7 came with a set of whitespokes with winter tires and I just had this idea that they would look horrible so I never tried them on the car. Just might give them a try and see how it looks

Please explain :???: I'll be putting a 242 in mine shortly, so do I need to permanently engage the CAD?

Thanks for the advice guys, think i'll go the POR-15 route. mfpdm: how much POR-15 did you use to cover the underside? did you spray or brush it on? this stuff is really really expensive here, the only supplier i found charges about 100 USD for 1 liter (a little less than a quarter gallon) :eek: So I don't want to buy much more than I need. The POR-15 chassiscoat is not available here so I think I'll use the tiecoat instead and then the undercoating.

I'm just about finished tearing down my MJ for a full restore and I'll send it off to have the underside blasted. I need some advice on what to paint it with afterwards. My idea is to use paint for steel hull boats, it seems really logical to me that this would give great protection since these boats are exposed to saltwater constantly for decades before needing to be repainted. Thing is, while this seems obvious to me I have never seen anyone else use these products, why is that. anyone out there have any good arguments why it would/would'nt work?

Great writeup JpnJim After seeing how much work it is I think i will straighten and bondo the ones I have. The dents are quite small anyway. 86Fubar: I've been condsidering doing that instead of building rock rails attached to the frame and pinch seam, only problem is that the swb comanches are really rare here in Norway (only 16 sold total) so I'm a bit reluctant when it comes to doing non-reversible modifications to comanche specific body panels

My rockers are a bit dented and I was thinking I'd replace them instead of straightening and bondoing them since I'm tearing down the whole car and fixing rust anyway. My question is this, are the rockers comanche specific or can you use front 4 door XJ rockers?

That is one sweet Comanche :bowdown: Does anybody know the name of the rims? I have the same one on my CJ7 and I'd like to find an extra one for the spare tire

Really :huh???: I started looking for a bolt when it didn't come off easily but I couldn't see any. Is it within each part of the the two piece connector or is there one securing both parts?

I'm in the process of clearing out my engine bay for paint and an engine swap (renix to HO) and I'm having trouble disconnecting the connectors that go in the connector behind the fuse panel. I've been quite brutal with it but it doesn't budge. Has anyone else had this problem? any advice on how to get it off? I've soaked it in rust solvent in the hope that it's just that the pins are corroded but I doubt that that could be the only problem. I'm also a bit confused by the part that penetrates the firewall, it seems to have flanges on both sides of the firewall which means it wouldn't come out of the firewall either way :huh???:

Great to see other norwegian MJ's

I'm going to do a full restoration on my comanche this winter and I have this idea that I want to make the bedsides removable. There are two reasons for this, first to get to any rust that might be behind there and secondly so that I can take them off to inspect for any future rust. Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone know how the bedsides are fixed to the rest of the bed? spotwelds along the inside rail and forward edge? What about the wheel wells? My idea was to drill out any spotwelds and replace with screws. any viewpoints for or against?

Norway? I bet you are discouraged every time you leave a salvage yard. :rotfl2: You thinking about rust? actually mine's not bad, very little rust when I got two years ago but now it popping up ewerywhere since I use it in winter also.

I've never seen another MJ on the road here in Norway. There are only 55 registered mj's in the whole of norway :eek:

i have the Skyjacker kit and I can confirm that it is made for the Comanche. The AAL is full length and the ride didn't seem to suffer too much, I did however remove the original overload spring to get maximum articulation since I was'nt intending to haul any big loads. it has sagged quite a bit more on the drivers side than on the passenger side but this could just as well be my tired original leafs.

I won't be able to check out the #s on the box before tomorrow, but i had look at the summit part# from my order and at least i ordered the correct part http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294908280+4294925008+4294925134+400018+4294895113+4294902613+115+4294908274 these are the open carrier types available http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294908280+4294925008+4294925134+400018+4294902613+4294908274+4294902612+115+4294895138

I have a Dana 44 axle with track-lock and about a year ago i purchased a Powertrax No-slip for it, I tried to install it in the axle recently and everything was going smootly with installing it in the carrier until it was time to insert the pinion shaft. Then I found that the original shaft was held in place by c-clips on the inside of the spider gears while the new was supposed to be held in place by a retaining bolt :???: Serves me right for not looking closely at the locker parts i guess :wall: Of course my carrier doesn't have the hole for this bolt and there was no way re-use the old shaft as these clips would not fit inside the locker. Have i bought the wrong locker or is my carrier a bit odd? I needed the car a few days later so I put the original stuff back in the carrier and reinstalled it. A few days later I had an idea and I need your input on whether will work and be safe. Here it goes -if I remember correctly there is bit of space between the locker and the carrier where the pinion shaft goes through, what if I mill a groove in the new shaft just inside of where it goes through the carrier on both sides and use the c-clips to keep it centered in the carrier? my main concern is the load on the pinion shaft when the locker locks up and if the milling of the shaft could cause it to break at this point?

Cragar soft 8's 8*15 with 31/10,5 TrxUS MT

I think I want one http://englishrussia.com/?p=2061#more-2061

How about shipping to europe (Norway)? I'd like to order two t-shirt and one hoodie, is it possible to order some stickers at the same time and get those in the same shipment?

We've got twins!!

The Warn transfer skid works, at least as long as you have the 231 transfer.