kook911

I'm going to have to go rent the equipment again from the parts store. I’m assuming that they were open due to them holding vac but I could be wrong.

Update and even more problems. Did the switch and pulled vacuum on the system. Held at 27 mg for an hour. Then when I went to put the r134a into the system I could not get the system to charge. I made sure that I had power going to the compressor plug and got 12v. Then check the low pressure switch and got 11v. I jumped the low pressure switch just to make sure the compressor actually works and it kicked on with the low pressure switch jumped. So I went out and bought a new low pressure switch and still can’t get the system to charge. So I don’t know what’s wrong and I’m about to just pay a shop to get this ac working.

I believe this is the hose you wanted as I just replaced both hoses that were attached to the condenser. All four ac hoses can still be ordered and I included the other part number for the ac hose that attaches to the condenser. UAC HA 111291C A/C Refrigerant Liquid Hose UAC HA 10051C A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose

i have the 4.0.

One valve spring sits on the drier side and the other sits in the hose. The flat face brass faces each other. This hose is connects to the expansion valve on the left side. If needed I can take them out as I haven’t put any 134a into the system, but right now they are in the lines. Thanks for helping with the gray lines. Hook up and good to go.

I am replacing all the parts except for the evaporator core and the hoses attached to the expansion valve. My question concerns the two spring parts located on one of the hoses and the drier. Some forums suggest these parts are unnecessary, while others say they are essential. Are these parts needed, or are they obsolete for the R12 system? Additionally, I have a gray plastic hose coming out above the expansion valve that is capped on my truck (highlighted yellow). What is this hose for, and do I need it for the AC to function properly?

Can someone take and post a pic of how the cable is supposed to attach to the clip. I knocked my cable out and can’t figure out how to attach it back. All the photos on google look like they were taken by a potato and none of them are clear. The pic I am posting is showing what I need.

You got a link on the one you purchased?

Thanks for the heads up. I didn’t know there was such a wrench. I will go buy a set and report back.

Ok now the next problem is that I believe the lines are rusted by the threads. Even under the truck by the LSV they are not breaking free. Will this be a cut the lines and redo the entire lines?

Cruiser I’m assuming that this pic is correct?

Cruiser wonderful information and I should had asked before I went out and grabbed one from a junkyard. Since I can’t return it I will go through with the XJ master booster and proportioning valve. Will the MJ factory brake lines screw into the XJ valve without any modifications?

I know there are many ways doing this. I went out and bought the 95/96 mc/booster, so I’m ready to install this in the truck. If there is a solid reason to go the other way please let me know.

Did the XJ ever come with factory disc rears? Checking rockauto shows drums for all the years of XJ.

I have read most of the write ups on how eliminate the LSV. My question is on the proportioning valve does it matter if it is a XJ or YJ valve? I’m asking because when I search just for the YJ valve the options that come up show that the YJ and XJ valve are the same. So before I get into this I just want to make sure.