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Based on the manufacture, yes most skid plates are bolted on using self tappers if they do not use an existing hole. Some of them will bolt onto your factory tranny crossmember using a bolt and a nut as well. All manufacturer's are different however.

 

As far as the rock sliders go, yes most also will bolt on using self tappers on the frame rails. A quality set will also have a pinch seam mount that uses a nut and bolt as seen here;

 

DSCF0128.JPG

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how do I bolt up skidplates to the framerail? self tapping screws with a pilot hole drilled?

Are you asking about factory skid plates, or aftermarket? All holes for factory skid plates are already there. The transfer case skid uses "thread-serts," which are like industrial strength pop rivets with a screw thread in the center. You insert it into the hole, use an appropriate tool (there are a couple of types) to collapse the sleeve and lock it in place, and it is then a threaded hole for bolting something to.

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how do I bolt up skidplates to the framerail? self tapping screws with a pilot hole drilled?

Are you asking about factory skid plates, or aftermarket? All holes for factory skid plates are already there. The transfer case skid uses "thread-serts," which are like industrial strength pop rivets with a screw thread in the center. You insert it into the hole, use an appropriate tool (there are a couple of types) to collapse the sleeve and lock it in place, and it is then a threaded hole for bolting something to.

Yeah, when my old one was pulled the "thread serts" were destroyed and now i want to remount my t-case skid plate and don't have the tool to put the serts in or the thread serts and i don't know where to get them, so i am trying to find the best way to mount this skid plate.

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how do I bolt up skidplates to the framerail? self tapping screws with a pilot hole drilled?

Are you asking about factory skid plates, or aftermarket? All holes for factory skid plates are already there. The transfer case skid uses "thread-serts," which are like industrial strength pop rivets with a screw thread in the center. You insert it into the hole, use an appropriate tool (there are a couple of types) to collapse the sleeve and lock it in place, and it is then a threaded hole for bolting something to.

Yeah, when my old one was pulled the "thread serts" were destroyed and now i want to remount my t-case skid plate and don't have the tool to put the serts in or the thread serts and i don't know where to get them, so i am trying to find the best way to mount this skid plate.

 

There is a great write up on this on jeep forum.

 

Here it is:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390638

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Yeah, when my old one was pulled the "thread serts" were destroyed and now i want to remount my t-case skid plate and don't have the tool to put the serts in or the thread serts and i don't know where to get them, so i am trying to find the best way to mount this skid plate.

JC Whitney used to sell thread-sert kits, and the simplest form of the tool is just a couple of washers and a bolt to tighten while you collapse the sleeve.

 

There's also a local industrial fastener company near me that has them, and the install kit. Here's the page with those products:

http://www.nutty.com/rivets.shtml

 

I'm pretty sure they sell mail order, and they're good folks to deal with. It's a toll-free number -- give 'em a call.

 

Note: The inserts are available in both steel and aluminum. The steel inserts are almost impossible to collapse without a hydraulic setting tool. Get the aluminum inserts, and be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads when you install the skid plate.

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Thanks motion, will motion offroad be offering any of those for a longbed anytime soon? :cheers:

As soon as we kinda find a long bed locally to buy for cheap; or a customer with one to borrow we'll be making them. :cheers:

 

Sounds good

 

one more question: if i did bolt those ones up how far off would they be from fitting? i would guess only 3" on each side b/c the wheelbase difference is only 6"

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Sounds good

 

one more question: if i did bolt those ones up how far off would they be from fitting? i would guess only 3" on each side b/c the wheelbase difference is only 6"

We've never held our SWB sliders upto a LWB MJ to be honest with you. I know that the frame rails differ a bit between the models. The problem would be the rear mounting arm either being to short or to long, not to mention the overall length.

 

For all I know they bolt up and the length is just to short. We just can't find a LWB MJ around locally to try or to build a set of LWB rails around.

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