School me on 2wd front brakes

[UNL1MTD]

I'm about ready to replace all the components (sans calipers) that make up my front brakes. Being that I have a 2wd axle, its new to me as I've only ever serviced a 4wd front axle for new brakes. At the part store, for each side I got two bearings, a seal, rotors, pads, and wheel bearing grease. I've read over the Haynes manual, but the whole process is still cloudy to me. I'm sure it will make more sense once its all apart, but I figured that asking for pointers before I got started couldn't hurt.

 

First off, am I missing any parts?

 

The manual isn't specific on what happens to the spindle when the rotor is removed. Will it want to fall out or is it pressed int the knuckle some how?

 

Will the caliper need to be removed from the knuckle to get the rotor off or just opened as shown to insert new pads?

 

I'll be able to 'load' the rotors with bearings and seal then slide it onto the spindle correct?

 

Is the retaining nut for the spindle really only torqued to 15 ft/lbs? That seems ridiculously low because the 4wd version is at 150 ft/lbs or more.

 

I'm working on an '87, not sure that that matters (more so its a 2wd). If I can think of more questions, I'll just tag them on.

 

-Sean

[carnuck]

There are 2 kinds of 2wd rotors. Ones like a rear wheel drive car has, and the others are the same as 4x4 MJ/XJs.

[mjeff87]

You have everything you need except new cotter pins for the spindle nut….don’t reuse the old ones. Pull the old pin, remove the locking collar, nut and washer and pull the old rotor off. Grease the new bearings up, insert the inner bearing on the back of the rotor then press the new seal in. Clean the spindle off (it’s bolted to the knuckle, it won’t go anywhere), apply a thin coat of w-b grease, slide the new rotor over it and install the outer bearing, washer, and nut hand tight. Put the wheel back on with a couple of lugnuts, then spin it anticlockwise while you snug up the spindle nut, which will preload the bearings. Once it’s snug and there’s no play in the wheel, take the wheel back off, add the locking collar and new cotter pin, and reassemble the rotors with new pads.

 

I wouldn’t torque the spindle nut to any specific torque value, but 15 lb/ft sounds about close. It’s more of a feel type thing….you want it tight enough to eliminate any play between the bearings and the races, but not so tight that you burn up the bearings.

 

Jeff

[Kenosha Warrior]

sort of a hijack. rotors on a D30 (4x4) just slid over the hub correct, no ripping things all apart?

[mjeff87]

yup, the studs are pressed into the hub flange, and the rotor slips over them.

 

Jeff

[brigarpeon]

I wouldn’t torque the spindle nut to any specific torque value, but 15 lb/ft sounds about close. It’s more of a feel type thing….you want it tight enough to eliminate any play between the bearings and the races, but not so tight that you burn up the bearings.

 

Jeff

Here's what I do:

Tighten Spindle nut to 30-40 ft lbs to properly seat bearing.

Loosen Spindle nut completely until it can be turned by hand.

Finger tighten Spindle nut by hand without rotating hub.

Install the cotter pin:

if the slot in the nut is just past the alignment hole the nut may be loosened to fit the cotter pin, if the slot in the nut is just approaching the alignment hole the nut may be tightened to fit the cotter pin.

 

Check for excessive End Play by rotating the hub by hand 2 -3 complete rotations. The hub should rotate freely. There should be no noticeable movement when the hub is moved parallel in any direction of the centerline. Just wiggle it firmly while rotating.

Readjust as necessary by completely unseating the bearing.

[UNL1MTD]

You have everything you need except new cotter pins for the spindle nut….don’t reuse the old ones. Pull the old pin, remove the locking collar, nut and washer and pull the old rotor off. Grease the new bearings up, insert the inner bearing on the back of the rotor then press the new seal in. Clean the spindle off (it’s bolted to the knuckle, it won’t go anywhere), apply a thin coat of w-b grease, slide the new rotor over it and install the outer bearing, washer, and nut hand tight. Put the wheel back on with a couple of lugnuts, then spin it anticlockwise while you snug up the spindle nut, which will preload the bearings. Once it’s snug and there’s no play in the wheel, take the wheel back off, add the locking collar and new cotter pin, and reassemble the rotors with new pads.

 

I wouldn’t torque the spindle nut to any specific torque value, but 15 lb/ft sounds about close. It’s more of a feel type thing….you want it tight enough to eliminate any play between the bearings and the races, but not so tight that you burn up the bearings.

 

Jeff

 

thanks for the advice