SomeNew Name Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 Can Anyone explain to me how I would check the serviceability of my Transmission mount... what would I look for if it was shot? What would I hear if the truck was running? What kinda tests can I do? how expensive are replacements? And is the tranny only supported at that one crossmember? or is there another spot I should be checking? Cause earlier in the day I was thinking about the rattling sound I was hearing from the trans tunnel area, but didn't know what it was at all.. so I went underneth the truck while it was running and watched and listened the sound is diffently comming from somewhere around the tranny, and sometimes LOOKs like the tranny is bouncing up and hitting the top of the tunnel. When it seems to be bouncing around it sounds like the engine is being loaded at idle ONLY. these sounds from both the tranny and the engine. kinda diminish as the rpms are increased. Any experience with this issue would be great thank for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 Well mine snapped off all the studs that hold the trany down when it went bad.....so if you can move the transmission side to side thats a good way to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 The transmission is only supported at the one location, the rubber / steel mount at the cross member. To check the condition of the mount, take a long heavy duty pry bar and pry between the cross member and the transmission, you will see if the rubber is torn and not keeping the transmission in place, or letting it twist from the torque. I have seen several where the rubber is torn and letting the transmission 'twist' Depending on the transmission you have, there are 2 different mounts, one is for the AW4 and the AX15, the other, more expensive one is for the BA10. They are not interchangeable. Most online parts places have mount for the AW4, the only source I've seen for the BA10 mount is here - http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html You can tell which one you have from the "slot" on the right rear for a bracket to support the cat on the exhaust. That's the BA10 mount, and the more expensive one. Other sources would be a JY or some one that has a 'good' one laying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 23, 2008 Author Share Posted March 23, 2008 Yeah I'm diffently rocking the AW4 and yeah it does get torqued intermittintly. but the rubber looked decient. wasn't being extruded, or wasn't even split on the laminations. is there something else I should be looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 It might 'look' good, but use the pry bar and see if it moves, also you might want to check your motor mounts. Basely, the whole drive train is only mounted in 3 places, the two motor mounts, and the transmission mount. The pry bar will also show it the bolts are loose, missing, or sheared off. And if your running the AW4, then the mount you need is only about $16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 23, 2008 Author Share Posted March 23, 2008 Would this be something a modest wrench could tackle.. with very limited equipment? any equipment that is a MUST have for this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 Are you sure it's not the exhaust bangin' around? I had that problem in the 88. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 23, 2008 Author Share Posted March 23, 2008 I wish it was the exhaust.. but it's not going anywhere the exhaust is probely the single most sturdy thing on this truck.. and I've already eliminated it from the possible causes.. but thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 The job replacing the mount?? On the scale of 1-10, about a 2. A socket set, a floor jack, or any jack and a block of wood under the AW4, to take the weight off the mount, and un-bolt away. And if you need to do the motor mounts - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... otor+mount Pete - I read this - LOOKs like the tranny is bouncing up and hitting the top of the tunnel. That's why I'm thinking transmission mount.....or motor mounts. And if you can get a Haynes manual, it's all explained in there how to check and replace the tran's mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 23, 2008 Author Share Posted March 23, 2008 I have the 1990 FSM but wasn't able to find the tranny mount info yet again I wasn't really looking that hard either. plus there is alot of pages from the transmission Chapter that are missing :( probely on one of those pages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I have the 1990 FSM but wasn't able to find the tranny mount info yet again I wasn't really looking that hard either. plus there is alot of pages from the transmission Chapter that are missing :( probely on one of those pages? It's in the Engine Service Procedures section, under Engine Rear Mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 The job replacing the mount?? On the scale of 1-10, about a 2. A socket set, a floor jack, or any jack and a block of wood under the AW4, to take the weight off the mount, and un-bolt away. I'd rate it about a 1 Bob. :D 20 minutes max. While I replaced mine I pulled out the cross member and cleaned out the 3" of crud packed in there, so it took about 30 minutes. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 Well I'm looking at tackling this job On Saturday, I'm more or less worried about not being able to get the crossmember bolts out without snappin any off. Does The crossmember really need to be taken off to do this job? or could I manage to slide it in without it removing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 You can leave the cross member on, there's enough room to jack up the tranny into the tunnel to clear the lower bolts on the mount. It just gives you more room to work, to get the tranny bolts out. Just keep an eye on the fan blades hitting the radiator, should not be a problem, but before you jack it all the way up, check it. And make sure you put a block of wood between the jack and the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 29, 2008 Author Share Posted March 29, 2008 well I removed the mount and replaced it but while tighting the final mount to cross member bolt the stud snapped off, there must have been a hairline crack or something cause I had only turned the nut a quarter turn and it snapped off, the install was easy as hell, but am far too lazy to remove it to return it. Think I can get away with only the 3 studs holding it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Yea, I think the 3 bolts will hold up, hopefully it was on the right (passenger) side, where the torque push down, and not pulls up. Run it and see what it feels like, and then b*@$£ to the parts place......and if need, replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Yea, I think the 3 bolts will hold up, hopefully it was on the right (passenger) side, where the torque push down, and not pulls up. Run it and see what it feels like, and then @#$% to the parts place......and if need, replace it. Replace it, UB an expert now. :D I would not want a missing bolt on the tranny mount. Get your $$ back for the POS aftermarket mount you must have put on and get one from the dealer, or check out Ebay. I got a NOS Mopar mount for $18 including shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Yea, I think the 3 bolts will hold up, hopefully it was on the right (passenger) side, where the torque push down, and not pulls up. Run it and see what it feels like, and then @#$% to the parts place......and if need, replace it. about that.. t was the most forward on the drivers side :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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