Motor Flush

[GosaGT1988]

I just used Solder Seal Gunk High Mileage Motor Flush when I went to change my oil and I have to admit, that stuff works great. It costs about $3.00 - $4.00 but it's well worth it. READ the instructions carefully when doing so. I also decided to use 20W-50 motor oil after I did the flush. My engine has 244,000 miles on it and now it drives like a dream. I couldn't believe all the junk that came out when I drained my oil pan after using this stuff.

[chicofuentes0224]

Where did ya buy it?

[jeepthing07]

I have herd nothing but bad things about flushing engines. like engine failures because all of the crud that was stuck to your engine is now floating around in it. i flushed my 2.5 with seafoam its not supposed to be as harsh and i still changed my filter twice to make sure i got rid of as much of the gunk as possible. it didn't seem to have hurt mine

[chicofuentes0224]

I have herd nothing but bad things about flushing engines. like engine failures because all of the crud that was stuck to your engine is now floating around in it. i flushed my 2.5 with seafoam its not supposed to be as harsh and i still changed my filter twice to make sure i got rid of as much of the gunk as possible. it didn't seem to have hurt mine

 

Oh, oh, any other opinions on the flush. :popcorn:

[A-man930]

I hesitate... Sometimes I feel all that gunk is holding mine together :roll:

[GosaGT1988]

There's a trick to the possibility of gunk floating around. Use a less expensive brand motor oil, preferably 20W50, and then about a month after you do the flush, change your oil again using whatever you prefer. Any gunk that MAY be floating around will be gone. Trust me, I have 244,000 miles on my baby and after the flush I noticed a much better driving experience. I've used other brand motor flushes and followed the same procedure and never had any problems. I've owned nothing but Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicles ever since I started driving and never experienced engine failure.

[dragonrider477]

There's a trick to the possibility of gunk floating around. Use a less expensive brand motor oil, preferably 20W50, and then about a month after you do the flush, change your oil again using whatever you prefer. Any gunk that MAY be floating around will be gone. Trust me, I have 244,000 miles on my baby and after the flush I noticed a much better driving experience. I've used other brand motor flushes and followed the same procedure and never had any problems. I've owned nothing but Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicles ever since I started driving and never experienced engine failure.

i guess then it is safe to say that you have never owned a dodge intrepid late 90's with the famous 2.7 l. v-6. i have yet to see one of these last more than about 50-60 thou without big problems.

[possum]

Yeah all the Intrepids I see look great But they all seem to have smoke screens coming out of the back.

[NewToJeeps]

I have junked about 7-8 Intrepids in the last 6 months. All of them had the same v-6 and the same problem with the cams/timing belt. I have heard it costs somewhere between $700-$1500 to replace the belts alone. I don't know how true it is though. I do know i can't sell parts off of them, people just refuse to even try to work on them around here. I have got where when i buy one the converter and radiators come out and it goes straight to the scrap yard.

[aemsee]

My Jeeps always run much better after I wax them, too :D .

Not a fan of motor flushes. Seen many that died soon after having them done, but realistically, they were bound to die anyhow because of the sludge. The flush just kinda helped 'em along.

[jared]

I have junked about 7-8 Intrepids in the last 6 months. All of them had the same v-6 and the same problem with the cams/timing belt. I have heard it costs somewhere between $700-$1500 to replace the belts alone. I don't know how true it is though. I do know i can't sell parts off of them, people just refuse to even try to work on them around here. I have got where when i buy one the converter and radiators come out and it goes straight to the scrap yard.

 

they are good cars, and the engines are decent. but on that design the cat is right by the timing cover so it heats the oil and burns it basically into the timing cover/ chain area. now as soon as you remove the timing cover for work, carbon falls directly into the oil pan and will not get out and you motor is screwed.

 

the same engine is availbe in chargers and 300's in rwd. they are simple to work on and no sludge problems like those years.

[aemsee]

I have junked about 7-8 Intrepids in the last 6 months. All of them had the same v-6 and the same problem with the cams/timing belt. I have heard it costs somewhere between $700-$1500 to replace the belts alone. I don't know how true it is though. I do know i can't sell parts off of them, people just refuse to even try to work on them around here. I have got where when i buy one the converter and radiators come out and it goes straight to the scrap yard.

 

they are good cars, and the engines are decent. but on that design the cat is right by the timing cover so it heats the oil and burns it basically into the timing cover/ chain area. now as soon as you remove the timing cover for work, carbon falls directly into the oil pan and will not get out and you motor is screwed.

 

the same engine is availbe in chargers and 300's in rwd. they are simple to work on and no sludge problems like those years.

 

 

You're close jared. The cats in the LH body are below the cyl heads in the engine compartments. These engines have poorly designed oiling networks, especially for the cyl heads. BUT, adding an external oil cooler goes a long way. LH's that had oil coolers installed from the factory didn't have the sludge problems. Just as JR bodies from the same years, with the same engine, with SMALLER engine bays didn't have the sludge problems. They came with oil coolers, and no cats under the heads.