Phoenix of Fury Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I'm getting to the point where I believe I'm needing a new clutch, it's starting to slip on me. I'm at 80k miles on my '86 2.5L 5 speed, which I think is about average mileage for a clutch. I'm wanting to try to replace it with something perhaps a little stronger than stock. This is going to be primarily a rock crawling rig, and I'd like to have something that will provide good grip. I've heard good things and bad things about these for off-roading. There is only one other thread about centerforce clutches on here, and seems there was some mixed opinions. I wouldn't want to go with a dual-friction, just a stage II. Is this even an option for this engine/tranny combo? Also, if I purchase the clutch kit, and new master and slave cylinders, what else would be required to make sure I take care of everything while it's apart? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bacon Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 good time to replace the rear main seal. i don't know what they are like in the 2.5's, but it's over 20 years old at this point, so you might as well do it while you've access to it. then there's also the seals on the trans and tcase to think about too i suppose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 80K is not "normal" for a clutch replacement (unless you really thrashed it). I and others have gotten 150K on the factory unit, with plenty of friction material left to keep going. The problem is the crappy internal slave/throwout bearing gives out, which feels like a burnt up clutch disc. Check the bottom of the bellhousing to see if it's dripping brake fluid...dead giveaway for a blown throwout. You have to pull the tranny to replace, so you might as well put a new clutch in while you have it out. I just went with a stock replacement, considering the condition of the factory one when I pulled it (see above). The RMS on a 2.5 is one-piece, and you have to pull the tranny/clutch/flywheel to replace it. Good idea to swap it while you have the clutch out, even if it isn't leaking. Also, there is a freeze plug in the block that's covered by the bellhousing...check it and replace as well while you have it all apart. Make sure your clutch kit comes with a new pilot bearing, and replace that also. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 My input on the CenterForce is your just paying for a name... As their kits aren't that much different from what you can get from the dealer.. I got a CForce Throw-out Bearing and its in a pretty box with CF written all over it and all, but when I opened it up it was just a plain ol' bearing.. I bought the TB on ebay, so I was thinking I was had. I emailed and called wanting to know if I was ripped off. I finally got to speak to a rep at Midway Industries (owners of Centerforce) and the guy told me that my TB was a CF part. They just pretty much took a factory bearing (Nachi in my case) and sold it under the CF name. So if I was you esp with just a 2.5L just go with a OEM clutch. I know the friction parts of their clutches are a lil different but not worth the extra 150 bucks your going to spend on the CF name. I could understand if you where running a high hp engine, but lets face it, How much Torque/HP are you going to be making with the 2.5?? Just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions, right.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 The whole deal with Centerforce is that they are supposed to have these little couterweights that add to the clamping pressure at high RPM. The key part of that is at high RPM. Off-roading and rock crawling tycally are not high RPM pursuits. There's no point in paying extra $$$ for a clutch that locks up tight as a bank vault at 7,000 RPM if your rig will never see the high side of 3,000 RPM. Get a Luchs. That's the brand the factory uses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 changing the freeze plug while the motor is still in the truck. bad idea, its a PITA and if its not leaking then don't sweat it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Also, if I purchase the clutch kit, and new master and slave cylinders, what else would be required to make sure I take care of everything while it's apart? Be sure you replace the flex line/hose assembly that connects the master to the slave. It is not included with either on the older XJs and MJs. Don't ask me how I know this. 200 mile return to home base with no clutch tends to make the obvious much more obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now