UCA AXLE end bushings

[mjeff87]

Well, I'm here to tell ya they are as much of a #%&*@! to replace as everyone says they are. My neighbor and I attempted to change mine today.....broke a ball-joint press getting the passenger side one out, ended up hammering it the rest of the way. Tried to get the new one in with a homebrew setup using a piece of all-thread, some sockets and washers, and ended up getting it in about 7/8 of the way before the all-thread snapped. Said the hell with the driver side, I'll save that for the weekend.

 

I shoulda replaced them BEFORE I hung the axle under the truck :roll:

 

Jeff

 

edit for thread title :oops:

[1999MJ]

I replaced mine with the polly ones which were real easy. All you had to do was remove the rubber factory from the steel sleeve, clean it out nice and slip the polly one in the factory sleave which was real easy once it was removed from the freezer.

 

I Attempted to replace the factory bushing on one of my old jeeps and will never do that again. I ended up snaping the ear off the housing while beating it with a BFH.

[MF Steve!]

The solution:

 

 

I think it's well worth it for $150. You're getting rid of the cheapo stamped steel passenger side tower, and you're getting two rebuildable joints that you'll never need to press out again.

 

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... px?id=1277

[TNT]

I have done them a few times and find them easy.

 

I heat the bushing shell on the pass side and pop the center out. the sleeve is simple after that.

 

The drivers side I heated the outside edges on both sides of the bushing and popped it out.

 

I drive them back in with a 3/4 drive socket that fits the shell. The passenger side I put a socket in between the mounts and clamp it in.

This keeps the bracket from collapsing.

 

My last set took two hours to replace all of the UCA and LCA bushings including lifting it, supporting it, disassembly, reassembly, so it was back on the ground, torqued and ready to drive.

[CWLONGSHOT]

This is basically how I did mine as well. Once you get the rubber out, using heat. It's really easy to collapse the steel tube and remove the bushing.

 

The first set I ever did, I did the way Jeff described. It can work, but also can be a real bugger!!

 

BTW, This is one advantage for the two piece pass side axle. The pass side bushing housing is NOT STAMPED crap!!! :D

 

CW

[JeepcoMJ]

and put the new ones in the freezer until you're just about to install them. they'll slide right in.

[mjeff87]

the other new bushing went in the freezer last night, and is gonna stay there until it's ready to go in :D

 

I think I'm going to either drill or burn out the rubber first, then collapse the sleeve. The driver side *should* be easier, since there's nothing in the way of it......

 

Jeff

[mjeff87]

The solution:

 

 

I think it's well worth it for $150. You're getting rid of the cheapo stamped steel passenger side tower, and you're getting two rebuildable joints that you'll never need to press out again.

 

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... px?id=1277

 

That doesn't look bad for the price, but I'm running RE adjustables and I need rubber at the axle end. And mine's a disco, so I don't have the el cheapo stamped mount on the passenger side.

 

Jeff

[mjeff87]

Well, got the driverside replaced this morning...it went a little better than the other, but still a PITA. Tried drilling out the bushing, snapped a drill bit off inside it :headpop: Jerry lent me the full set of adapters to use with the BJ press that he had (took the broken press back to HF and exchanged it). Ended up pressing the rubber out of the sleeve, then hammering the metal cup out with a ball peen and a cold chisel. Had a hard time getting the new bushing started straight, until I noticed a small beveled adapter inside Jerry's kit, that worked great getting the press aligned. Finally got it in, and also finished pressing the passenger side one in fully, shortened the UCA's 1/2" to get a couple more degrees caster, and hooked them back up.

 

Stopping for lunch now, then back out to install a set of greasable poly swaybar bushings before dinner. New RC shocks should be here on Monday, and will be installing them with a set of BPE's, and the front end *should* finally be done

 

Jeff

[tjbliley]

Won't be done until you get it aligned. Then it will ride like a Cadi................or as close as a Comanche can come.

[CWLONGSHOT]

GOOD JOB!!!

 

Yea, sorry I forgot to mention it can be difficult to get them started strait.... Also clean the "bore" really well with a wire wheel and lightly grease. That's makes it easier too...sorry for the late advice. :oops: :oops: :oops:

 

OH yea....WHERE IS THE PICS??????????????????????????????? ;) :roll: :eek: :D

 

CW

[mjeff87]

I didn’t take any pics during the process, but here’s the new ones installed, and a shot of the old bushings (what’s left of them, anyhow……). They were definitely a PITA, but were sooo worth it….the front end is a lot firmer feeling now.

 

Jeff

 

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[HOrnbrod]

What's your caster setting at now Jeff? And is your front driveshaft back in? If so, how's the joint operating angle now w. the increased caster?

[mjeff87]

I'm right around 4.5-5 degrees. Driveshaft is back in, and happy too :D

 

The only little problem I'm seeing now is that the back of the TRE on the drag link is contacting the passenger side *lower sway bar link mount* on full right lock. Not sure what to do about that (but it's only at full lock, so it's not a huge problem).

 

Jeff