Wiring Cleanup

[TheNerfsmith]

I've been doing a lot of research into the Renix harness so I can clean it up when I get to it over my winter break in December (Along with all my brittle vacuum lines). Does anyone on here have a thread or information on cleaning up the harness? Such as modernizing the engine Fusebox (I've heard it called a PDC?) like putting in a newer XJ fusebox. As for the interior I would just clean that up as I went along putting in new lights and taking out the power interior that was put in. I do plan on doing the jeepcables big 7 at some point. 

[Eagle_SX4]

If everything is working well I wouldn't change anything about the harness. You may want to delete the c101 connector on the firewall or at least clean it. I would replace the plastic split loom and maybe replace the friction tape. When you have the old split loom off go over the wires and check for any cracks or missing insulation. There are several places that have crimped and soldered splices that should be looked at closely and repaired if damage is found. (they are usually covered in duct tape, yes that was factory)

 

There are a lot of GM Weather-pack connectors in the harness and the plastic terminal ends can be replaced very easily with out any wire cutting. You just need a weather-pack disassembly tool along with some new connectors.

 

I have not come across any fuses in the engine bay.

 

There are 4 relays by the battery that should be tested for function and continuity. The relay connectors should also be cleaned.

[hgeranium]

I just redid my HVAC/cruise vac lines! Here are the diagrams if you need them.

Cruiser's Tip 5 and Tip 6 sound right up your alley for what you want to do (if you haven't already done it.)

[TheNerfsmith]

3 hours ago, hgeranium said:

I just redid my HVAC/cruise vac lines! Here are the diagrams if you need them.

Cruiser's Tip 5 and Tip 6 sound right up your alley for what you want to do (if you haven't already done it.)

This helps a ton. The previous owner plugged some of the lines with Philips screws so it’s overdue for a refresh. 

[ghetdjc320]

I’d suggest doing all of Cruisers wiring mods. Most of the copper wiring itself should still be usable but I’d unwrap the harness, replace those duct taped factory splices, clean up all the connectors and terminals, then rewrap it all with tesa harness tape. 

[hgeranium]

8 hours ago, TheNerfsmith said:

This helps a ton. The previous owner plugged some of the lines with Philips screws so it’s overdue for a refresh. 

Which lines are plugged?. I don’t know if you have to do emissions in Illinois but bypassing EGR is worth it IMO simply for the fact that it deletes about 2-3 vacuum lines that you don’t have to worry about leaking if you don’t need to worry about emissions or smog like in Texas. If so, Boxyjeep sells a full EGR delete plate if you want to go all the way and clear up some engine space. 
 

The previous owner swapped my airbox to an HO airbox which deletes the vacuum lines going to it. So that’s always a possibility if you want to remove more lines from the equation. I only have three actual vacuum lines to worry about: MAP to TB (do cruiser’s tip 31!!! This is very important) PCV to intake, and fuel pressure regulator to intake. Everything else is capped or routed to itself in regards to the vacuum fitting that has 3 ports. Just my $0.02; it feels really nice to have such a simple vacuum system. 
 

as for the HVAC side, check out my post if you need more clarification like I did. YMMV if you don’t have cruise but it should be even simpler if so. Cruise control side goes to the servo, HVAC side goes to the black HVAC line in the firewall, then the other firewall line hooks up to the heater control valve. I found out that my heater control valve hasn’t had vacuum the entire time that I’ve owned it which caused a potpourri of HVAC related problems til now.  

 

[TheNerfsmith]

16 minutes ago, hgeranium said:

Which lines are plugged?. I don’t know if you have to do emissions in Illinois but bypassing EGR is worth it IMO simply for the fact that it deletes about 2-3 vacuum lines that you don’t have to worry about leaking if you don’t need to worry about emissions or smog like in Texas. If so, Boxyjeep sells a full EGR delete plate if you want to go all the way and clear up some engine space. 
 

The previous owner swapped my airbox to an HO airbox which deletes the vacuum lines going to it. So that’s always a possibility if you want to remove more lines from the equation. I only have three actual vacuum lines to worry about: MAP to TB (do cruiser’s tip 31!!! This is very important) PCV to intake, and fuel pressure regulator to intake. Everything else is capped or routed to itself in regards to the vacuum fitting that has 3 ports. Just my $0.02; it feels really nice to have such a simple vacuum system. 
 

as for the HVAC side, check out my post if you need more clarification like I did. YMMV if you don’t have cruise but it should be even simpler if so. Cruise control side goes to the servo, HVAC side goes to the black HVAC line in the firewall, then the other firewall line hooks up to the heater control valve. I found out that my heater control valve hasn’t had vacuum the entire time that I’ve owned it which caused a potpourri of HVAC related problems til now.  

 

I still have the CAD that I’m looking to delete. As for the line I’m not exactly sure which one it is but it’s in this photo.

[hgeranium]

Just now, TheNerfsmith said:

I still have the CAD that I’m looking to delete. As for the line I’m not exactly sure which one it is but it’s in this photo.

What’s that on the back of the valve cover? That’s supposed to be a PCV grommet and line that goes to the intake manifold. It almost looks like the CCV hose that’s on the front of the VC. 
 

I can’t really make anything out. There is a line going from the map sensor to the throttlebody, right? I can’t even see that in the picture but you would definitely know if you didn’t have it lol. 
 

Do you have any audible vacuum leaks? Or are you just trying to clean it up

[TheNerfsmith]

4 minutes ago, hgeranium said:

What’s that on the back of the valve cover? That’s supposed to be a PCV grommet and line that goes to the intake manifold. It almost looks like the CCV hose that’s on the front of the VC. 
 

I can’t really make anything out. There is a line going from the map sensor to the throttlebody, right? I can’t even see that in the picture but you would definitely know if you didn’t have it lol. 
 

Do you have any audible vacuum leaks? Or are you just trying to clean it up

I actually have no idea why that line on the back of the VC is like that. One of the 3 previous owners put on a cold air intake so maybe that why it’s like that but I have no clue since the MJ runs fine. Albeit with a drop in RPM when the brake is pressed, but I documented why that could be in my build thread.

[hgeranium]

Just now, TheNerfsmith said:

I actually have no idea why that line on the back of the VC is like that. One of the 3 previous owners put on a cold air intake so maybe that why it’s like that but I have no clue since the MJ runs fine. Albeit with a drop in RPM when the brake is pressed, but I documented why that could be in my build thread.

Do you have a picture of the entire engine bay?

[hgeranium]

Just now, TheNerfsmith said:

One of the 3 previous owners put on a cold air intake so maybe that why it’s like that but I have no clue since the MJ runs fine.

Where does that hose go to? I would imagine that a CAI would not change the routing of your PCV because it’s going into the intake manifold itself. The grommet and hose are very cheap, like $14 if you end up wanting to go back to stock. 

[TheNerfsmith]

Just now, hgeranium said:

Do you have a picture of the entire engine bay?

 

Hopefully this helps. I probably can get a better one if need be.

[hgeranium]

Just now, TheNerfsmith said:

 

Hopefully this helps. I probably can get a better one if need be.

Woah what the heck. One of your PO switched the PCV and the CCV locations on the VC. I guess if it works. And since you have a CAI I’d be willing to bet you can get rid of that unsightly vacuum tree with a bit of rerouting or modification. I’m assuming your CCV hose just gets routed directly to the ground? Or into a catch can? That’s how I have mine since it kept putting oil in the air filter

[hgeranium]

4 minutes ago, TheNerfsmith said:

 

Hopefully this helps. I probably can get a better one if need be.

I also see your vacuum ball is on the intake side of the motor. Is it hooked up to the HVAC at all? It’s on the other side of the engine

[TheNerfsmith]

10 minutes ago, hgeranium said:

I also see your vacuum ball is on the intake side of the motor. Is it hooked up to the HVAC at all? It’s on the other side of the engine

What I do know is that my A/C still works and blows cold so I assume it is connected? Maybe not?, I have no clue. 

[hgeranium]

Just now, TheNerfsmith said:

What I do know is that my A/C still works and blows cold so I assume it is connected? Maybe not?, I have no clue. 

Look to the right and down from the coolant bottle. There should be a black rubber oblong piece with 2 vertically aligned vac lines. One line goes to the vacuum canister ball and the other goes to the heater control valve. A bad vacuum line will make the air always come out at defrost. The vac leak at my heater control valve made my air blow hotter and not nearly as hard as it does now, so it’s worth a look just in case.