AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 Just backed into the normal parking spot, moved the shifter all the way up, indicator on Park, full to the left, but when I let off the brake the truck went backwards, so the transmission was in reverse with the indicator in Park. It gets more confusing now. Indicator on Park - Transmission appears to actually be In Reverse - I CAN turn the key. Switch to ON works, Starter will not engage. To get started I have to put in the key, move the KEY to the ON position with the indicator still in the Park position, then once the key is in the ON position, move the indicator to "R" then turn the KEY further to the start position and the starter will engage. So when the indicator is at "R" the transmission is in Neutral which is allowing me to engage the starter. Indicator on R - Transmission in Neutral Indicator at N - Transmission in Drive Once started as described I can drive using "N" as Drive and Park as Reverse. Doesn't seem too safe though since I don't really know what to expect. To shut down I need to put the shift indicator in Park (transmission in Reverse) which will allow me to turn the ignition to the off position and remove the key. I'd like to assume only one thing "broke" rather than many things failing simultaneously, so, what might that one broke thing be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 I’d start by checking the shift linkage and see if it’s out of adjustment or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 1 hour ago, 89 MJ said: I’d start by checking the shift linkage and see if it’s out of adjustment or something. I looked at that section of my Haynes manual. The information there is written quite well for an experienced mechanic, one that already knows how to do it, to follow it. But not enough detail for my ASTM (Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic) degree. I'll continue my search for a youtube video that shows how to tell what a proper adjustment looks like and how to achieve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 I can’t remember, is your truck an auto on the floor or an auto on the column? Also, is it a shift cable or rods for the linkage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Mine is on the column. I think this is the linkage in question, correct? I don't see anything that would appear to be damaged. Weird that it just all of a sudden went out of adjustment if that is the problem, but I guess today was as good as any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 Yes, that is the linkage I’m thinking about. I’m wondering if that metal bracket that holds the shifter cable somehow got bent too far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Hmm, well that would tweak the adjustment. I didn't hit anything or run over anything recently that would have been able to bend metal though. The metal doesn't look deformed in person although I can see that the picture angle could be interpreted as if it was. I'm hoping there is some way to adjust the length. Later today after the storms move out I'm going to see if I can get it disconnected and move the transmission switch through all the gears to try and determine there isn't a problem in there, and then maybe I can find out if the cable is adjustable and how. About 2 hours of YouTube hunting and found no examples that look like the cable I have, and I hate to start prying things that I don't know how they come apart, too many odds against me that something will break, but, it's that or go to the transmission shop for an adjustment there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 The adjuster is on the top side of the cable bracket at the transmission end. The collar comes off with a couple of locking tabs and you can adjust the length of the cable to match the indexing on the PRNDL. Your issue is that the cable is now too long for some reason, that's why it's not going the full distance into Park. It may have slipped inside the adjustment collar due to oil/ debris. Since the locking collar material is a HDPE-type plastic, once the locking ridges distort a little and it slips, it may do it again after adjustment. Here's one writeup I saw out there with a quick Google search. If you get it adjusted and it does it again soon after, you'll need to replace the cable. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/transmission-shifter-cable-adjustment.1439633/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Just trying to confirm I understand what you are saying.. Kinda hope I am wrong as I have interpreted where the adjustment is, since if it is where I have it marked in the pic, can't see it to adjust it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 The adjustment point is right where your upper right arrow is. Leave the cable attached to the shift lever on the side of the trans while you do the adjustment. The locking tab on the adjustment collar has a U shape. It has a wide curved spot on one side and the tips of the 'U' shape just peek out the opposite side. Gently pry this side out, and the 'legs' on the opposite side will follow but remain partially inserted. You don't want to remove the locking tab, just back it out to where the grooves that hold things in place are disengaged. Then you can adjust the length of the cable. You'll want to pull the cable sheaths on either side of the bracket together with the shift lever in park when you do. Get it as tight as it will go by hand against the spring pressure and lock it down by pushing the locking tab back flush into the collar. Opposite side. Interestingly, one tip of the 'U' shape in this pic is slightly damaged (left one in pic): You may want to spritz it with brake cleaner first to get any grit/ oil/ fluids out so it will move more easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Thanks @Gojira94, I appreciate the details and time. I think you are saying once I disengage the locking "U" piece I push from the collar in the direction of the red arrow until is is snug, or more snug than it is with the shifter in Park, then snap the "U" shaped lock piece back in. That's what I'll attempt once it dries out a little more outside from this morning rain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 (edited) Round 1 was a failure. I was not able to get the U shaped locking thing loose without removing the bolts from the cable bracket and disconnecting the at the transfer case lever so I could get to the locking clip. While I had the cable disconnected I did manually move the shift lever at the transfer case into the Park position, and at the point the truck did start. So if I can get the cable correct it seems like that would fix things. With the cable disconnected and the bracket loose I could get to the lock and pull it out (well pry it out). I pulled it out about 1/2 inch then reassembled everything, connecting at the collar with the lever at the far location (Park), then pushed the lock back in, but the end result was that nothing changed. How far out do I need to pull the lock piece, it 1/2 inch enough? What is too much? If I accidentally pull it out all the way, does the assembly fall apart, making the job more difficult? I can repeat what I did with the lock out farther, I just don't want to get to a point that I have to hire a tow truck to take it in for repair if I pull the lock out too far and things blow up on me! Edited April 23 by AnotherOldJeepGuy content Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 The plastic pieces on either side of the metal bracket need to push together a bit. Once you have the 'collar' unlocked by backing out the U-lock about halfway, maybe a hair more, you should be able to get things to move toward each other. It will be a bit snug, but should move. Then use your thumb to snap the U-lock back into place. Notice the ridges you can see on the spring side? Those are what engages the U-lock 'legs' to hold things in place when it's snapped closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Looks like I will head out to pull it apart again and pull the clip out farther, and see if it appears to be adjustable before remounting the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 Round 2 was a success! Starts with shifter in either Park or Neutral. And to revisit the thread title, Park=Park, Neutral=Neutral, etc once more! The difference from Round 1 to Round 2 was I pulled the lock out farther, and made sure I could move the cable part on the transmission side in and out of the other side before I put things back together. As always the expertise here is invaluable! Thanks again @Gojira94! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 w00t! Well done, sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Monday at 09:41 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 09:41 PM Well shoot! It's out again! I only got 3 months from the last fix. Luckily I was close to home and it was stuck in drive, so I was able to get back to the house. I will get under there again in the morning when it's not so hot and see if I can get it working again by readjusting. But I am supposing at this point I probably need a new assembly. I feel pretty comfortable with the area of parts I messed with before, but, I'm not feeling nearly as confident replacing the entire thing. So odds are if I can get it functional by adjustment I'll take it to the shop and let them do it. Digging around under the dash is just not something my old bones supports well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 14 hours ago Author Share Posted 14 hours ago I can manually move the transmission shifter arm at the transfer case to where park is, then at that point I can move the column shifter from Park to Reverse to Neutral (so the cable can "pull"), but I can't go the other way. That is, if I move the shifter from Neutral to Reverse to Park the shifter arm is not moved (so the cable can not "push"). So I guess something is slipping, and the only place I know of that is designed to slip id where the length adjustment is done. Guess 2 would then be that oil/grease has gotten in there. If that is the case, the question is can it be cleaned back to fully functional, or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 13 hours ago Author Share Posted 13 hours ago I looked under the dash and can see that the cable connection is in plain sight. So I watched the video below and have talked myself into trying to do this after all. But I will try cleaning the transmission end first just because I am curious to see if that works. The guy in the video does suggesting making the length adjustment in the lowest gear rather than park. I would have though adjusting in park was the best. What do you folks do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted 11 hours ago Share Posted 11 hours ago Setting it with it in low gear is fine too. That would be the cable's max extent of movement in one direction relative to the shifter detents. Go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago I got the old one out. Took about a hour just to get the snap in clips under the dash loose cause I could not find any position that would let me use both hands! Eventually I used a zip tie to depress the clips was able to work it out of there. But putting the zip tie on one handed was not easy! In the old days I would have just had my feet on the ceiling and my head on the floor to get to this, but if I did that today my Jeep would just become my coffin and call it a day. Should go in much easier since I should not need 2 hands for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago Napa has two, anyone know if the more expensive one is really any better? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_CA1177 ($111.99) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6202428 ($78.99) I don't see any at Rock Auto. O'Reilly has the one that Napa sells for $111.99, but for $60.99, so I guess I can just get the "better" one from above for less then the "less better" one if I just buy it here. AutoZone also has the $111.99 one, for $61.49 here I'm also checking with the dealer to see if OEM is still available and the cost. Generally parts are not in their system for them to even look them up for 1990, but I sent the email anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira94 Posted 9 hours ago Share Posted 9 hours ago Pioneer CA1177 available through Autozone online for $62 looks like a decent deal with $4.99 shipping. It's $81 on Amazon... I checked CA1177, that's the one you want. There is a CA1176, but it's longer and for a floor shift automatic (Cherokee). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 3 hours ago Author Share Posted 3 hours ago CA1177 it is then! I do notice now that the cable is out, the column shifter does freely move to include all gear locations based on the pointer, so I am hoping that means that once the new cable is attached, all will be working as normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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