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Park = Reverse, Rev=Neutral, etc., kinda


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Just backed into the normal parking spot, moved the shifter all the way up, indicator on Park, full to the left, but when I let off the brake the truck went backwards, so the transmission was in reverse with the indicator in Park.  It gets more confusing now.

 

Indicator on Park

  - Transmission appears to actually be In Reverse

  - I CAN turn the key.  Switch to ON works, Starter will not engage.

To get started I have to put in the key, move the KEY to the ON position with the indicator still in the Park position, then once the key is in the ON position, move the indicator to "R" then turn the KEY further to the start position and the starter will engage.  So when the indicator is at "R" the transmission is in Neutral which is allowing me to engage the starter.

 

Indicator on R

 - Transmission in Neutral

 

Indicator at N

 - Transmission in Drive

 

Once started as described I can drive using "N" as Drive and Park as Reverse.  Doesn't seem too safe though since I don't really know what to expect.

 

To shut down I need to put the shift indicator in Park (transmission in Reverse) which will allow me to turn the ignition to the off position and remove the key.

 

I'd like to assume only one thing "broke" rather than many things failing simultaneously, so, what might that one broke thing be?

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, 89 MJ said:

I’d start by checking the shift linkage and see if it’s out of adjustment or something. 

I looked at that section of my Haynes manual.  The information there is written quite well for an experienced mechanic, one that already knows how to do it, to follow it.  But not enough detail for my ASTM (Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic) degree:(.

 

I'll continue my search for a youtube video that shows how to tell what a proper adjustment looks like and how to achieve it.

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Hmm, well that would tweak the adjustment.  I didn't hit anything or run over anything recently that would have been able to bend metal though.  The metal doesn't look deformed in person although I can see that the picture angle could be interpreted as if it was.  I'm hoping there is some way to adjust the length.  Later today after the storms move out I'm going to see if I can get it disconnected and move the transmission switch through all the gears to try and determine there isn't a problem in there, and then maybe I can find out if the cable is adjustable and how.  About 2 hours of YouTube hunting and found no examples that look like the cable I have, and I hate to start prying things that I don't know how they come apart, too many odds against me that something will break, but, it's that or go to the transmission shop for an adjustment there.

image.png.d7de5d996ffe38106cc90b84f096db04.png

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The adjuster is on the top side of the cable bracket at the transmission end. The collar comes off with a couple of locking tabs and you can adjust the length of the cable to match the indexing on the PRNDL. Your issue is that the cable is now too long for some reason, that's why it's not going the full distance into Park. It may have slipped inside the adjustment collar due to oil/ debris. Since the locking collar material is a HDPE-type plastic, once the locking ridges distort a little and it slips, it may do it again after adjustment. Here's one writeup I saw out there with a quick Google search. If you get it adjusted and it does it again soon after, you'll need to replace the cable.

 

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/transmission-shifter-cable-adjustment.1439633/

 

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The adjustment point is right where your upper right arrow is. Leave the cable attached to the shift lever on the side of the trans while you do the adjustment.

 

The locking tab on the adjustment collar has a U shape. It has a wide curved spot on one side and the tips of the 'U' shape just peek out the opposite side. Gently pry this side out, and the 'legs' on the opposite side will follow but remain partially inserted. You don't want to remove the locking tab, just back it out to where the grooves that hold things in place are disengaged. Then you can adjust the length of the cable. You'll want to pull the cable sheaths on either side of the bracket together with the shift lever in park when you do. Get it as tight as it will go by hand against the spring pressure and lock it down by pushing the locking tab back flush into the collar.

 

CA-1177_1.jpg.d091b9fd8c58b122f7fbbbc369586007.jpg

 

Opposite side. Interestingly, one tip of the 'U' shape in this pic is slightly damaged (left one in pic):

 

Y-794_1.jpg.a2354e67d7e7205ee391aa1bc6ebb6bc.jpg

 

You may want to spritz it with brake cleaner first to get any grit/ oil/ fluids out so it will move more easily.

 

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Thanks @Gojira94, I appreciate the details and time.  I think you are saying once I disengage the locking "U" piece I push from the collar in the direction of the red arrow until is is snug, or more snug than it is with the shifter in Park, then snap the "U" shaped lock piece back in.  That's what I'll attempt once it dries out a little more outside from this morning rain.

 

image.png.8683a32c7278cfc8af53151105ed78ed.png

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Round 1 was a failure:brickwall:.  I was not able to get the U shaped locking thing loose without removing the bolts from the cable bracket and disconnecting the at the transfer case lever so I could get to the locking clip. 

 

While I had the cable disconnected I did manually move the shift lever at the transfer case into the Park position, and at the point the truck did start.  So if I can get the cable correct it seems like that would fix things. 

 

With the cable disconnected and the bracket loose I could get to the lock and pull it out (well pry it out).  I pulled it out about 1/2 inch then reassembled everything, connecting at the collar with the lever at the far location (Park), then pushed the lock back in, but the end result was that nothing changed. 

 

How far out do I need to pull the lock piece, it 1/2 inch enough?  What is too much?  If I accidentally pull it out all the way, does the assembly fall apart, making the job more difficult?  I can repeat what I did with the lock out farther, I just don't want to get to a point that I have to hire a tow truck to take it in for repair if I pull the lock out too far and things blow up on me!

Edited by AnotherOldJeepGuy
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The plastic pieces on either side of the metal bracket need to push together a bit. Once you have the 'collar' unlocked by backing out the U-lock about halfway, maybe a hair more, you should be able to get things to move toward each other. It will be a bit snug, but should move. Then use your thumb to snap the U-lock back into place. Notice the ridges you can see on the spring side? Those are what engages the U-lock 'legs' to hold things in place when it's snapped closed.

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Round 2 was a success!  Starts with shifter in either Park or Neutral.  And to revisit the thread title, Park=Park, Neutral=Neutral, etc once more!

 

The difference from Round 1 to Round 2 was I pulled the lock out farther, and made sure I could move the cable part on the transmission side in and out of the other side before I put things back together.  As always the expertise here is invaluable!  Thanks again @Gojira94!

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