camshaft swapping

[tarmac2dirt]

i'm starting a new engine build 4.0 starting with gathering the parts needed. Seem like the 96 cams are like getting fresh dino dung. Can the 97 and later cam be used in a 1994 block. I know it has a retainer plate the can be eliminated by using the early cam bolt and button up front. Is there any other problems that stops me from using a newer type of cam. Oh yes i know comp cams shows early cams available but their quality is crap so no comp stuff for me. thanks Paul

[TurboedMJ]

Why not get a custom cam or order one from newcomer racing? 

[ghetdjc320]

Not sure why you aren’t finding the pre 97 cams. Here is an older list but still a good one that shows many of the different cam specs and part numbers for the 4.0.

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm

 

I believe the cam retaining design didn’t change until 99+. 
As with any cam swap with flat tappets, you’ll need to use plenty of zinc in the oil to prevent cam wear along with assembly lube to prevent wiping the lobes on startup. Comp is not inherently better or worse than any of the others. People’s experiences with them often are a result of not following proper break-in procedures. Most all the aftermarket manufacturers will have narrower cam lobes than original but that really isn’t a problem. Mopar performance cams have full width lobes. Keep the seat and open pressure mild for these cams and they will live a good long life. And I can’t emphasize enough the need to keep zinc in the oil on these engines with fresh cams. My go to has been VR1 racing oil or Rotella diesel oil for the 4.0. I have run 10’s of thousands of miles on comp cams in the 4.0 series of engines with zero issues. Only company I’ve had bad experiences with and poor quality is 505 performance. Hopefully this helps 

[75sv1]

      I also think that it is 99+ blocks that have the cam thrust plate. I did put in an older style Comp Cam in a 2000 Block. They do make a spring for the tension. Also, Bishop Buel also make a Delrin 'spacer'. Its shaped like a bullet.  Also, there are other options for 99+ Cams. Cleggs has a Stage 1 and is working on a Stage 1.5 or 2.  I had Schnieders grind me one from a used core. 

      Depends on what lift your cam choice has. From what I could find, it seems like stock then jump to 110 lbs at closed. I think 110 lbs is a bit much. I'd look at Melling stock springs for a 95 HO. 81-89 lbs at closed.

      As for 'break in' oil. I used Lucas 30 SAE. It has 1600 ppm Zinc. I'd use it for the first 2000 miles. I am not sure about using a diesel oil at that point. And I'd wait till 5,000 to 10,000 till I use a synthetic. At 10,000 miles I'll be using Rotella T6 Synthetic. Probably the 5W-45. They do make a T6 in 10W-30 now. I have used the 10W-30 T4 in 4.0ls and my MB 240D. 

     Another aspect is to watch what lifters you use. I'd try and find some Johnson lifters, or at least USA made ones. I've had to scour E-Bay for Johnson Lifters. If you look at the end that contacts the cam lobe, if it looks splotish then its not good. Some SBI made in Mexico looks splotish. And yes I do measure similar type parts. Some of the cam makers sell a premium lifters. I'd at least get them. 

     I'd also, prime the engine oil. I ground the helix gear off of an old distributor. Then used a drill. Had to rotate the engine to get all the lifters to pump up. 

[75sv1]

Just viewed a Post from Russ Potengier on the Stroker board. He replied to a question I had on spring pressures on the springs he supplies. 100 Lbs at closing. Should be good for .500 lift. 

[tarmac2dirt]

Ok guys, a few answers about cams and using certain spring pressures, but your not answering my question.  can a thrust plate type cam be used in a early type block. The cam companies do not have the early blank cores to even grind a cam. I did find one company that has some blanks for 1999 and newer ready to make me a custom cam but will it WORK thats what i want to know. The cam cores for early blocks seem to be hard to come by for cam grinders. Any hope to get the correct answer here. Thanks

[75sv1]

I'm going to lean towards No. I would think you could make a bullet spacer to work to keep the cam in postion.

Did you try Crower?

Hydraulic Flat Tappet - 199, 232, 234 & 258 - AMC - Camshafts (crower.com)