1996 Cherokee no start

[railroad sam]

Hello Jeep Folks,

Reaching out for help here. Besides my 87 Comanche, I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee that will not start now. For a while it would start when turning key to start. Then doing same thing no start. So, with vehicle in park and emergency brake on, I would crawl underneath with screwdriver and start it. I noticed like when you turn key from run to start, that there is no spring action to return run after starting. I felt something give way inside. Anyway I replaced the ignition switch putting my key tumbler in new switch. Still no start. So everytime I go somewhere I have to crawl under and start it.

My 87 Comanche key turns and moves actuator rod down to ignition switch mounted on steering column. The Cherokee doesn't have this type of switch or I'm not seeing it.

Thanks,

Railroad Sam

[jdog]

Have you tried starting it in neutral? Could be a bad NSS or a bad starter relay

[olddude]

25 minutes ago, jdog said:

Have you tried starting it in neutral? Could be a bad NSS or a bad starter relay

[railroad sam]

I've tried starting in neutral. I think it's deep in the steering column. Some part that connects to the ignition switch and key. 

Thank you. 

[olddude]

The actual switch is on top of the column behind the dash. I found it easier for a old man like me to remove the instrument panel to replace the switch. All you have is a rod that connects the key to the actual switch. I know it is a lot of trouble to remove the instrument panel but it makes it so much easier to replace the switch and adjust it to operate correctly.

[railroad sam]

I've tried starting in neutral. I think it's deep in the steering column. Some part that connects to the ignition switch and key. 

Thank you. 

[railroad sam]

So is there an actual switch like the one in the picture on top of the column? If so that's good to know. Thanks Olddude.

[jdog]

This is the ignition switch for your 96, it is possible it is the starter relay as well. I'm not near a computer that I could look it up, but this is googlefu for wiring and It shows a relay in the fuse box in the engine bay.

[railroad sam]

So is there an actual switch like the one in the picture on top of the column? If so that's good to know. Thanks Olddude.

[jdog]

There is a switch but it is behind the ignition tumbler and not on top of the column.

[gogmorgo]

Your ‘96 has a Chrysler column, not the old GM Saginaw column like the MJ had. Your only ignition switch is the one in the steering column that you already changed. You don’t have an extra one deep in the column.

Assuming your XJ is an automatic, just for a hoot let’s test the neutral safety switch. Its a pretty common problem. They get gummed up full of stuff and quit working. It starts out intermittent and gets more frequent. If your reverse lights also don’t work you should definitely look into this.

The connector is near the transmission dipstick tube, it’s an eight-pin connector but there’s only six pins in use. Unplug it. You’re looking at the middle two pins in the row opposite the latch, should be black wires but I never trust wire colours. (Conveniently one of the middle pins on the latch side of the connector is vacant so you shouldn’t have trouble figuring out which two pins). B and C in the image below:

D and F should be vacant. 

 

If you’ve got a multimeter you can probe the two pins on the switch side, you should have continuity between B and C in park and neutral. If you move on to the vehicle side, of the two corresponding pins, one should have some continuity to ground (but not perfect through the coil of the relay) and the other should get 12V when you turn the key to start (you may need a helper to turn the key for you). This will also confirm if your new ignition switch is working for you.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter but you do have a test light, you can check for power at those positions on the vehicle side of the connector when you turn the key. I don’t remember if B or C is the one that gets power from the switch, so check both of them. You can also hook the test light up to the positive battery terminal and probe the other or the two pins to check the rest of the circuit, but be aware the test light might be enough to trigger the starter while you’re doing it. 
If you don’t have a multimeter or a test light, or you want to confirm the NSS is at fault, you can just jump those two pins on the vehicle side connector, leave it unplugged, double check you’re in park, then go and turn the key. Assuming all is well other than the NSS, it should start. To drive, once it’s started, remove the jumper between B and C and plug the connector back in. Or just keep jumping the solenoid.

There’s a guide with an illustration (I stole part of it) for jumping the NSS at the bottom of this page: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

Plus a handy guide for cleaning the switch out if you’d prefer not to pay for another one. 
 

[olddude]

I stand corrected, sorry, I assumed it was the same as the Comanche. The NSS is probably a very good place to look.

[railroad sam]

Here was the culprit. Key cylinder had broken. Thanks for all the help. I do appreciate it.

Railroad Sam