How hard do you crank it?

[WranglerMangler]

3 hours ago, Gojira94 said:

You might consider using the plate for a crank hub puller as your leverage point instead of the crank bolt. 3 bolts to share the load and leave the crank bolt out of the equation. And a replacement crank bolt will need to be 10.9 strength. Almost nobody has ARP crank bolts as a stock item but you can get one shipped pretty quick. Install it once all is freed up. Pull the old one out now if you can, or make sure it's broke loose and leave it in, backed out about 1/4 turn. That way if you cause any more damage to the head it'll come out by hand.

I can still get the bolt loose, so I’ll take that advice for sure. I’ll be sure it’s loose before trying to get the bottom end to move again. 
And was most definitely going to do an ARP replacement. Thank you. 

[WranglerMangler]

Got the pan off today, this is what I found. 

 

Not exactly sure what all the gray crap is. Unfortunately it is magnetic.

Everything looks good. No rust anywhere. 

 

 

Tight timing chain is nice and tight. Seems new. Cam looks good 

 

 

ARP main cap bolts. 

Looking up into the cylinders, all of them look this way. 

 

Appears that I’ll be pulling the caps off here shortly. Hope the crank isn’t smoked. Assuming that’s bearing material I’m finding. 

[pizzaman09]

Looks like you are getting closer to the smoking gun.  Something isn't going to look good when you get that apart.

[WranglerMangler]

1 hour ago, pizzaman09 said:

Looks like you are getting closer to the smoking gun.  Something isn't going to look good when you get that apart.

Think I found something… unfortunately lol. 

[WranglerMangler]

Finally!! Got the rotating assembly to move. Removed all of the rod caps, every piston but #6 moved with a small bump on the stud with a rubber dead blow hammer. #6 actually took a good whack with the dead blow to get to move. 
After all rod caps were removed, the rotating assembly was still stuck. I started at the front loosening the main bearing caps, after the second one was loosened, it moved. 
Most of the grooves feel like ridges on the outer diameter of a dime or quarter to the fingernail. Bummer to find, but about what I was expecting this far into it. Thank you for the input everyone!! 

 

[pizzaman09]

I had my twin brother review the photos, he is a design engineer for Cummins.  He thinks based on the photos that what you are looking at is corrosion because there is no indication of overheating of the bearing shells.  

The other possibility is the bearing clearances were too tight but corrosion seems more likely given the situation that it sat for 5 years.

[WranglerMangler]

2 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

I had my twin brother review the photos, he is a design engineer for Cummins.  He thinks based on the photos that what you are looking at is corrosion because there is no indication of overheating of the bearing shells.  

The other possibility is the bearing clearances were too tight but corrosion seems more likely given the situation that it sat for 5 years.

Wow. Thank you. That’s some high caliber eyes on my problem.  (Another reason this site is so awesome) With the grooves in the crank though, I’m leaning towards too tight of bearings, then 5 years of corrosion.  The grooves are really deep. And there is corrosion present as well. Photo doesn’t do justice. Guess it really doesn’t matter at this point! 
Thank you Pizzaman09! 

[watchamakalit]

Glad you found the problem. Now time to get building....