31s with only 2" of lift?

[500-comanche]

OK, I know, I know, the same old questions about the same old topics. I did a search, but had a difficult time narrowing down what I was trying to find out. So here is the question- Can anyone tell me the following:

 

Will 31s fit under an MJ without rubbing with a 2" lift and no trimming?

 

What length of bumpstops would I need? Please include current stock length to what I would need to keep from rubbing. (seems like if it's a 2" lift, 1" oughta do it?)

 

What length of shocks would be best to provide a good ride while helping to reduce rubbing? (again, seems obvious that adding 2" longer shocks would take care of it) At what valving?

 

If I am using stock 15X7 rims, will I need BS or spacers and if so, how much?

 

Thanks, for the help. It's late and I am tired so I tried to be as specific as I can. I really want to get going on this ASAP and would love to stay with a 2" BB instead of jumping to the extra cost of a decent 3" (no AALs for me!) My beloved MJ is my DD and hunting, camping, light 4X4 truck, not a rock crawler, so a smaller lift is fine with me. :D

[feerocknok]

Will 31s fit under an MJ without rubbing with a 2" lift and no trimming?

 

What length of bumpstops would I need? Please include current stock length to what I would need to keep from rubbing. (seems like if it's a 2" lift, 1" oughta do it?)

 

What length of shocks would be best to provide a good ride while helping to reduce rubbing? (again, seems obvious that adding 2" longer shocks would take care of it) At what valving?

 

If I am using stock 15X7 rims, will I need BS or spacers and if so, how much?

 

Leave the stock wheela on, trim the front and rear of your flares, go with Skyjacker shocks, don't jump it and use your fenders for bumpstops. That's what I'd do.

[BLHTAZ]

2" is going to be tough. I have a 3.5" RE lift with 31's and it does not rub, but it comes close. I don't believe in lifting a Jeep and then putting bump stops in it...what's the sense in lifting it :nuts: ?? You will definitely need longer shocks, but shock have nothing to do with lifting or helping tires to avoid rubbing and I recommend the ProComp ES9000 shocks for good ride ond off road performance combined. If you stay with stock type wheels, you are going to have an issue with rubbing on the control arms, but if you go with aftermarket wheels with more BS it will likely cause them to rub in the fenders. I say just go 3" or 3.5" and make it easy and safe :cheers: .

[Duner]

my truck came to me with 31" liberators (walmart) they would rub a little when turning sharp but the rear tires rubbed the inside fenders of the bed any time the suspension articulated entering or exiting driveways. I suggest spacers for the rear if your going to run stock jeep wheels. you might want to grab a later set of wheels from a jeep in 16" or 17" diameter as I think the metric tires 265/70/16 will give you a more narrow 31" tire and help with the rubbing issue.

 

Or you can just end up like the rest of us who don't know when to stop with your comanche 6 to 8 inches above stock telling ourselves everytime that we get in that the heavy steel bumpers were going to buy will make the springs sag a bit and someday I will custom build some rock sliders with a step.

[pingpong]

This is kinda a trick question... You can fit 31's with no lift.. just remember not all tires are the size they say they are. As for rubbing... anything bigger then stock is going to rub at full stuff and hard turning unless you adjust your steering stops. I have fit 33's on 2" but had almost no up travel.. then again I fit a set of 31's on a XJ with no lift/ trimming tires were more like a tall 30"

[Eagle]

31x10.50s will fit with no lift ... IF you use factory rims. The backspace on OEM rims is 5-1/4", which allows 31s to tuck inside the front flares when the suspension is compressed. There are NO aftermarket rims with that much backspacing, so any aftermarket rim will place the tires farther outboard. Which means they will hit the flares in the front when the suspension compresses.

 

31x10.50s on stock rims also sit very close to the rear leaf springs and inner fender walls. They clear, but not by much.

 

Note that for both situations, lift is NOT going to make a difference. The only way to make bigger tires on aftermarket rims clear in the front is either trim heavily, or radically extend the bump stops (which doesn't do much to improve your articulation. A bit less backspacing in the rear gets the tires away from the springs and inner fender walls, but again you have to worry about the flares, and again a lift doesn't solve anything unless you also extend the bump stops to reduce travel.

 

Personally, I prefer 30x9.50s on factory rims, but I have run 31s with no lift.

[92comanche4x4]

I have 31/10.5/15 on my stock comanche i got alot of rub but its only when i turn sharp as it will go here's a pic of it with the 31 bfg all terain i wouldrecomend a 3in lift tho like I'm doin next weekend

 

[BLHTAZ]

I have found over the years that I have been in this business that most people have no clue what "fit" means. If a tire "fits" a vehicle, it means that it will not rub at any point during full articulation and steering lock to lock. If you can not articulate the suspension to it's max or turn the steering wheel to full lock either way without rubbing...then the tires do not "fit". Too many people think that if they can bolt the wheel on the truck and move it that they have a "fit", but do not realize that this is actually potentially dangerous.

 

Just an FYI to hopefully help make a good, safe decision... :cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

I have found over the years that I have been in this business that most people have no clue what "fit" means. If a tire "fits" a vehicle, it means that it will not rub at any point during full articulation and steering lock to lock. If you can not articulate the suspension to it's max or turn the steering wheel to full lock either way without rubbing...then the tires do not "fit". Too many people think that if they can bolt the wheel on the truck and move it that they have a "fit", but do not realize that this is actually potentially dangerous.

 

Just an FYI to hopefully help make a good, safe decision... :cheers:

 

X2 - well said. The biggest problem of course is rubbing on the LCAs at full lock. Using the currved WJ lower control arms fixes this problem and is easy to do. Best of all is that they are exactly the same length as the originals, so your alignment specs will not be affected. The larger bushings also provide better lateral stabilization.

[UNL1MTD]

I run 31s on my stockish MJ. My big advantage is using 15x8s instead of 15x7s, which help out with backspacing. It still rubs the lcas under very abnormal lock situations when turning.

 

As to why to BumpStop - Lifting a rig and adding bumpstops is perfectly normal for a properly setup suspension. Some people don't need the same amount of uptravel as they do down travel. Adding big tires at a small lift heights affords a stable COG, which will help on hill climbs, in the rocks, and most importantly during the off camber stuff.

[HOrnbrod]

I run 31s on my stockish MJ. My big advantage is using 15x8s instead of 15x7s, which help out with backspacing. It still rubs the lcas under very abnormal lock situations when turning.

 

As to why to BumpStop - Lifting a rig and adding bumpstops is perfectly normal for a properly setup suspension. Some people don't need the same amount of uptravel as they do down travel. Adding big tires at a small lift heights affords a stable COG, which will help on hill climbs, in the rocks, and most importantly during the off camber stuff.

 

Using 15x8 Ravines also, but still rubbed on the LCAs on normalsteering lock, like just turning around in the driveway. I could live with that no problemo, but the difference in handling made the WJ LCAs well worth it.

[Eagle]

I have 31/10.5/15 on my stock comanche i got alot of rub but its only when i turn sharp as it will go here's a pic of it with the 31 bfg all terain i wouldrecomend a 3in lift tho like I'm doin next weekend

I hope you realize that the 3" lift is not going to do anything to correct that rubbing on the LCAs. I had a 4" lift on the '88 MJ and the 31s rubbed on the LCAs. That was one of the reasons I decided the lift provided zero advantages, compared to several disadvantages.

[92comanche4x4]

Ok mine don't rub anymore i put it on diffrent rims today ith the same 31/10.5/15 and no rubbing thanks pete for tellin me that