Lower control arm brackets

[DirtPoor]

I am in the process of fixing the front end damage to my new to me 1992 Comanche. Last night I was spraying the upper and lower control arm mounting hardware with PB Blaster. That is when I noticed my driver side lower control arm bracket is toast. If you was going to have to drop the front axle assembly to replace the brackets, what else would you do while it is out from under your truck? Suggestions on bracket manufacturers and easy axle swaps are also appreciated. 

 

 

1992 Comanche Pioneer

4.0 Litre, 4x4, Automatic

Dana 30 Front, Dana 35 rear

[Salvagedcircuit]

If I were you, do what I just did: replace upper control arms, lower control arms and axle bushings. My upper control arms were original to my vehicle. 34 years old. My lowers were more recently replaced. Both were toast. More importantly, replace the bushings on your front axle. It is likely the original ~30 year old bushings are shot that connect to the upper control arms. They are pressed into the cast iron bumps in the top of the front axle. The original bushings, the Moog K3128 used used a strange internally dimpled design. Don't buy those. Buy the better designed bushings from the WJ: the MOOG K3166. They fit 100%. It is mentioned on many posts on naxja and here. The K3166 is better. I purchased the K3128 bushings not knowing this and drilled out the internal dimples to the next drill bit size.

I will attach some photos when I get to my camera next. The dimples are really a silly design. Removing these bushings is a a real pain, but it's worth it. You will need to rent a ball joint press tool from the local parts store. You will need the large one, since the comanche is a truck. The smaller kit is designed for people movers.

 

Another thing to mention: some folks like upgrading to the fully boxed WJ upper control arms. They are more sturdy than the comanche upper control arms, and have a larger oval shaped bushing on the end of the upper control arm that mounts to the frame. This bushing allows for more dampening against NVH (noise vibration, harshness) but your frame will need some modification to make them fit. By fully boxed I mean that the control arm is a contiguous square metal tube, not a C-channel shape like the original comanche control arms.

I opted to just use the original MJ upper control arms because I did not want to modify a bunch of things and I needed to get the comanche back up and running asap.

 

Warning: removing and installing the bushings will take a few hours. It took me 3-4 frustrating and uncomfortable hours on my back. That's with my brother as a helper.

 

My method: I used a 1/2in ratchet, some swivel joints and soaked the old bushings in PB beforehand. If I were to do it again, I'd use a larger ratchet (3/4 or 1in drive) or a battery impact on low setting to help. There is very little space on a stock height vehicle on jack stands to do the job. I did not use a car lift, but I can imagine it would have been easier.

 

Ways to speed up the process but still be safe:

1. Wire wheeling the outside of the new bushing helps with the installation. You don't lose much material and it just makes the first 10 minutes of the install go easier.
2. Wire wheel the inside of the bushing mount in the axle with a drill and rotary wire wheel. The cleaner the surface, the smoother the install.
3. The 89-90 axles had cast bushing mounts. I believe they went to a stamped steel mount in later years of the front axle. Your old bushings may be easier or harder than mine to remove. If rust has built up between the two stamped steel vertical flanges, you will have fun removing your bushings.
4. Freezing the new bushings will make them shrink by a few thousandths of an inch on the OD

 

I did not use an impact to do the job primarily because I did not want to break a tool that I did not own and I did not want to push the tool too fast, have something slip and go to the hospital. Some people use a torch and hammer the old bushing out. I did not do that. You will need a good quality ratchet. My <1yr old 1/2 drive dewalt ratchet bit the bullet. Use a 3/4 drive or a 1in drive.

Good luck!

[Pete M]

pictures of the damage?

 

[DirtPoor]

[DirtPoor]

The upper and lower control arms are bent on the passenger side. The lower control arm bracket on the driver side is rusted out but the one on the passenger side is probably bent. I have new upper and lower control arms and I am pretty sure I have the Moog K3166 bushings as well.

[Pete M]

oooohhh, the axle side.  I was thinking the body side and was wondering how on earth they got damaged.  yeah, I would get some upgraded ones and weld them on.   or better yet, a whole new axle just in case this one is damaged in ways you can't easily tell until you start driving it again.

[DirtPoor]

Look like a trip to the pull a part place is in order. Would you go ahead and replace the brackets on the used replacement axle since it is out of the vehicle or just find one with good brackets and be done?

[Pete M]

depends on the condition of the axle.  but then I no longer buy rusted things.  I've been spoiled since my family moved to GA. 

[ThatJeepGuy]

19 hours ago, DirtPoor said:

Look like a trip to the pull a part place is in order. Would you go ahead and replace the brackets on the used replacement axle since it is out of the vehicle or just find one with good brackets and be done?

 

3.55 gears in yours currently? Source a complete d30 out of a mid-later 4.0 auto XJ. 2000 and 2001 were a low pinion though so potentially not those.

 

(level of complete can be up to you. Can re-use potentially everything for the next axle: brakes, hubs, knuckles, shafts) depending on your jeeps model year It could all swap over if your stuck buying a housing.

 

Barnes4wd has lower control arm brackets for $48 part# B4WK0268

 

Ruffstuff Specialties also for $42.29 part# R2709

 

I'm not sure what a d30 pullout costs around you but for me they can be had for $100-$150. Vs the time or potentially labor if your not welding in new brackets yourself it sure would be quicker/simpler to just swap it out.

 

[DirtPoor]

Thank you again for the advice. I should have 3.55 gears according to my build sheet but I will verify before putting in another axle. The pull a part place that I go to sells complete axles for around $150 tax and all. I am wanting to get this thing in the woods this fall for deer season so I may do a simple/quick swap. This truck will be a driving project so I want to get the mechanics in good order before the body work. 

[Tex06]

Where ya located? I've got a bunch of leftover axle bits and pieces from junkyard pulls over the years. Still have my original control arms from when I went to adjustable I think. 

[DirtPoor]

I am in Bowling Green, KY. I have all new control arms. Looks like I need a front axle with good control arm brackets.

[DirtPoor]

Every bolt on this thing is fighting me. Uggg. Wondering if should source a front axle with 3.73 gears so that I could match it with a Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears, limited slip, and disc brakes. Probably should fix what I have quickly so I can get my truck on the road then swap the rear in a couple of years.

[Pete M]

yup.  rust sucks.