Odometer stopped working

[Rubikahn]

I’ve searched online and couldn’t find the fix for this. Which I am going to assume is a replacement at this point. So here’s where I’m at so far. I replaced the dummy light cluster a few months ago with a full cluster. The full cluster I bought had more miles on the odometer than my dummy cluster one did. I never bothered fixing it. The odometer has gotten stuck at 125,000 miles. It won’t go past that number. The tach works fine and so does the speedometer. My speedometer needle bounces quite a bit but I haven’t had a chance to pull it/  grease it to see if that fixes that issue. So has anyone run into this? Is it repairable or am I going to have to source a new odometer/speedometer gauge? 

[White_Comanche]

Do you still have your old cluster? You might be able to swap out just the speedo/odo gauge. That assumes it has the same gauge face style and speedo connection type.

 

If you don't, remove that gauge and see if it's binding somehow. Tip: you can "power" the speedometer gauge by using a cordless drill... find something suitable that fits into that back square hole and chuck it into a drill (I whittled down a short length of square plastic rod). You can listen for any clicks to pinpoint where the issue is.

 

On the back of the gauge there's a tiny C-Clip holding the mile number drum together. Once that's removed all the numbers can be separated and adjusted.

 

I'd say greasing your speedo cable will largely fix the needle bounce... maybe fiddle with the cable underneath to see if you can minimize any harsh curves. I recently used a product called Kable-Ease by AGS. It worked great, and is specifically designed for this application. Note: I used this on a brand new cable during my own cluster swap... and didn't just squeeze it down the hole. 1) I straightened the new cable out on clean hard flooring, 2) drew out the long metal line, 3) applied an even coat while wearing latex gloves.

[Rubikahn]

1 hour ago, White_Comanche said:

Do you still have your old cluster? You might be able to swap out just the speedo/odo gauge. That assumes it has the same gauge face style and speedo connection type.

 

If you don't, remove that gauge and see if it's binding somehow. Tip: you can "power" the speedometer gauge by using a cordless drill... find something suitable that fits into that back square hole and chuck it into a drill (I whittled down a short length of square plastic rod). You can listen for any clicks to pinpoint where the issue is.

 

On the back of the gauge there's a tiny C-Clip holding the mile number drum together. Once that's removed all the numbers can be separated and adjusted.

 

I'd say greasing your speedo cable will largely fix the needle bounce... maybe fiddle with the cable underneath to see if you can minimize any harsh curves. I recently used a product called Kable-Ease by AGS. It worked great, and is specifically designed for this application. Note: I used this on a brand new cable during my own cluster swap... and didn't just squeeze it down the hole. 1) I straightened the new cable out on clean hard flooring, 2) drew out the long metal line, 3) applied an even coat while wearing latex gloves.

I do still have the dummy cluster but the gauge face is a different color scheme. I’ll try pulling out the full cluster one and see if I can figure out what is going on with it. I found that lube on Amazon. I’ll be ordering that for the speedo cable, Ty

[Eagle_SX4]

When I bought my Comanche the odometer was seized up. Drove it home and watched the tenths roll around but never change the mileage. I pulled the cluster out and removed the speedometer. I wiggled the numbers around and they all freed up and is still working great. I have put about 15,000 miles on since then.

[White_Comanche]

30 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

I wiggled the numbers around and they all freed up...

This is great to know.

 

One thing I'll add is be sure that all the odometer numbers L-I-N-E-U-P. I made the mistake of closing up my dash after a cluster swap while my numbers looked like this. While driving the first mile wheel turned in a screwy way. Ended up pulling the gauge out again to align all the numbers. Now the odometer works as it should.

 

 

 

15 hours ago, Rubikahn said:

I found that lube on Amazon. I’ll be ordering that for the speedo cable

For Kable-Ease I'd recommend sealing the tube in a small plastic bag after use. My toolbox was a mess after it leaked. The lubricant is not easy to clean up either. The tube has one of those screw caps where it needs to be 110% tight for it to not leak.

[Rubikahn]

Thanks guys! I’ll see what happens when I pull the gauge out. As far as the lube going in a ziploc, I’m there with you on that. I do the same thing with Antiseize  lol