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Lug nut torque specs


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So upon entering my driveway this morning I noticed my wheel was wobbly. Sure enough, the lugs had come loose on it. I had taken it to my mechanic yesterday to have my drum brakes looked at and maybe they just forgot to torque it back down to spec (which I think is unlikely though). The only other thing I could think of was that I overtorqued them after working on my drums with my impact gun and NOT in the star pattern. Regardless, I hand tightened them and then torqued them all to 94 lb-ft once the wheel was on the ground. Is this an ok amount or should I torque it higher? Really don't want my wheel to come off on the highway......

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Factory spec has changed dramatically over the years.

 

1988 ==> 75 ft. lbs.

1994 ==> 80 - 110 ft. lbs.

2000 ==> 85 - 115 ft. lbs.

 

I use anti-seize on my wheel lugs, which calls for reducing the torque by 20% to 25%. I've been torquing to 90 ft. lbs. for decades and never had a problem.

 

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Sounds to me like the mechanic didn't torque them.

 

I usually don't share this because of comments I get, but I've been torquing the lug nuts on my CJ7 with 35" tires to 65 ft lbs for over 22 years, and never had a problem on or off road.  I currently use a light coat of Tef-Gel anti-seize compound, and I use a torque wrench religiously, with the correct tightening pattern, and run the pattern twice per wheel.

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65 foot-pounds with anti-seize is roughly equal to 80 to 85 foot-pounds with clean, dry threads. That's within spec.

 

I also use a torque wrench. In fact, I carry a spare click-release torque wrench in my vehicles in case I need to change a flat on the road.

 

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20 minutes ago, zomeizter said:

Does a light coat of WD40/liquid wrench count as anti-seize?

 

No, because it'll be evaporated within a month, and useless after a year or five.

 

It is a lubricant, though, so the torque values should be reduced.

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