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Stuck drum brakes


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Drum is wiggling but I can't get it completely off. I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow to get 8x1.25 bolts to put into those holes on the face of the drum. If anyone has done this before, is that the right size bolt or is it different? Not sure the brand of drum on there

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Is it stuck in the center?  If so sanding and PB blaster can help.

If it's not the center, I've had a worn drum stuck before where a lip formed inside the drum so the brake shoe was holding it up.  I had to adjust the brakes (loosen) and then it came off.

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1 hour ago, oldmanche said:

Is it stuck in the center?  If so sanding and PB blaster can help.

If it's not the center, I've had a worn drum stuck before where a lip formed inside the drum so the brake shoe was holding it up.  I had to adjust the brakes (loosen) and then it came off.

it feels like its stuck at the top, I can wiggle it on both sides where the brake shoes are and the bottom as well (even after rotating the wheel). I've sprayed PB blaster in all the holes and hammered away at it as well. Parking brake is broken so i know it's not even engaged

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The only thing that holds the top part of the shoe to the backing plate is going to be a sort of "diamond shaped" retaining plate that is slipped over the top of the upper shoe anchor stud on the backing plate.   That retaining plate is, in turn, captured on the anchor stud by the upper shoe return springs.   There is no way to get those upper return springs off with the drum in place.    

 

Here is my suggestion:   There is a shoe retaining stud/spring assembly that holds the shoe to the backing plate.   The head end of this stud pokes out through a hole in the backing plate.  If you can cut/grind or otherwise break the head of the stud off the back side of the backing plate, then the shoe (and the drum) can move further out (with prying) and then maybe you can start taking the adjuster assembly out through the gap between the bottom of the drum and the backing plate.

 

Once the adjuster is out, the shoes can collapse inward further, and make getting the drum off easier.

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On 8/2/2022 at 10:45 AM, Pete M said:

another option is a disk-braked 8.25 from a Liberty. :D  fixes those drums for good!  :laugh:

That's true, Pete.  However, he still needs to get all the hardware off the end of the axle to do any rebuild or upgrade of the rear brakes.

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6 hours ago, Pete M said:

no, I mean swap the entire 8.25 and be done with it.  :L: 

funny you mentioned this because someone with an SOA 8.25 with 3.55 gears already on a comanche is selling it for $150. Is that a good price for it? I've never bought an axle so idk how their supposed to be valued

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On 8/2/2022 at 1:39 PM, AZJeff said:

The only thing that holds the top part of the shoe to the backing plate is going to be a sort of "diamond shaped" retaining plate that is slipped over the top of the upper shoe anchor stud on the backing plate.   That retaining plate is, in turn, captured on the anchor stud by the upper shoe return springs.   There is no way to get those upper return springs off with the drum in place.    

 

Here is my suggestion:   There is a shoe retaining stud/spring assembly that holds the shoe to the backing plate.   The head end of this stud pokes out through a hole in the backing plate.  If you can cut/grind or otherwise break the head of the stud off the back side of the backing plate, then the shoe (and the drum) can move further out (with prying) and then maybe you can start taking the adjuster assembly out through the gap between the bottom of the drum and the backing plate.

 

Once the adjuster is out, the shoes can collapse inward further, and make getting the drum off easier.

So I was able to get it off by slamming it with an 8 lb sledge after letting PB blaster sit in it for 15 mins. Now looking at the brake shoe, I see that on the right one there's like a quarter of the pad missing. Nothing fell off it with the drum. Is that normal or should I replace it asap?

dddddd.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Pete M said:

150 is a decent price.  but XJ perches aren't in the right spot.  and they didn't come with disks. 

What I'm saying is someone already did the modification to make it fit under a comanche. However, I can't tell if its a disc or drum from the picture so I'll send the seller a message.

 

It's also on a long bed if that makes any difference. I have a short bed.

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5 minutes ago, Pete M said:

yes, but did they move the perches?  or just force the XJ ones to fit with a crowbar? 

 

bed length won't matter. :L: 

Seller just messaged me back and it has drums so it's the XJ axle. This is the only picture he posted, I can't tell if they're welded in the right spot

IMG-1642.jpg

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honestly I would pass on that.  3.55s aren't enough gearing for the big tires anyways.  Liberty axles are plentiful at the moment and will have 3.73 gears.  TJ and ZJ front axles are usually 3.73 too. 

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The "leading" shoe of a drum brake system (the one towards the front of the vehicle) is ALWAYS smaller than the "trailing" shoe.  What you found is perfectly normal.

 

When I studied brake systems in college as part of my mechanical engr. degree, we were taught that drums brakes are designed to be "self energizing," meaning that once the shoe contacts the drum, the frictional forces tend to actual encourage the shoe to pull tightly agains the drum surface, and maintain the frictional bond.

 

If and when you install new shoes, make sure that the shoe with the smaller/shorter arc of friction material in located on the FRONT side of the assembly.

 

BTW, based on the one photo you provided, your brake hardware (springs, brackets, etc.) look pretty decent.  A new set of shoes, and a properly turned (or replaced) brake drum will restore your service brakes to original condition.

 

If your parking brake is non functional, you will need to replace the cables, etc. regardless of whether you restore your drum brake system or replace it with the disc setup off an Liberty or similar.

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9 hours ago, AZJeff said:

The "leading" shoe of a drum brake system (the one towards the front of the vehicle) is ALWAYS smaller than the "trailing" shoe.  What you found is perfectly normal.

 

Good to know. I have all the new lines to fix the parking brake, but it's nice that the other components are still in good shape. When I take everything apart I'll clean them up before I put them back in

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On 8/4/2022 at 9:02 AM, yungupgrade said:

Good to know. I have all the new lines to fix the parking brake, but it's nice that the other components are still in good shape. When I take everything apart I'll clean them up before I put them back in

 

Do one side at a time. The star wheel adjusters are different for the left and right side. If you get them mixed up, the self-adjusters (which don't work all that well anyway) won't work at all. And take your drums to a shop and have the ridge inside machined off.

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